Starter issues
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From: El Paso, TX
Starter issues
My 1991 ranger was purchased used from an old mechanic. He installed a button to start the ranger when the key turn fails. The key turn works mostly on cold days, but when it gets warm, the key turn does not start the vehicle. Is it worth trying to figure out the electrical problem, or because the push button always works, should I just leave it be. Thanks!
That is a strange one
What engine and manual or automatic ?
It might matter for this
And what happens when its warm?
Do you get a "click" or multiple "clicks" when you turn the key to START
Or is there no noise and starter motor never turns
The ignition switch(under the steering column) is the same as the push button, when you turn the key to START it closes 2 contacts(like a button) and sends 12volts to starter motor to activate solenoid.
What engine and manual or automatic ?
It might matter for this
And what happens when its warm?
Do you get a "click" or multiple "clicks" when you turn the key to START
Or is there no noise and starter motor never turns
The ignition switch(under the steering column) is the same as the push button, when you turn the key to START it closes 2 contacts(like a button) and sends 12volts to starter motor to activate solenoid.
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Joined: Jan 2018
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From: El Paso, TX
It is a 4.0 6 cyl. When it is warm, I turn the key to start and it seems like I loose electrical to the vehicle. In the run, I have electrical on the indicators on the dash. I saw some wires in the engine compartment that had become exposed due to the age of the truck, so I used liquid electrical tape to seal those, I am thinking it may be a short somewhere.
Those wires got hot, not from exposure there was a major short at some time in the past to cause that damage.
In 1991 Red/blue stripe wire is the starter activation wire
It runs from Clutch Switch(or NSS on automatic) to starter relay
The green wire he spliced into does ring any bells with me
In 1991 Red/blue stripe wire is the starter activation wire
It runs from Clutch Switch(or NSS on automatic) to starter relay
The green wire he spliced into does ring any bells with me
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Joined: Jan 2018
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From: El Paso, TX
I wondered what could have caused that damage to the wires.
I have noticed sometimes if I hold the key on start and move the clutch out then in, the truck sometimes starts.
Could i I somehow isolate the clutch switch to see if that is the issue? I am not comfortable with electrical, but seems like that is a reasonable explanation. Thanks RonD!
I have noticed sometimes if I hold the key on start and move the clutch out then in, the truck sometimes starts.
Could i I somehow isolate the clutch switch to see if that is the issue? I am not comfortable with electrical, but seems like that is a reasonable explanation. Thanks RonD!
It's a fairly common issue on Fords, failed clutch switch, so would be surprised a "mechanic" would bother with a push button to fix it, much easier ways to bypass it
Google: ford ranger clutch switch bypass images
Clutch switch is clamped on to the pedal's push rod
You can remove tab on the top to pull it off, or you can just unplug the wire connector
It has a button on the end that faces the pedal
When you press the pedal to the floor that button is pressed in and that connects ignition switch to starter motor, so the 12volts can pass thru to activate starter.
Switch also tells computer vehicle is in "neutral", engine is disengaged from transmission.
This limits RPMs to 3,000, and allows shifting into 4Low in 4WD vehicles.
Thats what the extra wires are for.
Google: ford ranger clutch switch bypass images
Clutch switch is clamped on to the pedal's push rod
You can remove tab on the top to pull it off, or you can just unplug the wire connector
It has a button on the end that faces the pedal
When you press the pedal to the floor that button is pressed in and that connects ignition switch to starter motor, so the 12volts can pass thru to activate starter.
Switch also tells computer vehicle is in "neutral", engine is disengaged from transmission.
This limits RPMs to 3,000, and allows shifting into 4Low in 4WD vehicles.
Thats what the extra wires are for.
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Joined: Jan 2018
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From: El Paso, TX
I just looked at the clutch switch, and all the wires are black. Everything I saw on videos online, there should be a pink wire. Should I just go off the position of the wires and join the two closest to the firewall or should I assume this is not the problem as it appears to be a newer wire harness.
Also, as for the “mechanic,” when I bought it, I trusted it was in good shape because I met him at his shop. I immediately found many problems after I drove it for a week, to include a cracked water pump and radiator fan, leaking front diff seals, leaking oil sensor, and the entire front steering assembly was shot. All that to say, I have learned a lot about diy repairs!
Also, as for the “mechanic,” when I bought it, I trusted it was in good shape because I met him at his shop. I immediately found many problems after I drove it for a week, to include a cracked water pump and radiator fan, leaking front diff seals, leaking oil sensor, and the entire front steering assembly was shot. All that to say, I have learned a lot about diy repairs!
Yes, there should be a pink wire for sure.
Diagram at this site: https://www.justanswer.com/ford/4ik1...-3-manual.html
Ford never really change the wire colors on these much
Hooking #6 and #5 together would by pass this switch as far as starter motor is concerned
Diagram at this site: https://www.justanswer.com/ford/4ik1...-3-manual.html
Ford never really change the wire colors on these much
Hooking #6 and #5 together would by pass this switch as far as starter motor is concerned
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