Hello Everyone. It's good to have found you (this site) as I've made the commitment to myself to get and keep my 1996 Ranger XLT in enviable condition and shape. I bought this truck new in SoCal when an assignment I was apart of came to an end. I had previously been living in NYC and most certainly did not need a cage of any sort. Looking around before I walked into any dealer it became quickly apparent the Ranger was the 1st stop to make. My first clue was that just about every utility in the area I was living in were driving Rangers so I thought, someone did some diligence. I couldn't be happier with my choice. The truck lived in the NE for the first 4 years then the south for the next 9 years. Next it went back to the NE as an "airport station car" where it got short workouts, about twice a month, for 9 years. It got Ford dealer check ups regularly and with the exception of the air conditioner was fairly trouble free. I dumped my 2011 Nissan Pathfinder because I kept getting great cash offers for it and decided to take advantage of that. Drove the Ranger down south without issue. I've had the transmission rebuilt twice, engine has been trouble free. My first order of business for the ranger is to go to a larger tire (215s ---> 225s), recharge the air conditioner (prior to switching out everything to the new R "stuff"), brakes all around and then body work. Somewhere along the way I was backed into (parking lot) and my front bumper was bent downward. Drives me nuts and I think i was told that it would be very difficult to correct. Can't recall why. Will look back into it. Guess that about describes my Ranger world at the moment. I did a 32 year stint with IBM of which 12 years was spent working on copiers, typewriters and other office equipment (mag cards, dictation systems etc) so I ain't scared to dig into stuff.

I'd appreciate anyone's opinions, tips, etc with respect to my described course of action. I'm all ears.

Peace and be well.

 

Welcome to the forum

Is your Ranger 2WD or 4x4, regular or extended cab, assume automatic since trans was rebuilt.......twice
And what size engine?
2.3l, 3.0l, or 4.0l OHV

1996 was almost the last year of the 2nd Generation Ranger, 1993 to 1997, 3rd gen was 1998 to 2012(last of these rangers), 1st gen was 1983 to 1992
2nd and 3rd generation are almost identical, so many body parts are the same, but "almost" is the key word, always check first.

1983 to 1997 Rangers had speedometer gears on the transmission tail shaft or transfer case, so if you do change tire size you can get a new gear for a few dollars to correct speedometer if it is off.

1995 and up Rangers got the still used EEC-V computer, ODB2, and also used electric speedometer instead of cable driven, but still used the gear setup to drive the VSS(vehicle speed sensor) until 1998

Yes, Rangers are very reliable trucks overall, very popular choice for "Fleet" vehicles

 

Morning RonD. Thanks for the welcome. I updated my Truck's profile with answers to your questions, its a '94 (VIN: 1FTCR14X2RPC02455 ... I'm assuming it's the number 1 and not the letter I) 2nd generation 2WD and yes, automatic. I'm hoping that going from 215 to 225 tires, I won't need to change out anything else to keep the speedometer close to accurate. RonD you mention the EEC-V computer ... would that explain not having a port to which one can connect a diagnostic tool? I did get a check engine light on my trip down from the NE and when I stopped off at AutoZone for a read....the port couldn't be found.

Again, 'apreciate your welcome. Be well and take a knee at 3!

Hastings

 

Yes, 1994 was last year of the EEC-IV computers in Rangers, it used OBD1
In 1994 Test port is in the engine bay drivers side, usually on main wiring harness between firewall and fuse box, some times attached to side of fuse box.

Most OBD2 testers can not connect to or read OBD1 codes
But on the plus side you can get the codes yourself if you can count, lol.

Video on doing that here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=X07hu0kAuzE

So just a short jumper wire and you can read the codes
There are no 0's

1994 uses 3 digit trouble codes, seen here: OBD-I Diagnostic Trouble Code ? Ford 3-Digit Codes : The Ranger Station

Never Google a code number, OBD1 or OBD2, always look up a code on a complete list of all the codes.
Reason for that is because computer is not smart, there are often several codes for one system, it picks the one code for a reason, this can help you determine if its a wiring issue or sensor issue.
If a code definition mentions a sensor that usually means sensor is WORKING!!!, or computer wouldn't see the "problem", so don't "shoot the messenger", lol
Many problems, on older vehicles especially, are just dirty connectors, 25 years in the same place can build up a little corrosion, simply unplugging a sensor or connector and plugging it back in will clean off connections so they work again, this is often why a new sensor corrects a problem, the act of unplugging it and plugging it back in fixed it, not the new sensor, lol.

To clear codes, put jumper in place and turn key ON, and then when codes start to flash on the CEL(check engine light) turn key OFF, remove jumper.
Codes are now cleared and CEL should be off when driving unless problem was not fixed, it will then come on again with same or new code

 

Thank you! That explains the funny look on the Autozone guy's face as he hunted under the dash :-) .

Be well ... we all appreciate your sacrifices.

H