How-To: 98-03 Cruise Control Install - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 12-22-2008
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How-To: 98-03 Cruise Control Install

This only applies to 98-03 Rangers that are prewired for cruise.

Let me first start by saying that all knowledge and everything else in this thread, i owe to Bob (rwenzing). He is an absolute genius and this project wouldn't be possible without his input.

I have a 1998 Ranger XL and it does not have cruise, I love cruise control and i missed it ever since i bought this truck. I talked to Bob about adding it and it can be done.

Here are the parts you will need, this applies to 98-03 Rangers according to the parts guy at the Ford dealership I work at

Steering wheel buttons: F87A-9D809-BA
Cruise control servo: XL2F-9C734-AA
Clockspring: F87Z-14A664-CC
3.0 servo cable (engine specific):
steering wheel trim panel with cutouts for cruise buttons

How To: 99-03 Cruise Control

1. Disconnect both battery terminals
2. Make sure the steering wheel is straight
3. Remove air bag round trim covers on the sides of the steering wheel with a pocket screw driver
4. Remove two 8mm bolts that hold the air bag on place and unplug the wires from it
5. Set the air bag with the horn pad facing up
6. Unplug the horn wiring on the clockspring
7. Remove the torx bolt in the center of the steering wheel and re thread it in about 2 turns
8. Wiggle the steering wheel up and down, back and forth til it comes loose
9. Remove the bolt and remove the wheel
10. Remove the 7mm bolts holding the trim panel on under the dash
11. Remove the 8mm bolts holding the metal panel on under the rim panel
12. Unplug the two connectors to the clockspring about halfway down the column and the ground screw
13. Remove the wires out of the clip they are in
14. Unsnap the clockspring from the column with a pocket screwdriver
15. Remove ignition lock cylinder and remove key chime wire from it
16. Pull the wires through
17. Snap clockspring back on the column and run all the wires
18. Reinstall lock cylinder
19. Remove the horn wiring and trim panel from the steering wheel with a philllips screwdriver
20. Install cruise pods and the wiring between them, you will see on the wheel where the wire is run
21. Install new trim panel on the rear of the steeringwheel
22. Install steering wheel in the straight position and tighten torx bolt
23. Plug horn wires and cruise wires into the clockspring
24. Install airbag and tighten two 8mm bolts
25. Install airbag trim covers
26. Install metal panel and trim panel under dash
27. Under hood, remove plastic cover over the throttle cable
28. Install cruise servo on passenger inner fender using a fender bolt
29. Install servo cable on servo, turn turn to lock in place
30. Run cable to throttle body and install screw that holds cable conduit
31. Install cable end on throttle body
32. Reinstall cover on throttle body
33. Plug in 10 pin connector in servo
34. Make sure you have fuses 7,10,13
35. Install master cylinder with brake pedal pressure switch and connect wiring OR jumper the two wires together with a 2 amp fuse (what I did)
36. Reconnect battery
37. Test drive over 25mph and test

Last edited by KLC; 11-18-2011 at 10:53 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-29-2011
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Hey this is really cool! I'm the original owner of a 4 cylinder 2000 Ford Ranger XLT (my first and only car I've ever owned). My only complaint about it has always been that it doesn't have cruise. I would love to take a stab at this. Honestly, I've never done much work on cars, but thought I would start learning. This seems like a practical and worthwhile project for me.

I have a couple questions about parts. I thought I would try the junk yard route. Could I get everything from a 99 explorer aside from the servo cable? If so, where could I get the servo cable from and how can I figure out which one I need?
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Old 03-29-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTDivo View Post
Hey this is really cool! I'm the original owner of a 4 cylinder 2000 Ford Ranger XLT (my first and only car I've ever owned). My only complaint about it has always been that it doesn't have cruise. I would love to take a stab at this. Honestly, I've never done much work on cars, but thought I would start learning. This seems like a practical and worthwhile project for me.

I have a couple questions about parts. I thought I would try the junk yard route. Could I get everything from a 99 explorer aside from the servo cable? If so, where could I get the servo cable from and how can I figure out which one I need?
I got all my parts from an explorer (clockspring, buttons, servo) on the servo it will have a stamp on the top saying it is for like a 4.0 explorer or 2.5 ranger.

Servo cable you can get at a dealership for like 30 bucks, otherwise its gonna be hell to find one for a 2.5L.

BTW make sure you truck is prewired for this. My 2.5 2000 wasn't (had to switch dash and underhood harnesses). The best way to tell is to look for a connector on the fender behind your coolant reservoir. It should just be attached to the fender and not connected to anything.
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Old 03-29-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheltonfilms View Post
I got all my parts from an explorer (clockspring, buttons, servo) on the servo it will have a stamp on the top saying it is for like a 4.0 explorer or 2.5 ranger.

Servo cable you can get at a dealership for like 30 bucks, otherwise its gonna be hell to find one for a 2.5L.

