Troubleshooting horn
#1
Troubleshooting horn
Hi,
Hoping to get some help on troubleshooting the horn in my 2001 Ranger. Neither the horn nor the airbag are working, and they haven't been for a while. However, there is no light indicating any problems with the airbag.
Steps I have taken:
1. Replaced the clockspring today. It's possible that I screwed this up but it was pretty straightforward so it seems unlikely.
2. Checked the fuse visually, looks fine.
3. Swapped the relay (located by the gas pedal) with an adjacent one, still nothing.
4. Pulled out one of the two horns (the other looks like I will need to take off the valence/grill to reach, which I can do its just a PITA so I haven't done it yet).
Things I may still want to try (?)
1. Test the fuse with a multimeter.
2. Test relay with battery/multimeter.
3. Attempt to manually trigger/override the relay to see if the problem is upstream from the relay (i.e., either I did screw up the clockspring or somehow the horn switch isn't working).
Can anyone explain how I might go about doing #3? And if possible, explain it to me like I'm an idiot because electrical stuff is still pretty complicated for me.
Additionally, are there any other steps I can take to troubleshoot?
I appreciate any insight you may have.
Hoping to get some help on troubleshooting the horn in my 2001 Ranger. Neither the horn nor the airbag are working, and they haven't been for a while. However, there is no light indicating any problems with the airbag.
Steps I have taken:
1. Replaced the clockspring today. It's possible that I screwed this up but it was pretty straightforward so it seems unlikely.
2. Checked the fuse visually, looks fine.
3. Swapped the relay (located by the gas pedal) with an adjacent one, still nothing.
4. Pulled out one of the two horns (the other looks like I will need to take off the valence/grill to reach, which I can do its just a PITA so I haven't done it yet).
Things I may still want to try (?)
1. Test the fuse with a multimeter.
2. Test relay with battery/multimeter.
3. Attempt to manually trigger/override the relay to see if the problem is upstream from the relay (i.e., either I did screw up the clockspring or somehow the horn switch isn't working).
Can anyone explain how I might go about doing #3? And if possible, explain it to me like I'm an idiot because electrical stuff is still pretty complicated for me.
Additionally, are there any other steps I can take to troubleshoot?
I appreciate any insight you may have.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
2001 Ranger
Fuse #35 in cab fuse box is for the horn Relay
Horn relay has power all the time, not a "key on" circuit, so after you pull out the fuse test its contacts, one should have 12volts(key off or on)
The horn "button" on the steering wheel is a GROUND for the Horn Relay
Relay should be a "Micro Relay" version, so pins look like this: https://www.troublecodes.net/wp-cont...lay-wiring.jpg
Relays are used so you can control higher AMP circuits with lower amp wiring
The wiring in the clockspring is smaller wires so they would melt if you tried to power the 8 amp horn thru those wires, so they use a relay
In the diagram pins 85 and 86 are for the relay's coil inside, if one pin is 12volt and the other a GROUND then the coil becomes an electromagnet, this pulls down the metal ARM inside the relay which connects pins 30 and 87, and this sends the 8 amps 12volts to the horn
Doesn't matter which pin is + and - for 85 and 86 as long as one is + and the other connects to the horn "button" which GROUNDS it when button is pressed
And doesn't matter if pin 30 or pin 87 is connected to Fuse #35, and the other connected to the horn, when relay is "activated" 30 and 87 connect and horn should sound
So it you remove the relay and use a Jumper wire between 30 and 87 SLOTS the horn should sound, if fuse #35 is OK
If no horn then horn is bad or wire from relay to horn is
If horn sounds then problem is the button is not GROUNDING the relay's coil
You can use volt meter on the SLOTS
30 or 87 should show 12v all the time, thats from Fuse #35, other one is to the horn
85 or 86 should also have 12v all the time(also from fuse #35) and the other will be the GROUND from the button
Fuse #35 in cab fuse box is for the horn Relay
Horn relay has power all the time, not a "key on" circuit, so after you pull out the fuse test its contacts, one should have 12volts(key off or on)
The horn "button" on the steering wheel is a GROUND for the Horn Relay
Relay should be a "Micro Relay" version, so pins look like this: https://www.troublecodes.net/wp-cont...lay-wiring.jpg
Relays are used so you can control higher AMP circuits with lower amp wiring
The wiring in the clockspring is smaller wires so they would melt if you tried to power the 8 amp horn thru those wires, so they use a relay
In the diagram pins 85 and 86 are for the relay's coil inside, if one pin is 12volt and the other a GROUND then the coil becomes an electromagnet, this pulls down the metal ARM inside the relay which connects pins 30 and 87, and this sends the 8 amps 12volts to the horn
Doesn't matter which pin is + and - for 85 and 86 as long as one is + and the other connects to the horn "button" which GROUNDS it when button is pressed
And doesn't matter if pin 30 or pin 87 is connected to Fuse #35, and the other connected to the horn, when relay is "activated" 30 and 87 connect and horn should sound
So it you remove the relay and use a Jumper wire between 30 and 87 SLOTS the horn should sound, if fuse #35 is OK
If no horn then horn is bad or wire from relay to horn is
If horn sounds then problem is the button is not GROUNDING the relay's coil
You can use volt meter on the SLOTS
30 or 87 should show 12v all the time, thats from Fuse #35, other one is to the horn
85 or 86 should also have 12v all the time(also from fuse #35) and the other will be the GROUND from the button
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