Interior, Exterior, & Electrical How-To & DIY articles pertaining to the 'Interior, Exterior, & Electrical' in this sub-forum.

How-To: Change your Odometer when doing a gauge swap...95-03 trucks ONLY

Old 03-31-2010
Level III Supporter
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: usa
Posts: 24,936
How-To: Change your Odometer when doing a gauge swap...95-03 trucks ONLY

How-To author: Fx4wannabe01

Original thread:

Let the modding Begin!!


'03 and older gauge swappers: How to change your odometer

This how-to shows how to swap your current odometer gauge into your new gauge cluster on 95-03 Ford Ranger/B-series as well as the Explorer Counterparts(’01 and older Explorer, . OR how-to roll your new-to-you cluster’s odometer to your current odometer reading. The same technique could probably be used on older models as well...though i'm unsure.

Disclaimer: In this how-to, it shows you how to ‘roll your odometer’. In NO WAY shall it be used to illegally roll your odometer to show a lower mileage reading on your vehicle. Also, I cannot be held responsible for any mess-ups that could occur by the rolling of the odometer or swapping of the odometer/speedometer gauge, and also the disassembly of your clusters. I am not responsible for someone’s ignorance for not being careful.

I’m doing it in reverse as to what others would do, but all this applies to this swap. I am taking the odometer/speedo gauge from an Explorer Sport Trac cluster, and carrying it over to a stock Ranger cluster.

The awesome Sport Trac cluster i will be working on courtesy of Mr. Beard...
Name:  PA290002.jpg
Views: 3886
Size:  86.7 KB

You must first remove the plastic lense/cover from the cluster using a T15 torx on the 7 screws in which hold it on..
Name:  PA290004.jpg
Views: 3331
Size:  48.2 KB

Cover removed…
Name:  PA290005.jpg
Views: 3352
Size:  104.8 KB

Beginning mileage is 89650…
Name:  PA290006.jpg
Views: 3388
Size:  60.1 KB

Outer gauges must first be removed. I like to pull up the top section, and it’ll just pop right on out of there.
Name:  PA290007.jpg
Views: 3419
Size:  76.0 KB
Name:  PA290010.jpg
Views: 3378
Size:  106.6 KB

Center section must come out next. I like to pull up on the right hand side…there’s solid plastic chunk which you will feel when you attempt it. I also like to pull up on the very top…wedge my finger nail between the center gauge chunk and the cluster ‘housing’.
Name:  PA290014.jpg
Views: 3412
Size:  48.4 KB

All three removed…
Name:  PA290015.jpg
Views: 3426
Size:  106.3 KB

Now flip the center section over. Here, you’ll see the electric motor which drives the speedometer needle(silver round thingy towards the bottom right). Circled, are the solder studs which we’ll talk about later…
Name:  PA290018edit.jpg
Views: 3429
Size:  65.8 KB

In order to take the odometer/speedo gauge out, you must remove the needle. BUT in order to make sure you place the needle properly in the correct orientation on the needle, you must first calibrate the speedometer. We do this with a little bit of wire, alligator clips/roach clips, and a new AA battery. Make your wires look like the pic below. You need to pretty much make a ‘ Y ‘ out of them. Top of the ‘ Y ‘ shall have the roach clips, bottom of the ‘ Y ‘ shall be a long stripped section of bare wire. I made the bottom portion of the ‘ Y ‘ long to make it easier to make the vids seen later in this post.
Name:  PA290034.jpg
Views: 3322
Size:  98.5 KB

Now….those circled solder studs talked about above…they come into play here. Place an alligator clip on each stud, as following diagram. Make sure the roach clips are not touching each other OR the motor. I like to lean the Tach/Speedo gauge up against the cluster ‘housing’..makes it easy and it stays put. Red = + pos. Black = - Neg.
Name:  SpeedoCalibrationDiagram.jpg
Views: 3397
Size:  21.7 KB
Name:  PA290019.jpg
Views: 3264
Size:  62.9 KB

Now…place the bottom of the ‘ Y ‘s stripped section onto their respective ends of a new AA battery. I did the wires in cooresponding colors…Red = pos. Black = Neg. So it makes it easy. While you do this, watch the speedometer needle. It should move and hold still on a number, in this case, it was approx 70mph.
Name:  PA290024.jpg
Views: 3317
Size:  54.0 KB

