How-To: Reseal Ranger Rear Window '98-12
#28
03-08-2015
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#29
04-03-2015
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So I did this to mine and seem to be running into an issue putting it back in. I used 3M window weld butyl 5/8 and after putting the window back in ang tightening down the nuts, I've got a gap all the way around the window. Maybe it will squish down more when the weather gets warmer? It's been about 60 in the afternoon. I tried popping the window back out.... Not a chance. Not without piano wire to cut it out.
Anyone else have this issue with the 5/8 butyl?
Anyone else have this issue with the 5/8 butyl?
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04-04-2015
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#31
04-04-2015
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#32
05-30-2015
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I've had the same issue this spring, I had initially thought that it was the top brake/cargo lamp. I pulled it off and the inside foam gasket was weathered so bad that it had shrunk, I didn't want to wait for an order so I replaced the lamps and used some silicone around the inside edge, installed it and wiped the outside clean.
This solved 90% of my problem so it seems I will have to replace the window seal as well. Thank you for this guide, as I was a bit baffled and was ready to call a glass guy.
Thanks again, great guide :)
This solved 90% of my problem so it seems I will have to replace the window seal as well. Thank you for this guide, as I was a bit baffled and was ready to call a glass guy.
Thanks again, great guide :)
#33
05-30-2015
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#34
05-30-2015
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#35
06-18-2015
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#36
09-20-2016
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didnt wanna bump an old thread, but i wasnt allowed to post a new one... 
2 parts;
1) Dont bother trying to do anything less than ripping your window out, its not worth it.
proof that no matter how well that caulking gets in there it wont seal...
and it was WAY easier to get the old gasket/seal off than it was to get the mess i made off.
2) it was mentioned that 3/8 (I used 3M Window-Weld from AdvanceAuto) was too big but didnt show why...
The window+seal dont fit flush with the body, might just be me, idk if you can get it soft enough to squish out or not...
I tighened them even and it still bowed a bit, but its as snug in there as i feel comfortable.
(the seal squished out from the back of the screw holes)
again might just be me, but in general, 3/8 is too big, but not TOO too big, if you get my drift
I want to say the only reason i didnt do it right in the first place is because i thought my bolts were kinda rusted and would snap off, which would have been no bueno... fortunately that wasnt that case.
PS: also, it was 9mm not 10
Do it right or not at all!
2 parts;
1) Dont bother trying to do anything less than ripping your window out, its not worth it.
proof that no matter how well that caulking gets in there it wont seal...
and it was WAY easier to get the old gasket/seal off than it was to get the mess i made off.
2) it was mentioned that 3/8 (I used 3M Window-Weld from AdvanceAuto) was too big but didnt show why...
The window+seal dont fit flush with the body, might just be me, idk if you can get it soft enough to squish out or not...
I tighened them even and it still bowed a bit, but its as snug in there as i feel comfortable.
(the seal squished out from the back of the screw holes)
again might just be me, but in general, 3/8 is too big, but not TOO too big, if you get my drift
I want to say the only reason i didnt do it right in the first place is because i thought my bolts were kinda rusted and would snap off, which would have been no bueno... fortunately that wasnt that case.
PS: also, it was 9mm not 10
Do it right or not at all!
Last edited by psjbeisler; 09-21-2016 at 08:18 PM.
#37
08-28-2017
Well, i had the issue of my rear window leaking when it rained hard. I learned from a local body shop what to do to reseal the rear window and thought I would share. I know that this is how the rear windows on 98 up are but not sure for 93 to 97.
Materials needed,
1 roll of rear window seal
10mm wrench or socket
rag and alcohal
First off, I removed the jack cover and popped the retaining plugs from the side panels so I could pull the panels out far enough to get to the 8 bolts (3 along the top, 3 along the bottom and 1 in the center of each end) that hold the rear window in place. You also need to remove the coat hanger from the rear as well so you can get behind the headliner to get to the top bolts.
Attachment 146224
The nuts that hold the rear windowin are 10mm.
Attachment 146225
Attachment 146226
Once all the nuts are removed you can just push on the corners and around the edges to push the rear window out.
Attachment 146227
The old seal peeled off really easy.
Attachment 146228
Attachment 146229
Make sure to clean the seal area on both the window and the truck with alcohal and that you get all of the old seal removed.
Attachment 146230
Attachment 146231
Once all of the old seal has been removed and the seal surface has been cleaned, its time to put the new seal on. It comes in a roll like shown and can be purchased from any body shop or glass installer.
Attachment 146232
To start installing the seal, start in the center of the bottom of the window as shown putting the new seal down where the old was.
Attachment 146233
Move along the seal surface area making sure to go to the outside of the bolts like shown until you get back to the starting point where you should overlap both ends about an inch or so for sealing them together.
Attachment 146234
You are now ready to set the window back into place and reassemble. Dont over tighten the nuts. I snugged them all down and then gave them all about 3 more turns each. Then reassemble your interior and your done. Took me about 45 minutes from start to finish.
Materials needed,
1 roll of rear window seal
10mm wrench or socket
rag and alcohal
First off, I removed the jack cover and popped the retaining plugs from the side panels so I could pull the panels out far enough to get to the 8 bolts (3 along the top, 3 along the bottom and 1 in the center of each end) that hold the rear window in place. You also need to remove the coat hanger from the rear as well so you can get behind the headliner to get to the top bolts.
Attachment 146224
The nuts that hold the rear windowin are 10mm.
Attachment 146225
Attachment 146226
Once all the nuts are removed you can just push on the corners and around the edges to push the rear window out.
Attachment 146227
The old seal peeled off really easy.
