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Old 03-05-2006
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Wiring Lights...Need some advice

Ok guys,

I just recieved 3 6" 100 watt procomp chrome lights along with the dual heavy duty wiring kit from procomp. Everything looks great and ive been trying to determine exactly how im going to do the wiring. The kit came with a big dual rocker switch which is supposed to be for 4 lights, 2 on one switch and 2 on the other. well, im only going to run 3 lights and would like it alot better if all three were on the same switch. it looks like the switches are 20amps each, so if i go get a single switch thats around 30-40amps will it be able to control all 3 lights? also, the kit came with 2 relays. same situation, 2 lights on one and 1 on the other. would it be ok running 2 relays into one switch? And the last question for now would be where is the easiest place to run wires through the engine bay to the inside of the cab? i was looking at this grommet thing and thought maybe it would be the best place? does anybody who has wired there own offroading lights have any advice or suggestions? thanks alot guys!
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Old 03-05-2006
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there is a gromit right under the brake booster its all alone about 1"-2" wide thats the best place to run wires and here is a good wiring diagram
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Old 03-05-2006
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thanks alot, yeah, thats the grommet that i was talking about. just wanted to varify. thank for the diagram, i actually just saw that earlier in a different post. Anyone else?
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Old 03-05-2006
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you can hook all three up to the same relay as long as the relay can handle it. if your running 300 watts, you pulling about 21 amps (14 volts), so if they are 30 amp relays, you should be good.

all of your power is going through the relay, not the switch. you will only have a few milliamps running through the switch to activate the relay.

i am running 4 of those lights on my roll bar and i have them all tied into a 50 amp relay so i have enough if i want to put 130 watt bulbs in later.
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Old 03-05-2006
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they are 40amp relays. so with just one of these relays i should be able to run all 3 100watt lights? And just one switch? somebody please correct me if im wrong? does anybody else have anything to say about this?
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Old 03-05-2006
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yes you will be fine i have 2 150w lights on one 40amp relay...
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Old 03-05-2006
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You can run 300W of lighting through a single 40A relay on a 12V system, no problem. Just be sure that the wire gauge is adequate and size the fuse to protect the wiring.

http://www.kb1fpd.com/Wire-Gauge.pdf
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Old 03-05-2006
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ok good,

that helps me out alot. well now im going to have to pick up a new single switch thats smaller and look alot better too. the dual switch that came in the kit is huge and ugly... now about the wire, im using the heavy duty kit from procomp. the wire is all the same size, im guessing its 16-14 gauge wire. so do you think that all three of these lights spliced to the same relay and switch will be ok using all of the same size wire?
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Old 03-05-2006
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personally i use like 12g on mine
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Old 03-07-2006
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ok, i have everything figured out. Yes im using 12 gauge for the wire. I simpilfied the problem. Instead of using that big dual rocker switch i bought one 30amp led switch for controlling all 3 lights at the same time. I will only be using one of the 40amp relays as well. I plan on having the middle light on a quick disconnect so that when i want only two lights i can simply snap it off of the connection. Now here are some more questions. I plan on mounting the switch my the radio. How do i remove the radio bezel? the black housing around the entire consol? I think im going to drill a hole right about the first cigarrette lighter and tap into that power source for the switch... does that sound ok? Now about running the wires through that little grommet...do i have to poke a small hole through it to run the wires through? or is there a way to just simply stick them through? i was trying to push on it to see but im confused on exactly how to get the wires through that? Last question, about mounting the relay... where is the best place to mount that little guy that will keep it safe and out of the way? can water damage it? is there a way of mounting it inside the existing fuse box? thanks for all of your help!!!!

Thanks again
Josh
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Old 03-07-2006
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The cigarette lighter is powered at all times and protected by a 20A fuse. So, it's not a good choice for the relay coil power (never shuts off) and it won't work to power the lights (not enough capacity).

A lot of people just poke a hole in the grommet to fish wires through. I would add a drop of silicone seal to reseal it after pulling the wires.