BTW make sure you truck is prewired for this. My 2.5 2000 wasn't (had to switch dash and underhood harnesses). The best way to tell is to look for a connector on the fender behind your coolant reservoir. It should just be attached to the fender and not connected to anything.
so is this harness directly behind the coolant reservoir? or can you see it inside the wheel well? I have a 2003 4.0L Xlt supercab......
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Old 03-29-2011
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Well you have to pull the whole dash and the driverside seat to change out the harness for the cab. For the underhood harness you have to unplug all the connectors that go from the fuse box all the way around the front (headlights) and around the otherside.

Its a LOOOOOOT of work. I was also adding power windows/locks so I was getting more than just cruise control. Does your truck have power windows and locks?

As for a 2003 Ranger, I think the whole setup is different.
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Old 03-29-2011
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So did the one from the donor truck just plug in where the old one did? How hard was the dash wiring?
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Old 03-29-2011
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6 hours for the dash harness alone. About 2 hours for the underhood. I was taking my time.
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Old 05-20-2011
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***Note to 2.5L owners switching out harnesses********
If you have a 2.5L (non PATS) and switch out the harness from a V6 model (PATS) you won't be able to start your truck without a simple mod. On the stock 2.5 setup, the starter relay is already grounded. On V6 PATS models the starter relay ground wire goes to the PATS module and the module grounds the starter when the right key is in the ignition.

To override this simply pull your passenger side air bag and locate the PATS plug (mine was green and white). You need to jump pins 1 and 7 using a small wire. This keeps the starter relay grounded at all times. Pin 1 is either Pink/orange or Blue/orange and pin 7 is Bk/WH.

You can also connect these two pins to a switch for added security. To start the car you simply have to switch the switch to on and turn the key. To keep people from hot wiring you can just toggle the switch to off. Of course I would mount this switch in a hidden location. Under the dash or in the glove box.
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  #9  
Old 05-24-2012
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I found this thread after doing a search. THank you for posting. I have a 99 Ranger XLT and want to add cruise control. ... I think if i do that it will keep me from going out and buying a new ranger for now. (haha) ... Anyways I have a question and hope you guys can answer this for me.

How do I know if my truck is pre-wired for cruise? ... I do have power windows, locks, and mirrors. ... Just don't have cruise.
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Old 05-24-2012
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look by your washer and coolant bottle, there should be a 10 pin connector hanging out
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  #11  
Old 02-08-2013
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Help!

I got an OEM Ford kit to install cruise in my 2003 2.3 5 speed manual Ranger. The "instruction manual" was obviously done by a total moron! It is almost entirely made up of cartoons with a very few useful captions. I printed out your instructions, which should help. I do wonder about the clutch switch and wiring into the brake switch. These steps appear to be pictured in the "manual" but since there aren't any actual instructions or photos, I'm going to have to kind of use my imagination.

If any of you have done this and actually took pictures, or if you know of a source for a real instruction manual, I would certainly appreciate it.
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Old 02-09-2013
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I did not do anything to the clutch switch or the brake switch under the dash for this installation. The 10 pin connector that should be present under the washer bottle/blower motor will be directly linked to those switches already
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Old 02-09-2013
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Dammit!

Well, I spent the afternoon and evening installing the cruise control. Even though the instructions were pretty crappy, everything seemed to go together pretty well...or so I thought. I got it all buttoned back up and took it for a test drive and...it didn't work! The lights lite up in the switches, but pushing the buttons did NOTHING. I checked the fuses...good...checked the brake switch...seems to be working...crap. I gave up on it for tonight, but I sure wish I had some idea what went wrong.

I did notice that the switches seem awful stiff, like the covers have hardened or something. I don't know if that is the problem or what, but after spending 8 hours on it, I've had enough for one day. Suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 02-09-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30coupe View Post
Well, I spent the afternoon and evening installing the cruise control. Even though the instructions were pretty crappy, everything seemed to go together pretty well...or so I thought. I got it all buttoned back up and took it for a test drive and...it didn't work! The lights lite up in the switches, but pushing the buttons did NOTHING. I checked the fuses...good...checked the brake switch...seems to be working...crap. I gave up on it for tonight, but I sure wish I had some idea what went wrong.

I did notice that the switches seem awful stiff, like the covers have hardened or something. I don't know if that is the problem or what, but after spending 8 hours on it, I've had enough for one day. Suggestions would be appreciated.
Run the Speed Control Self Diagnostic Test.

The version below is paraphrased from the 2002 Ranger shop manual but it works on many Ford years and models. Be sure to follow these instructions EXACTLY or you will not get reliable results:



Do not start engine during this test. Transmission in Park or Neutral with parking brake applied.

Put the key in the ignition and hold the OFF button on the speed control then turn the key to the on position and then release the OFF button. This puts the speed control in diagnostic mode.

