UPDATE!!! please because same thing was just about to happen to me yesterday and now my electrical is fried ... im PISSED

Details?

Pics?

yea Travis....where do you stand with the controller company?

both plz and where you stand

l2en humm you there ?

I have read every post on these four pages.

1-Yes, the fuse should be within 6" of the battery post or what ever it is using for a supply.

2-If the company didn't have the fuse that way in the wiring or if the wire could be reversed when installed they made a mistake.

HOWEVER, there is a problem that is not being addressed.

THE WIRE RUBBED AND SHORTED OUT. What did it rub against. If you don't keep it from rubbing it will short again. The fact that the wire shorted out is not the fault of the maker of the accessory, it is the fault of the installer. Had the fuse been by the battery it may have saved the accessory or wiring.

Questions:

1-If the wire shorted the wire should have been burned the entire length to the battery or burned in two at that point. Was it?

2-Is the "controller" located between the shorted spot and the battery?


Attention: A plastic wire tie will not cause wires to get hot. The only thing that will cause a wire to get hot is amperage going through the wire. The higher the amperage, the hotter the wire will get. If a wire gets hot it will transfer the heat to other wires where they have a tie but the tie didn't cause the heat.

Well stated, Carl.

LOL!!! Well if you're really interested in what burned then um....check this link...... https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=26590

Thanks for making me relive that day =[

So much for closure :sorry:

:puppy_dog arrrrggggggg, it's hard to believe how much damage that shorted wire caused. Usually the wire shorts and burns in two. Maybe it sat there drawing the battery down and finally started the fire with the heat and sparks.

Are they going to replace the truck or just give book value?

Where does everything stand now?

You understand Efan and Ultima are going to say, "shorted wire not our fault", don't you.

It sounds like the ins. co. is trying to wiggle out of the middle of the fight. Are they going to pay and then seek recourse?

Well, I owed almost $8k on the truck when it burnt. It was deemed a total loss. I was cut a check for almost $19k (less my $500 deductable) so I got $11k after the loan payoff. Which pretty much paid for the truck I have now in full. It took a solid month of NONSTOP phone calls to the insurance company and a lawyer but I squeezed them for every dime I could until they wouldn't go any higher on the settlement. I kind of made out considering I didn't have add-on insurance, covering aftermarket stuff. Anything that was 'non-removable from the truck' was put into the settlement after constant b1tching. I had a buddy who had his own paint/tint/customizing shop that made me up receipts for all the work he did and work he helped me with. All legitamite receipts and what not but I fought them for EVERY penny. lol

Optima sent out a forensic guy (before my insurance company lol) who determined it was the efan controller and not the battery. Then my insurance company, esurance, sent an independent forensic guy two weeks later who also determined the cause as the faulty controller AND misplacement of the fuse from the manufacturer.

They told me I wouldn't have the option to buy back the truck since they were totalling it and it was being sent to a 'dealer only' auction. At that point I stripped the truck. I didn't let them pick up the truck from my driveway until I received the settlement check and it was cashed.

I recieved a call from a lawyer representing esurance about two months ago stating that they are beginning the legal action against the fan controller company, TorqFlo. I told them that I really didn't care seeing as I got my money and if they received anything from them then MAYBE I'd be entitled to a refund on my $500 deposit. I still have all the fried wiring, controller, and fan that they told me to save for evidence. I told them that they could have it once I got my $500 back =]

I haven't heard from them since :shrug:

End of story......for now I guess.

Man, sounds like you used everything except the thumb screws and the rack. I'm glad you came out ok and with another truck. I was thinking they would throw you against the way for the shorted wire.

I wasn't aware we had to have insurance for add-on's. I'll have to check with my insurance co. I carry liability comprehensive and collision on the Camery and the Ranger and just liability and comprehensive on the Aerostar.

I would like to install factory fog lights in my 09 XLT

Ford doesn't list a kit.

Anybody done this?

I have seen parts for the lights, bracket & connector, headlight switch, fog light switch, central dash pannel, but no wireing harness.

Thanks in advance for any help

Richard

i think you need to start your own thread, im just sayin! lol

Its possible the zip tie could have eaten through the wire and then the wire grounded itself. I had the same thing happen before, I ziptied the wire to something, and it ate through the plastic coating of the wire. Luckily the fuse worked in that situation.
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My ranger is uses a viscous clutch fan(I mean, mechanically driven). How do I convert it to an electric fan?
thanks

Electric Fan
 

Flex-a-Light used to have a kit to fit our Rangers, not sure what years they cover