The radio bezel is held on by two small screws above the HVAC controls and some push clips at the top. You can either remove the radio first with the special removal tools or you can take the radio out together with the bezel. Either way works fine.

The relay can be mounted under the hood. Mount it where it won't get hit with direct splash, make sure that the terminals face down and keep it away from the exhaust manifolds. Other than that anywhere should be OK. I would put it near the Fuse/Relay/Distribution Box because that area is fairly well shielded fom road spray.

If you can get a relay socket, it will be easier to wire and may be more reliable. A dab of dielectric compound on the terminals will help prevent corrosion.
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Old 03-07-2006
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the supply wire to high low ign is that for the high low beams? or where would you hook that up
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Old 03-07-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tideguyinva
the supply wire to high low ign is that for the high low beams? or where would you hook that up
It's your choice of trigger for the relay: High beam, Low beam or Ignition on. It all depends on the conditions when you want your relay-controlled lights to operate.

Factory fog lamps usually operate only with the low beams.
Auxiliary driving lights are sometimes wired to come on only with the high beams.
Aux reverse lights might be wired to operate any time when the ignition is on.
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Old 03-07-2006
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gotcha
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Old 03-07-2006
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ok, the only reason that i want to tap into the cigarrette lighter is to power the LED on the switch. I dunno what you are talking about. The relay is going to be directly connected to the battery. that is where the power will be coming from to power the lights. The switch needs just a few amps to power the small led on the switch itself, therefor it would be adequate to use the cig lighter. All the switch is for is to power the relay on and off. very simple. look at that diagram above...
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Old 03-08-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jawx
Wiring Lights...Need some advice
Quote:
Originally Posted by jawx
ok, the only reason that i want to tap into the cigarrette lighter is to power the LED on the switch. I dunno what you are talking about. The relay is going to be directly connected to the battery. that is where the power will be coming from to power the lights. The switch needs just a few amps to power the small led on the switch itself, therefor it would be adequate to use the cig lighter. All the switch is for is to power the relay on and off. very simple. look at that diagram above...
The relay coil and LED draw less than an amp. BUT, if you wire it to the cigarette lighter circuit (ALWAYS hot), you will have to remember to turn the aux lighting switch off separately, even after the ignition and headlights are turned off.

I certainly wouldn't do it that way but if that's what you want, go for it. Sorry to bother you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jawx
I think im going to drill a hole right about the first cigarrette lighter and tap into that power source for the switch... does that sound ok?
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  #17  
Old 03-08-2006
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look man, im sorry. i apologize for snapping and being rude. i appreciate your help and your contribution to this thread. you are the first one who has said that to me though and i was like wait is that right? because this whole time ive had it in my head that everything would work. I do understand what you mean about the lights having to be turned off separately, because that wire is always hot. I kind of like that though. because i will not have to have the vehicle running if i want to switch them on for a sec. Where would you suggest wiring the switch too instead of here? thanks again for you help.
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  #18  
Old 03-09-2006
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rwenzing, i apologized bro, im just waiting on a response! Can anyone help me? its fairly simple if you ask me, i want everyones opinion on best/easiest spot for mounting a switch and best power source to tap into! THANKS
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Old 03-09-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jawx
rwenzing, i apologized bro, im just waiting on a response! Can anyone help me? its fairly simple if you ask me, i want everyones opinion on best/easiest spot for mounting a switch and best power source to tap into! THANKS
It depends on when you want to allow the light switch to work.


With high beams only:
Tap the gray/orange wire in the harness on the DS of the steering column.

With high beams, low beams or parking lights:
Tap the solid brown wire in the brown connector at the Smart Junction Box.

Any time the ignition switch is in the RUN or ACC positions:
tap the black/pink at the audio harness.


Switch options
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=16298
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=12189
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  #20  
Old 03-09-2006
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awsome. thanks alot bro. Yeah, i would actually like them to be able to come on whenever i want. im thinking about wiring them to an always hot wire but i dunno yet. maybe i will just wire them to the ignition wire in the radio harness because that way i wont have to worry about them draining the battery when the truck is off.
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