Hello everyone, my name is Bobby and own a 2010 XLT. Hope all is well with everyone. How I got here. Retired in 2016, stayed out 3 months and as friends always do, I let a friend talk me into doing consulting. Not sure it was the smartest thing but can assure you I have been blessed to work with a lot of great people form La. to Va. Late 2017 I was using my wife's old car, '10 Camry with 284K miles and a deer totaled it. Was needing something quick as I am not a new vehicle type of person, ran across this 2010 Ranger with 83K and a decent price. Fast forward to April 2022, 174K miles and rear timing chain cassette gave up. Got on XXXX, ordered engine and changed it out and attempted to start up. Did not hit a lick. I had installed a new crank sensor so I put the old one back on, low an behold it started up as if nothing had happened. I was working out of state and 150 miles from home and less than 400 miles on the engine #6 cyl lost compression. Luckily I was able to sputter back home arriving around 10:30 pm. (Loaded my backup, 1997 350 Dodge/Cummins and back on the road next morning). While I was out (3 weeks) I made contact with the vendor and they told me to identify the problem and they would send parts needed to fix the problem. ( The last time I buy a parts only guarantee, my problem). When I got back home, removed the engine and found problems with cam cap bolts, sent pics to them and they promptly sent what appeared to be a new head and all necessary gaskets. Ordered all necessary tools to reset timing, put back together and reinstalled in the truck. Cranked, sputtered several times for about 5 seconds. Changed crank sensor again, no difference. Loaded on my trailer and carried to a certified shop (friend of the family) and he ran diagnostics and this thought was the mechanical timing was off. Brought home, pulled engine again but found all was intact with the mechanical side. Have reinstalled again, cranked and sputtered but did not shut down. I had read somewhere that a .040 air gap is needed on the crank sensor, this only had a tight .015 gap. Had to drill the holes larger in the crank sensor mounts to achieve the needed gap. Cranks and idles somewhat smoothly now but will not rev up. One comforting thing is the engine mechanically is good, we're down to the wire. That's my story, the moral of it is: STAY RETIRED! Thanks and hope your blessing will be many.

 

As a finishing touch on this episode, I kept tinkering with the crank sensor. I elongated the mounting holes and delayed timing slightly, and am running a .090 gap between sensor and balancer. Could only get one bolt in sensor but is running fine. Will run it that way as long as it runs. Have found that mechanics that are willing to deal with this engine are few and far between. Good luck to everyone out there that is shade treeing these things. Lots of coffee.