1994 Ford Ranger XLT extended cab, V6 4.0-liter engine, automatic transmission, 4-wheel drive, tilt wheel, cruise control



For several years, the ignition key did not line up properly when I shut off the ignition and the key chime would ring.

I would have to re-insert the key and monkey around with the lock cylinder key twist assist *** to get the key to lineup.

Today the engine stalled out and I went to restart it.

The starter would crank but the engine wouldn't turn over due to lack of ignition spark.

I let the battery charge and let the truck rest for a while, you know leave it alone come back, and then it'll start. LOL.

Came back and tried it and it still wouldn't crank over.

The next good news was that the starter wouldn't crank the next time I turn the key.

When I tried it again all the gauges pegged, and everything was dead except for the check engine light.

I removed the key, and the check engine light was still on at which time I disconnected the battery and came to the computer.

I am thinking that when I turn the key in the lock cylinder it is not making proper contact and sending voltage down to the ignition relay.

Any idea how far off I am on my conclusion or have I hit the proverbial nail on the head?

 

Welcome to the forum

The ignition switch is under the steering column above brake pedal
The key slides a rod inside the column when you turn it, that moves/slides the ignition switch into its 4 positions, ACC, OFF, RUN, START

Simplified drawing of that here: https://www.2carpros.com/forum/autom...berretta_1.jpg
You can also see how it Locks the steering wheel

Ignition switch, under steering column, looks like this: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KK2uO_xaDKA/maxresdefault.jpg
When you turn the key the actuator rod slides that pin into one of the 4 positions
You can pull out that switch and plug back in its connector, and then manually move it into its 4 positions, to see if its working or not


Just FYI, the "key in ignition" beeper IS on the key cylinder, not part of ignition system, just a ground wire

You can also remove the key cylinder, and then use a screwdriver in the slot inside to turn it to move the actuator rod and slide ignition switch into its 4 positions
If that seems to work OK then replace the cylinder, any locksmith can "re-pin" it to match your current key, or you can use the keys that come with new cylinder, they just won't match the door locks

 

Thanks for the info, I replaced the switch.

Not that big of a job, but it didn't fix the problem.
It would turn over, but it wouldn't start.

Just to see where I stood, I sprayed some starter fluid through the throttle body, and it fired up.

Of course, it wouldn't stay running so I decided to check the fuel pump relay.

I pulled the relay out and then turn the key to the run position.

I reinserted the relay and did not feel or hear any movement from the relay.

The next move was to put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail Schrader valve.

The truck was down in the lower part of the yard, so I decided to get some help and pull it up to the shop.

The help couldn't make it until Monday afternoon, so I started cleaning up and putting things away.

The key was still in the ignition, so I went to take it out and had a little trouble, so I bumped it all the way over to the start position and turned it back to the off position to take it out when I notice that the truck had started.

I said WTF to myself, is what happened what I think just happened?

I turned the key again in the truck started up.

I don't know if pulling the relay out and putting it back did anything or if the engine turning over from the starting fluid did something, but it ran long enough for me to clean up and put it up at the shop.

I'm still gonna give the system a good looking over to see if there's something that's not connected properly and put the meter on to check all of the connections for proper voltage.

It may just be a one-time malfunction but I'm not going to chance it, the truck must be dependable.