Ok found the full kit of gaskets and new head bolts so will pick up tomorrow. Thank you.

 

Just a quick update. I had a couple leaking valves I found via the water test. I went ahead and lapped all valves. I have the valves and springs back in with new valve seals. I also have the Cam back in with new front seal. I just need to put the lifters back. Do I need a special tool to do this? The tool I have for spring is the one that grabs with fingers into the spring and compresses by tightening down from the top. I saw a guy use a hammer to knock them in place. Is this safe?

Hope to have the head all back together tonight and ready to sit on the block tomorrow.

 

Hi RonD, Question (likely read to many postings on this) I am going to put the cylinder head on tonight and am really confused on the torque setting. I See you do it twice and using the alternating pattern front to back side to side, but what the settings for my 96 2.3L? I see on some postings and manual that for 96 it was different. Confused. thanks

 

Head bolt tightening always start at the center 2 bolts and works its way out to each end of the head, alternating and crisscrossing

Drawing here: https://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c..._PROCEDURE.png
Same for any heads, 4cyl, V6 or V8, start at the center and work your way out

Don't think the 2.3l Lima ever used Torque-to-yeild(TTY) head bolts

So tighten each head bolt down to 55ft/lb in order(50-60ft/lb)
Then tighten each to 85ft/lb in order(80-90ft/lb)

You should dip a bolt in oil and then thread it down each hole, with head off, to make sure threads are clean, should be able to do this by hand, no wrench needed
You can use same bolt and dip it in oil every 3rd or 4th hole
When all holes are clean and oiled, wipe off any excess oil and install head gasket
Holes may not be open at the bottom so don't let too much oil build up at bottom of a hole
The Torque of 85ft/lb is only accurate if threads are clean


Head bolts are always tighten in Steps, some times 2 and sometimes 3 steps, even seen 4 steps

TTY head bolts are made to Stretch when used, so can't be reused, for sure, but most head bolts should be replaced in any case as older ones can break when tightening

 

Thank you. I bought new bolts a I thought these were TTY. I will follow your instructions. I know no thread lock but any other sealant required?

 

No, no sealant

TTY bolts were used because it makes engine assembly at the plants easier/cheaper, and technically they can hold better, but that's a wash since head bolts rarely break once installed
Torque settings for the computers at assembly plants needed to be calibrated/tested daily
And that costs time and money

TTY bolts need minimal torque to start, under 40ft/lbs with a wide margin for error
Then they are finish by 90 DEGREE rotation and then maybe another 90deg rotation
Computers can do 90deg rotation accurately all day long with no calibration, so easier

 

hi RonD. I am back on the Ranger just about back together but have a question on the timing belt. I have it installed with new tensioner. I have the Triangles aligned and Diamonds aligned but they just keep moving slightly when i apply the pressure with idler. Do these things have to be just dead nuts on in order to run right.

Im at TDC also and that stays ok the cam and oil pump seem to rotate slightly

 

They can be off slightly after turning crank 2 full turns
There is always some "slop" in timing chains and belts

As long as moving the belt on the gear one tooth either way won't get it closer(it won't) then you did GOOD in setting it up

 

Ok I made some adjustments and cranked 2 times around and the shapes are "very close" to alignment. I think it should be good to go.

Thanks will hopefully complete the rest of the assembly tonight. I will update later on status.

 

OK we have an update we completed reassembly tonight. We did start the truck which was not an issue for starting which is good. The problem we had is it idled rough in the sense that it felt like it was searching or surging. Once I held the throttle slightly open it ran fairly smooth we did not attempt to drive it however it's dark and I want to make sure that everything is in good shape no leaks etc.
Any thoughts on what would cause it to search or surge an stumble while trying to idle? Thanks

 

So today truck is still searching at idle. Goes low then high. You can give some gas and it will sort of clear up but once you let off it will then die. if left alone it will idle but with the volatile hunt and search.
Seems this it not entirely uncommon on the rangers but don't really see what the permanent fix is from folks.
Things to check that can cause this?

 

Just to rule out air leaks, warm up engine first, 4minutes is long enough, let it idle

Pull off 1 vacuum hose at a time and plug that port with your finger
no change, put hose back on and test the next one
Start with power brake booster and PCV valve hoses, the big ones

2.3l with manual trans should idle at about 750rpm warm, automatic 800

Also test spark plugs
1996 2.3l can run on just one coil pack and the 4 spark plugs
So unplug the 3 wire connector on either coil pack and tart the engine
Should run smooth, if there is a steady misfire then you have a problem with a wire or spark plug on the working side

Do same test but us other 4 spark plugs and coil pack

Benefit of dual spark plugs is better power, draw back is you can never tell when a spark plug is not working, do this test once a year

 

Will D RonD.

Also going to check I dont have a clogged Cat Con. I replaced muffler and all other pieces this week. Just not cat con.

 

Ok so vacuum test done, coil pack test done and removed cat con.

So it would idle, but once we gave throttle it would die. Also drove it and while under load would make decent power howeve,, when I put clutch in it died automatically. I could pop and keep going.

Once parked it would not start and idle for about 5-10 minutes then it would idle again.

As for idle it is still searching and dropping down to a point it verily runs, then surges and starts over.
Last thing i did was adjust idle screw to a point I could hold a less erratic idle. (No rpm gauge) still not idling smooth though.

Not sure what to do next.

 

Could timing be off? Any way to check vs just the marks?

 

Ok, update!! We are idling and running good.

I think final step was iac cleaning and new gasket. Old one was torn and a mess. Also new o2 sensors, new vacuum hose from throttle body to charcoal cannister.

Don't know which did it but all good. Thanks For all the help and advice.

 

I'm going to put this here because I believe it could be a continuation of the above problem. The truck seemed to run fine for a while still had a little bit of a lag just ever so slightly but didn't think much of it. Over the last month it really acted like it was clogged up or something other it started to spray oil all over the inside of the engine compartment on all the parts underneath everywhere for the most part. Did some research and decided to go ahead and change the catalytic converter. This improved the sound and performance of the truck immensely believe that the cat was Original. However there's still some residual smoke coming off the engine and perhaps still coming from somewhere. removedThrottle body, intake manifold, etc all covered with oil. Pulled the plugs all 8 look very similar and OK. Lastly I just performed a compression test. 1st 3 cylinders were from 120 to 131psi cylinder 4 by firewall is only at 60 I checked it twice.

Could a clogged cat have caused some additional damage? Previously as I stated we removed the head lapped the valves put new O rings etc when we had the blown head gasket.
thoughts on potential issues or next steps?