Within 5 seconds of releasing the OFF button, start pressing the buttons in the sequence shown below:
  • ON
  • RESUME
  • COAST
  • SET/ACCEL
(For each button pressed, the speed control light should flash ONCE, indicating that the pressed button is working.)

If, after pressing the last button (SET/ACCEL), the speed control light flashes:
  • 2 flashes - defective brake pedal position sensor and/or a bad clutch pedal position sensor or the circuit is defective.
  • 3 flashes - Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is defective.
  • 4 flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
Immediately after the last flash code is complete, the speed control servo will pull the throttle open and then release it. This should be watched to check that the throttle and cable are not binding or inoperative for any other reason.

Although it is rare, it is also possible that this code could flash early during the diagnostic procedure.
  • 5 flashes Speed Control Actuator defective.
Turn ignition switch to the off position after test.
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Old 02-10-2013
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Thanks, rwenzing. If my truck didn't come with cruise, will there be a speed control light? Nothing lit up on the dash when I test drove it last night. Or will the CEL light blink?

Russ
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Old 02-10-2013
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There should be cutouts in the cluster face that form the letters "SPEED CONTROL" or similar. Use a strong flashlight and look near the "L" of the oil pressure gauge. I guess that there's some possibility that the bulb itself might not be present. Also, the wire to the light might not be in the dash harness but that seems unlikely because Ford shows speed control as a standalone factory option with the 2003 XLs.

Check the dash fuse panel to be sure that these fuses are present:

#6 2A
#9 7.5A
#10 7.5A
#11 7.5A
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Old 02-10-2013
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Thanks, Bob, I'll take a look at it tomorrow. I really appreciate your help!

Russ
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Old 02-11-2013
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I found the place in the dash that should light up and tried the diagnostic test, but nothing lit up. I think the rubber covers on the switches are just so hardened that the switches aren't making contact. I sent an email to the place I got them but haven't heard back yet. I suppose I should try to see if there is a bulb in the dash, but I sure hate the idea of having to tear the whole dash apart to find out. I wonder if it is one of the lights that should come on when I hit the key. Anyone know for sure? The weather here is so crappy right now, I don't want to pull the F150 out of the shop to get the Ranger in and work on it. It's too dark and tight of quarters to do it in the house garage. Hopefully the wind will abate some so I can get this done. Obviously Ford didn't plan on anyone changing bulbs very often.
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Old 02-11-2013
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I think the rubber covers on the switches are just so hardened that the switches aren't making contact.
They should depress easily. I've never heard of them hardening up like that in a truck but who knows what's possible when they've been in storage so long.
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Old 02-11-2013
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Well, I ripped the dash apart and there is indeed a bulb in it for the speed control light, and it looks good. Then I talked to the seller about the switches, which seem hard as a brick to me. He said he checked another box and it was hard too, so he is sending me a new set of switches to try. Hopefully that will cure the problem. We shall see! I should have the switches to try by this weekend. One thing about it, I'm getting faster at tearing a Ranger dash apart. ........
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  #21  
Old 02-12-2013
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Justin, I used your instructions along with the diagrams that came with the kit. They were very helpful.
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Old 02-13-2013
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Originally Posted by rwenzing View Post
They should depress easily. I've never heard of them hardening up like that in a truck but who knows what's possible when they've been in storage so long.
the first set of switches i put in my 98 were hard as a rock, i had to replace them. glad the instructions worked!
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  #23  
Old 03-29-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing View Post
Run the Speed Control Self Diagnostic Test.

The version below is paraphrased from the 2002 Ranger shop manual but it works on many Ford years and models. Be sure to follow these instructions EXACTLY or you will not get reliable results:



Do not start engine during this test. Transmission in Park or Neutral with parking brake applied.

Put the key in the ignition and hold the OFF button on the speed control then turn the key to the on position and then release the OFF button. This puts the speed control in diagnostic mode.

Within 5 seconds of releasing the OFF button, start pressing the buttons in the sequence shown below:
  • ON
  • RESUME
  • COAST
  • SET/ACCEL
(For each button pressed, the speed control light should flash ONCE, indicating that the pressed button is working.)

If, after pressing the last button (SET/ACCEL), the speed control light flashes:
  • 2 flashes - defective brake pedal position sensor and/or a bad clutch pedal position sensor or the circuit is defective.
  • 3 flashes - Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is defective.
  • 4 flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
Immediately after the last flash code is complete, the speed control servo will pull the throttle open and then release it. This should be watched to check that the throttle and cable are not binding or inoperative for any other reason.

Although it is rare, it is also possible that this code could flash early during the diagnostic procedure.
  • 5 flashes – Speed Control Actuator defective.
Turn ignition switch to the off position after test.
Can you tell me if the above CC diagnostic will work on a 1996 Ranger. My CC is not working. I believe my paddle switches are bad, but not sure.

Does any one know where I can buy just the CC button soft rubber covers?

Thanks,

Glenn

Last edited by Glenn Ford; 03-29-2017 at 12:39 AM.
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