Hello! 98 Ford ranger from Ohio, living in Oregon!
Hello! 98 Ford ranger from Ohio, living in Oregon!
I love this website and finally decided to sign up.
Im Haley, I bought my truck from West Virginia, drove to Ohio- she came with 35,000 miles, new engine swap and I had to put new tranny in it. Then drove it to Montana down to Arizona all the way up Cali and now in Oregon.
Over last 4 years I’ve replaced -starter twice, alt, battery, idler, exhaust, catalytic converter, fuel pump, filter, new m&ms air intake, new mass air flow sensor, tensioner bearing, power steering, gutted my ac, clutch fan bearing, water pump, coolant thermostats(2), new ignition module,shocks, hub assembly, so a lot. And I have bad wiring connection from starter to ignition module and use a power probe 3 to start it on the ground off my solenoid.
and this website has helped me soooo many times to figure out wtf is going on. So hello I’m happy to be here!
Right now, I need help because my 26 fuse (in drivers side) was working but my lights and windows kept going in and out so I replaced when my truck didn’t start last week-now it doesn’t work at all, reader is saying its fine but my lights and windows aren’t working (and idk how to test battery saver or the other thing). In total I replaced 26 and 24 bc my cigar lighter hasn’t been working but now 26 isn’t working (24 is) but the truck started up (dirty battery terminals I think).
I’m just unsure why the fuse isn’t working and if I should worry? Or how I can figure out where it’s going wrong bc I’m worried it’ll screw me later.
again thx for letting me join sorry it’s so much to read!
Im Haley, I bought my truck from West Virginia, drove to Ohio- she came with 35,000 miles, new engine swap and I had to put new tranny in it. Then drove it to Montana down to Arizona all the way up Cali and now in Oregon.
Over last 4 years I’ve replaced -starter twice, alt, battery, idler, exhaust, catalytic converter, fuel pump, filter, new m&ms air intake, new mass air flow sensor, tensioner bearing, power steering, gutted my ac, clutch fan bearing, water pump, coolant thermostats(2), new ignition module,shocks, hub assembly, so a lot. And I have bad wiring connection from starter to ignition module and use a power probe 3 to start it on the ground off my solenoid.
and this website has helped me soooo many times to figure out wtf is going on. So hello I’m happy to be here!
Right now, I need help because my 26 fuse (in drivers side) was working but my lights and windows kept going in and out so I replaced when my truck didn’t start last week-now it doesn’t work at all, reader is saying its fine but my lights and windows aren’t working (and idk how to test battery saver or the other thing). In total I replaced 26 and 24 bc my cigar lighter hasn’t been working but now 26 isn’t working (24 is) but the truck started up (dirty battery terminals I think).
I’m just unsure why the fuse isn’t working and if I should worry? Or how I can figure out where it’s going wrong bc I’m worried it’ll screw me later.
again thx for letting me join sorry it’s so much to read!
Last edited by 98fordhalb; Nov 19, 2023 at 04:28 PM.
Welcome to the forum
Sorry for the delay , not sure why I didn't see it a few days ago
1998 Ranger
3.0l
4x4
Manual or automatic?
Odd you have had to replace/repair so many things
New parts are a roll of the dice now-a-days, some last some do not
"Ignition module" = ignition switch, the part under the steering column????
The Ranger needs to "be in neutral" to START
With an Automatic that means the DTR switch on the driver's side of transmission needs to be in Park or Neutral, not just the Shifter in the cab, very common for the cab shifter to get loose so DTR can be put all the way into Park, so try starting in Neutral, if its starts then Google: Ford Ranger loose column shifter
Manual uses a Clutch pedal switch to "be in Neutral", clutch pedal down all the way close a switch on the cab push rod and allows Starter motor to work
Both use cab fuse 24 but as a pass thru, fuse 24 has no voltage except when key is turned to START
Cab fuse 26 is 12v all the time, not a key on key off fuse
Yes, it powers the Battery Saver Relay, coil and output voltage, but the GEM module controls the Battery Saver Relay, by grounding it to activate it
GEM also controls interior lights
Most common issue in Power windows being intermittent is the switch in drivers door, the one that get used the most
Sorry for the delay , not sure why I didn't see it a few days ago
1998 Ranger
3.0l
4x4
Manual or automatic?
Odd you have had to replace/repair so many things
New parts are a roll of the dice now-a-days, some last some do not
"Ignition module" = ignition switch, the part under the steering column????
The Ranger needs to "be in neutral" to START
With an Automatic that means the DTR switch on the driver's side of transmission needs to be in Park or Neutral, not just the Shifter in the cab, very common for the cab shifter to get loose so DTR can be put all the way into Park, so try starting in Neutral, if its starts then Google: Ford Ranger loose column shifter
Manual uses a Clutch pedal switch to "be in Neutral", clutch pedal down all the way close a switch on the cab push rod and allows Starter motor to work
Both use cab fuse 24 but as a pass thru, fuse 24 has no voltage except when key is turned to START
Cab fuse 26 is 12v all the time, not a key on key off fuse
Yes, it powers the Battery Saver Relay, coil and output voltage, but the GEM module controls the Battery Saver Relay, by grounding it to activate it
GEM also controls interior lights
Most common issue in Power windows being intermittent is the switch in drivers door, the one that get used the most
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