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Old 11-20-2017
The Midget's Avatar
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Hello

New to this site. So here is my official introduction. Let me start off with saying Hi. I just purchased a 2000 Ranger 3.0 5 speed 4x2. It will be my 16 year old first vehicle. Has 125,000 one owner and was purchased for a great price. He has already added side bars and some fog lights. I do need some advice and will try searching the forum but if any of you have links that would help.

First- needs front shocks, has all new bushings and ball joints (previous owner) but rides rough. This truck sets high in the rear. I am not sure if it was factory or if some one lifted it. It does have lift blocks on the rear springs. How do I know if this is a high rider model? It does have torsion bar suspension in front.

Second- The truck looses antifreeze. I can not find the leak. I know some fords had problems with radiators expanding when hot. Were the rangers known for this as well.

Thanks for any info or links ahead of time.

 
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Old 11-20-2017
Jeff R 1's Avatar
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Hello, welcome.
The 3 litres have common problems with leaky front timing chain covers.
The coolant flows through the cover into the block and where it mates the block, is where it leaks.
If it's using coolant and you can't see it, then check the small line that runs from the rad cap to the over-flow tank.
Look for chafing and cracks.
Leaks can also develop on the lower intake manifold, the coolant will end up in the oil of it leaks here, so check you're oil.

You may have to get it pressure tested to find the leak.

If it has been overheated (even a little), the coolant may be leaking into one of the combustion chambers and not really showing up.
If the leak is small it may still run fine, and the problem won't be noticed.
Pull the plugs and if one is cleaner then the rest, the coolant is getting into the combustion chamber.

Do Ron's glove teste from this post.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/2-3l-2...6/#post2129797

I've been here for a little while now, I haven't come across Ranger rads expanding and leaking.
There're all aluminum with plastic tanks, one isn't any better then the other.

Can't answer the other questions, but mine rides rough too, if the road is patched and bumpy, I can feel everything.
It's a truck though, not a Rolls Royce.
I hauled some paving stones and then then the ride was good _ just stiff suspension, can't really do anything about it.

The 3 litre is a good reliable engine, but has it's problems, not serious though.
The oil pan gaskets leak and it's pretty much impossible to drop it with the engine in place.
Having tried various methods with out pulling the engine is a real bear.
Just pull the engine and get it over with.
Mount it on a stand and work on it up side down so you can make sure the new gasket is seated properly.
If it's not leaking, or if the leak is small, then leave it.

If you're still running the metal DPFE sensor, then replace it with the plastic one, the lines that run from it too that go into the EGR chimney.
If it's not giving problems now, it will eventually.
The metal ones corrode internally shorting out the circuit board when the water and hot exhaust gases penetrate into the electronics inside the sensor.

Replace your PCV valve on the drivers side valve cover, the line as well.

Synchronizer problems...
It's at the back of the engine where the distributor used to be.
It's bushing runs dry and they start developing this chirpy squeaky noise.
The shaft then wears on the bushing and gets sloppy.
Once this happens, the "tooth" that runs in front of the sensor, starts banging into it and things go down hill pretty fast when it gets to this point.
You can simply unbolt the sensor (leave it plugged in) and oil the mechanical synchronizer _ I use Tri-Flow.


Power wise they're OK, you can pull away quickly from a light if you rev it up through each gear to around 4000 rpm _ the engine is designed to rev.
Passing in the highway is another matter.
If you pissing along in 5th and the engine is doing only 2500, then passing is a problem.
If you double clutch into 4th and floor it, it takes a while for the engine to climb into its power zone where the horse power is.

Sorry, information over-load...
 

Last edited by Jeff R 1; 11-20-2017 at 10:35 AM.
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