Howdy,

I have 1995 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L V-6 with manual 5 OD speed w/ 4X4 which i dreamed to own and I finally found one!

Recently the steering ignition was replaced with aftermarket ignition assembly key ... Dorman i assumed so ... it was there when I bought the truck ... sadly it spin and turned on me after i put in new battery and attempted to start it twice. so I figured okay bad ignition key follow instructions to put in an NEW Motorcraft ignition key and guess what? It didn't work this time. when I reconnected the battery it was in start position as all lights on dash board lighted up and it would allow engine to turn over and it refused to shut off and steering wheel wouldn't locked up like it supposed it too. Therefore i killed the motor to allow suddenly jump the clutch too stall it and remove one of terminals to prevent battery drain ... ladies and gentlemen I WAS furious cuz i just bought new ignition key assembly Sunday and it arrived today at work I installed it with instructions with no luck!

What's the fix and hopefully it will work then? and WHICH Motorcraft letter key is right for my truck? There what I seen Letter A - E as it offered for various prices $22 - $50 bucks any suggestion?

Thank you for your input - was one pissed off guy

 

As bad as I hate to say it,,, sometimes you just have to pay somebody that knows what they're doing to fix it. Like transmissions, i hate paying to have that kind of work done...

​​​​​​​You may need someone with a key programmer - ?

 

1995 would not have the PATs system, just a basic ignition system. No transponder keys that requiring programming until 98/99 models.

Im having a hard time understanding what's going on here though, did you replace the actual ignition lock cylinder or just try to buy a new key?

 

The key cylinder on the steering column hooks to an Actuator Rod that runs down inside the steering column to the Ignition Switch which is just above the brake pedal on the underside of the steering column.
When you turn the key the Rod slides the Ignition Switch into its 4 positions, ACC, OFF/Lock, RUN, START

In ACC or LOCK the upper end of the Rod pushes Locking Pin up into holes in the steering wheel to Lock it from turning

Google: 1995 ford ranger ignition switch actuator rod

Year doesn't matter too much or even Model, Ford used the same system for many many years

You may just have cylinder in the wrong position so it isn't lined up with actuator rod