Go ahead and do the AA test a few times to create an accurate speed reading. Write that reading down or take a mental note. Now you are ready to remove the speedo needle. This is best done I find, by rotating the needle up off the stop, and taking a fork to it. Sometimes though, the needle is set in so far, a fork will not fit. In that case, I like to take my box cutter and pull it up a little bit…enough to get the fork in. Get the fork in there, and pull straight up, strongly yet gently. Now the needle should be removed.
Name:  PA290028.jpg
Views: 3366
Size:  43.4 KB
Name:  PA290029.jpg
Views: 3280
Size:  69.0 KB
Name:  PA290031.jpg
Views: 3359
Size:  50.1 KB
Name:  PA290033.jpg
Views: 3399
Size:  60.8 KB

Now we are ready to remove the speedo/odometer gauge from the gauge face. It’s held on by three screws which take ╝” socket or a 5mm socket.
Name:  PA290018edit2.jpg
Views: 3399
Size:  66.5 KB
Name:  PA290035.jpg
Views: 3297
Size:  70.8 KB

If you are just swapping your existing odometer to your new cluster, you can skip down towards the bottom where we re-install it into the new cluster.

Here’s a vid which compiles all these steps together…makes a nice visual to learn I think…

Here we get to the nitty gritty.


You must separate the two sections by carefully twisting off the ‘pinion gear motor’ off the gears for the odo/trip meter. I like to do this by twisting on the plastic electrical connector, and while I’m doing that, I’d be pushing on the plastic retaining clip which holds the motor in place. Name:  PA290040.jpg
Views: 3265
Size:  47.9 KB
Name:  PA290043.jpg
Views: 3338
Size:  47.4 KB
Name:  PA290039.jpg
Views: 3396
Size:  80.3 KB

Now, be careful with this part…you CAN break one of the retaining clips and the odometer will not function properly if you do. I happened to do this when taking these pics…
Name:  PA290073.jpg
Views: 3274
Size:  41.6 KB

Name:  PA290072.jpg
Views: 3332
Size:  51.5 KB

And…the metal ears…they are sharp, so be cautious…
Name:  PA290074.jpg
Views: 3276
Size:  36.5 KB

Now you are ready to remove the odometer. It’s press fit into the plastic frame. I like to turn it down, and shove on the left side of the shaft with my finger nail. Then, on the pinion gear side, I like to either pull up or push down on the outer ‘ring gear’. Now the shaft containing the odometer should be removed. Once removed, you can slide the ‘ring gear’ off the shaft.
Name:  PA290045.jpg
Views: 3296
Size:  44.5 KB
Name:  PA290047.jpg
Views: 3323
Size:  54.0 KB
Name:  PA290050.jpg
Views: 3285
Size:  34.3 KB
Name:  PA290051.jpg
Views: 3333
Size:  49.0 KB

You paid attention to the odometers orientation in the plastic frame right? Anyway…this is how it is placed in the frame…
Name:  PA290054.jpg
Views: 3326
Size:  58.3 KB

Here is the ring gear side of the odometer. This piece must be spaced away from the number columns. I use my trusty box cutter again for this. You see those little plastic ‘ears’ ? You’ll want to pry up on that gear 90 degrees from those ‘ears’. It should only move a small amount, but that small amount is perfect.
Name:  PA290057.jpg
Views: 3388
Size:  37.5 KB
Name:  PA290060.jpg
Views: 3293
Size:  33.4 KB
Name:  PA290064.jpg
Views: 3262
Size:  39.0 KB

Once proper clearance is made, you are now ready to start rollin’. Pic below shows you the ‘ears’ I move over in order to roll a column. While rolling, you must keep in mind what set of numbers your goal is to move. In this case, it was 89560. My target odo reading is whatever…no target for this how-to, but in real life you’d have a target, and that target should be approx 20miles under what your old odometer reads for testing purposes. You must keep the numbers in line with each other or your numbers could be not in line with each other, or you could roll your ‘target number row’ past the proper location leading to an odd appearance in your cluster. I cannot really put onto ‘virtual paper’ how to do this…the vid does most the talkin’…
Name:  PA290053.jpg
Views: 3324
Size:  59.5 KB

Once your ‘target odometer reading’ is met, make sure everything is good to go and lined up propery. Now you are ready to test your odometer. You can shove all the number columns over towards that ring gear you slid out earlier, hold onto the 100,000 column and the 1,000 column, and rotate the shaft away from you(righty tighty) and make sure everything is working properly. Say the odometer reads 90001. When the 1 rolls to 9, make sure it also rolls the 0 to a 1. I like to add 20miles by hand.