Attachment 146228
Attachment 146229
Make sure to clean the seal area on both the window and the truck with alcohal and that you get all of the old seal removed.
Attachment 146230
Attachment 146231
Once all of the old seal has been removed and the seal surface has been cleaned, its time to put the new seal on. It comes in a roll like shown and can be purchased from any body shop or glass installer.
Attachment 146232
To start installing the seal, start in the center of the bottom of the window as shown putting the new seal down where the old was.
Attachment 146233
Move along the seal surface area making sure to go to the outside of the bolts like shown until you get back to the starting point where you should overlap both ends about an inch or so for sealing them together.
Attachment 146234
You are now ready to set the window back into place and reassemble. Dont over tighten the nuts. I snugged them all down and then gave them all about 3 more turns each. Then reassemble your interior and your done. Took me about 45 minutes from start to finish.
#38
08-28-2017
psjbeisler, I did the same exact thing you did to reseal the rear sliding window against the cab body using 3/8 butyl tape. from what i have discovered is either the window frame is warped or the cab body is warped. no matter what i did i won't seal completely. my next step drill 2 additional holes for screws at top of frame to bring the window frame closer to cab body.
#39
11-20-2017
The 3/8" butyl tape is too thick. Don't buy it. I've used it myself and talked to 3 body shops and they agreed with me. Buy 1/4" or 5/16" at most.
I'm doing one again today, and once again the 3/8" butyl tape is causing me major problems, but it's all the parts stores had locally. I've had the truck heater running for hours, and pushing like a madman, and it still won't lay in completely flat. I'm gonna win this battle, but it'll add another day to the project. My next trick will be a long 2x4 and some ratchet straps to add constant tension.
GB :)
I'm doing one again today, and once again the 3/8" butyl tape is causing me major problems, but it's all the parts stores had locally. I've had the truck heater running for hours, and pushing like a madman, and it still won't lay in completely flat. I'm gonna win this battle, but it'll add another day to the project. My next trick will be a long 2x4 and some ratchet straps to add constant tension.
GB :)
#40
11-20-2017
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The 3/8" butyl tape is too thick. Don't buy it. I've used it myself and talked to 3 body shops and they agreed with me. Buy 1/4" or 5/16" at most.
I'm doing one again today, and once again the 3/8" butyl tape is causing me major problems, but it's all the parts stores had locally. I've had the truck heater running for hours, and pushing like a madman, and it still won't lay in completely flat. I'm gonna win this battle, but it'll add another day to the project. My next trick will be a long 2x4 and some ratchet straps to add constant tension.
GB :)
I'm doing one again today, and once again the 3/8" butyl tape is causing me major problems, but it's all the parts stores had locally. I've had the truck heater running for hours, and pushing like a madman, and it still won't lay in completely flat. I'm gonna win this battle, but it'll add another day to the project. My next trick will be a long 2x4 and some ratchet straps to add constant tension.
GB :)
#41
09-20-2018
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
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#42
09-21-2018
#43
11-06-2018
Member
I did this years ago... probably 5 years ago. Just recently during certain rains my passenger side rear headliner was getting wet...
I resealed the 3rd brake light which was in fact leaking a little... then months would go by and no leaks and then it would leak on the headliner again.
Finally took everything out from the cab and was looking while it was raining out. I am getting water by the one stud... So I'm pulling the window out in a few days to reseal with butyl tape. I can't remember what I used last time. I'm going to get the 5/16 this time around. I think what I had was not round but more flat and I had to roll it into a roll type size. Took way longer than needed.
But at the same time I'm wondering if I should just buy a whole new rear sliding window... The one in there now is 20 years old and is still functional. But wondering if it should just be replaced and use new tape on it.
-Nigel
I resealed the 3rd brake light which was in fact leaking a little... then months would go by and no leaks and then it would leak on the headliner again.
Finally took everything out from the cab and was looking while it was raining out. I am getting water by the one stud... So I'm pulling the window out in a few days to reseal with butyl tape. I can't remember what I used last time. I'm going to get the 5/16 this time around. I think what I had was not round but more flat and I had to roll it into a roll type size. Took way longer than needed.
But at the same time I'm wondering if I should just buy a whole new rear sliding window... The one in there now is 20 years old and is still functional. But wondering if it should just be replaced and use new tape on it.
-Nigel
#44
11-06-2018
#45
11-06-2018
Member
Just looked at the seals and they are still rubbery. I've never had a leak at the window itself. Only seems like from this damn bolt that the butyl is probably crumbled or I didn't use enough in that area. I think my main problem was I used flat butyl tape instead of the round stuff. I just ordered the 3m 5/16" round so that should be better.
I'll update once it's done hopefully this weekend.
-Nigel
I'll update once it's done hopefully this weekend.
-Nigel
#46
11-07-2018
#47
11-07-2018
Member
I was super unsure which size to get. In fact looking at the stuff I have now I can't figure out what it is. I kept reading 3/8th was too big but 1/4 wasn't big enough, and kept seeing people recommend the 5/16th size. I am hoping the "rope" shape makes a difference. I know I ended up having to cut mine and I think even double it over just to be able to have it make contact with the body of the truck when I had it on the glass because I bought the flat stuff before. It's been a while so I don't remember.
-Nigel
-Nigel
#48
02-01-2019
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#49
07-25-2020
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WHAT SIZE TAPE DID YOU USE? It comes in 1/4" , 5/16", 3/8" and probably several other thicknesses too. I got the 3/8" tape (because that's all they had at the place I went to) and my friend insists that 3/8 too thick for this truck and the window will not mount up correctly.
#50
07-25-2020
Member
