New here, first Ranger.
New here, first Ranger.
Picked up a 2000 Ranger Supercab. 4.0L 2x4. Looking to get some knowledge out as I need to do some work. The truck is for fishing really, not much more. Decent shape motor runs great only has 138k on the frame, got a new motor from a recall I was sold at 28k miles.
Things I need to fix/replace. Shocks, looking for some suggestions, I'd also like to raise it ever so slightly, like an inch or so, not sure the best way to do that. Pepboys has a deal on install and even some shocks, so not sure the one I should get but from my readings, people say the KYB are good ones. Otherwise, they carry Rancho etc.
It has a leak from the oil pan, previous only said the gasket needs to be changed, I'm told I can do this myself, I live in Chicago and have a garage now, just not sure I have all the tools I need. Willing to buy some as I plan to do my own oil changes in the future.
Driver side door seems to sit lower when opened, probably just need to bring it to a body shop to get tightened and realigned.
There;s rust underneath, people told me it's in great shape for it's age, but I'd still feel better getting it cleaned and find a way to prevent it from getting worse, any suggestions?
What good updates/mods should I be looking at? Like I mentioned before, I'm using it to fish basically, I haul a kayak in the bed, it has a camper.
Thanks!
Things I need to fix/replace. Shocks, looking for some suggestions, I'd also like to raise it ever so slightly, like an inch or so, not sure the best way to do that. Pepboys has a deal on install and even some shocks, so not sure the one I should get but from my readings, people say the KYB are good ones. Otherwise, they carry Rancho etc.
It has a leak from the oil pan, previous only said the gasket needs to be changed, I'm told I can do this myself, I live in Chicago and have a garage now, just not sure I have all the tools I need. Willing to buy some as I plan to do my own oil changes in the future.
Driver side door seems to sit lower when opened, probably just need to bring it to a body shop to get tightened and realigned.
There;s rust underneath, people told me it's in great shape for it's age, but I'd still feel better getting it cleaned and find a way to prevent it from getting worse, any suggestions?
What good updates/mods should I be looking at? Like I mentioned before, I'm using it to fish basically, I haul a kayak in the bed, it has a camper.
Thanks!
Welcome to the forum
Nice looking Ranger
You have a 4.0l OHV engine in a 2000 Ranger, they were used from 1990 to 2000, 2001- 2011 Rangers got the 4.0l SOHC engine, much different engine
You have either a 5R55E automatic or an M5OD-R1(M5R1) manual, BOTH use ATF, yes ATF in a manual trans, just FYI
Rust is oxidation, same process as burning wood using heat and oxygen, remove the heat or the oxygen and the fire goes out
Rust is tough to stop once it starts, clean surfaces as best you can then apply a "rust converter" like Naval Jelly or similar, these change the rust they come in contact with to a inert iron phosphate
Rust removers/converters hurt Paint, dissolve it, so be careful, its also toxic so wear gloves and glasses
Once surface is cleaned and rust is converted makes sure its dry, then Prime it, let it dry and Paint it
Reason for both is that paint doesn't stick to metal very well, but Primer does
Primer does seal well but paint does, and paint sticks to primer
So prime then paint
There are metal paints, they claim no primer needed, your choice
To stop rust you need to remove the metals contact with oxygen, bare metal rusts painted metal doesn't because no contact with oxygen
Water and salts(minerals) speed up rust, oxidation.
Nice looking Ranger
You have a 4.0l OHV engine in a 2000 Ranger, they were used from 1990 to 2000, 2001- 2011 Rangers got the 4.0l SOHC engine, much different engine
You have either a 5R55E automatic or an M5OD-R1(M5R1) manual, BOTH use ATF, yes ATF in a manual trans, just FYI
Rust is oxidation, same process as burning wood using heat and oxygen, remove the heat or the oxygen and the fire goes out
Rust is tough to stop once it starts, clean surfaces as best you can then apply a "rust converter" like Naval Jelly or similar, these change the rust they come in contact with to a inert iron phosphate
Rust removers/converters hurt Paint, dissolve it, so be careful, its also toxic so wear gloves and glasses
Once surface is cleaned and rust is converted makes sure its dry, then Prime it, let it dry and Paint it
Reason for both is that paint doesn't stick to metal very well, but Primer does
Primer does seal well but paint does, and paint sticks to primer
So prime then paint
There are metal paints, they claim no primer needed, your choice
To stop rust you need to remove the metals contact with oxygen, bare metal rusts painted metal doesn't because no contact with oxygen
Water and salts(minerals) speed up rust, oxidation.
Thanks Ron!
Yep, I have the automatic trans. I took it to the shop, it apparently had three seals that need to be replaced, I just told the shop to go ahead and replace all. The are also looking at my door hinge. I'm thinking of working on the rust stuff in the winter here. Chicago winters keep me indoor plenty long enough to work on it. :)
I just ordered some new speakers since I blew one already lol. About to work on my window, haven't figured out why the driver side rolls up 90% but then stops. So I'll be figuring that out soon. Otherwise I love the truck, plan to slowly redo things as I can or need to. It's perfect for what I use it for.
Yep, I have the automatic trans. I took it to the shop, it apparently had three seals that need to be replaced, I just told the shop to go ahead and replace all. The are also looking at my door hinge. I'm thinking of working on the rust stuff in the winter here. Chicago winters keep me indoor plenty long enough to work on it. :)
I just ordered some new speakers since I blew one already lol. About to work on my window, haven't figured out why the driver side rolls up 90% but then stops. So I'll be figuring that out soon. Otherwise I love the truck, plan to slowly redo things as I can or need to. It's perfect for what I use it for.
Sounds good
LMC Truck is a good place to look at/for Ranger body/chassis parts: Truck Parts & Truck Accessories for Chevy, GMC, Ford & Dodge Trucks
Select Ford
Then RANGER(at the bottom)............NOT Pickup thats for full size Fords
Then 1983-2011
You can look thru whole catalog or type in DOOR and then shop now
You should get a list of pages that has door parts
Say you select this one: Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
1993-2011 Ranger door window parts
You can see whats inside the door and what parts are interchangeable by year
If window doesn't roll up all the way it may have skipped a gear or two on the regulator because something is loose on motor or handle
LMC Truck is a good place to look at/for Ranger body/chassis parts: Truck Parts & Truck Accessories for Chevy, GMC, Ford & Dodge Trucks
Select Ford
Then RANGER(at the bottom)............NOT Pickup thats for full size Fords
Then 1983-2011
You can look thru whole catalog or type in DOOR and then shop now
You should get a list of pages that has door parts
Say you select this one: Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
1993-2011 Ranger door window parts
You can see whats inside the door and what parts are interchangeable by year
If window doesn't roll up all the way it may have skipped a gear or two on the regulator because something is loose on motor or handle
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