Now, go ahead and push all the number columns towards the left, and push that ring gear down the shaft towards the number columns. Test to see if you can spin the shaft by holding onto the number columns and twisting the shaft away from you. If you can’t, that means the ring gear is shoved too close to the columns. Take that trusty box cutter to spread the gap a tiny bit. Test again. The shaft should spin freely without any resistance.

Slide that gear back onto the shaft, push/click in the odometer display back into its holes on the frame. Remember how those things sticking out are located in the frame before you snap it in. Reinstall the motor into the frame by twisting it into its clips. Remember that the electrical connector faces outside of the odometer frame.

Here is where you just gauge swappers come back into play again…

Install your odometer/speedometer gauge into your new cluster using the screws you removed earlier. The stud that the needle slides onto goes through a hole in the gauge face, just keep that in mind.

Remember the AA battery trick from earlier?? Time to do it again! Set it all up and make sure the alligator clips are not touching anything, and hold those leads on the battery. Very gently, slide your needle onto the shaft while ‘power’ is being applied via the AA battery. Now let go of power and let the needle hit the stop. Apply power again. Adjust as necessary until you have multiple tests showing that number you got when you last did this test. In this case, approx 70mph.

Vid time…

Put everything back together, install in truck…DONE!

Any questions/concerns, feel free to post in this thread or shoot me a PM.

**I'll probably be going back though it and making small edits here and there**

Last edited by 98liftedranger; 11-27-2011 at 09:51 PM.
Old 02-16-2018
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Round Rock, Texas
Posts: 4
Followed the steps and had success.

My speedo is only 2 mph off and I will call that a success.

Thanks for the info.
Old 07-31-2018
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Gallatin
Posts: 3

Ok, so I followed these wonderful instructions and it turned out beautifully. However my Speedo and odometer work as they should. But now my temp guage goes way up. I put the old guage cluster in and nothing in usual happened. So my assumption is I need to set the temp guage. But I have no clue how to do that. I realize this is an old post but I'm desperate.
Old 07-31-2018
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 349
Hmm... I know this has been discussed elsewhere. Something about temp gauge spiking with the different gauge cluster. I'll do some searching.

Edit - what year is your truck, and what did the cluster come from?
Edit 2 - assuming the cluster is newer than your truck, buy a temperature sender for the year of the gauge cluster. That should solve your problem.
Cluster swap, high temp readings? - The Ranger Station Forums
Old 07-31-2018
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Gallatin
Posts: 3
Sending unit

Ok here is where it gets interesting. 1996 ranger
1996 cluster out of 4x4 explorer
1999 Speedo /tach out of 4x2 explorer
Old 07-31-2018
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 349
So the temp gauge that you're using is still from a '96 Ranger, like your truck?
Old 07-31-2018
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Gallatin
Posts: 3
No the temp guage is from a 96 explorer
Old 07-31-2018
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 349
Sorry, I meant to say '96 like your Ranger, not specifically '96 Ranger. That's really odd. I believe you can swap the actual gauge from your old cluster into the new one, retaining new the face plate. Alternatively, it might be worth verifying part numbers for the gauge sender between a '96 Ranger and Explorer.
Old 03-21-2019
Scrambler82's Avatar
Old Guy Userů
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 7,298
Thanks to Fx4wannabe01, I haven't needed this How-To until now, looks straight forward.

I will post my results when I get there.

I really am in the decision mode, "Do I take my Speed-O apart and attempt this procedure for 8500 miles.

I looked at the '00 Cluster, it has 3600 miles on it, mine has 96,5xx... smoke pouring out of ear !
Related Topics
Thread Starter
Last Post
General Ford Ranger Discussion
12-03-2012 01:55 PM
General Ford Ranger Discussion
10-12-2008 03:13 PM
Interior Semi-Tech
10-24-2006 04:44 PM
Interior Semi-Tech
06-30-2005 11:42 AM

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: How-To: Change your Odometer when doing a gauge swap...95-03 trucks ONLY

Contact Us - Sitemap - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to and affiliated sites.