Not Starting
I took a trip the other day, ranger started up no problem. Drove 75-80 miles no problem. I shut the truck off and no start! It crank well so no battery issue. I checked spark by pulling the ignition cables one at a time, good spark out of each one. I bought a can of starter fluid spraying into the intake and it didnt even try to start. So I got a capful of gas and poured that in the intake, started up rpms high until I put the intake hose on. Ran like a charm for 10 min. I shut it off and it wont start. I also turned the key and heard the fuel pump hmm for 2 sec. Thank You for help in advance
Does CEL go off when cranking engine over?
It should
Unplug TPS(throttle sensor) and try to start
If throttle sensor is shorting out it tells computer to shut of injectors while cranking, "Clear Flooded Engine" routine
Press the pin in on the fuel pressure test port, after cycling the key on and off 3 times
Should have 30+ psi pressure there, if not then Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) may be stuck open, so 0psi for start up but once RPMs are above 400 computer will turn on fuel pump full time so you would have about 20psi for injectors
Same can happen at fuel pumps check valve, if you have 0psi at the test port you can pull off the Return Fuel line on the FPR and put a towel down under FPR port, then turn key on and off, no fuel should come out of FPR port
If fuel comes out replace FPR
If no fuel comes out problem is in gas tank pump
It should
Unplug TPS(throttle sensor) and try to start
If throttle sensor is shorting out it tells computer to shut of injectors while cranking, "Clear Flooded Engine" routine
Press the pin in on the fuel pressure test port, after cycling the key on and off 3 times
Should have 30+ psi pressure there, if not then Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) may be stuck open, so 0psi for start up but once RPMs are above 400 computer will turn on fuel pump full time so you would have about 20psi for injectors
Same can happen at fuel pumps check valve, if you have 0psi at the test port you can pull off the Return Fuel line on the FPR and put a towel down under FPR port, then turn key on and off, no fuel should come out of FPR port
If fuel comes out replace FPR
If no fuel comes out problem is in gas tank pump
It is hard to diagnose the truck because it is 80 miles away. I will get a TPS. But isnt the fuel pressure regulator on a fuel pump, because I purchased a Delphi fuel pump. Is that a good brand. And I see BWD and Walker Throttle Position Sensor at Advanced Auto BWD 47.99 and walker 29.10. When I go up there I am going to check fuel pressure, I heard it hmm when i turned the key so it should be getting electric. I thought it was a weak pump because going 80 miles the gas gauge was around a 1/4 of a tank. But I got gas in a can poured it in but it still didnt start.
1986 to 1997 Rangers with fuel injection have FPR on the engine and ran 30psi fuel pressure
In 1998 and up, Rangers got a Returnless fuel system and FPR was in the gas tank with pump, and ran 55psi fuel pressure
TPS is a long shot and you can drive vehicle with out it, it would just have slower throttle response on acceleration
So unplugging is best test, it could still be shorted wires on the TPS harness but thats less likely than the TPS internal short
So I wouldn't buy any parts until you test it
In 1998 and up, Rangers got a Returnless fuel system and FPR was in the gas tank with pump, and ran 55psi fuel pressure
TPS is a long shot and you can drive vehicle with out it, it would just have slower throttle response on acceleration
So unplugging is best test, it could still be shorted wires on the TPS harness but thats less likely than the TPS internal short
So I wouldn't buy any parts until you test it
Hi Ron I did replace the fuel Pressure Regulator. Thats the part that has the gas line connected to the top of it. Its connected to the engine by the fuel rail. I never replaced the TPS, since I have to travel 80 miles I figure have all the parts I got a Motorcraft CX1542 for under 30.00. So the test I should do when I go up there. 1. Unplug TPS try to start. If it starts should I still do a fuel pressure test I guess it wont hurt. To cover all Grounds Thank You for the info!!!
I always got a crazy diagnoses!! I unplugged TPS, went in truck started right up. Shut it off to put the new sensor on went in truck would not start. I got a cheap fuel pressure gauge there was leaks. Turned the key three times pressure wnt up , but lost pressure as soon as you shut it off. Could I say its not a fuel pump but possibly Fuel Pressure Regulator?
Well there are 4 places the fuel system can lose pressure with key off
1. A leaking fuel line, you should smell this if its not freezing cold out
2. leaking fuel injector, engine would run rough and smoke a bit grey/blackish smoke
3. FPR(fuel pressure regulator), 1997 and earlier its on the engine, has fuel Return line attached, and a VACUUM hose, check vacuum hose for gasoline, replace if there is gasoline in this hose
4. Check valve inside fuel pump, this is part of the fuel pump not a separate part, its basically just a flap that is pushed open when pump is on the closes when pump is off so fuel can't flow backwards into the pump
Assuming 1 and 2 are not the issue, and FPR vacuum hose is dry, you can remove the Return line from the FPR, then put a towel down under FPR and turn the key on
Engine off the FPR should hold pressure up to 45psi, so single key on would only be 10psi, so NO FUEL should come out of FPR with key on, even 2 or 3 times
If fuel comes out then replace FPR
If no fuel comes out the problem is fuel pumps check valve
A failed FPR will effect engine operation
A failed check valve would ONLY effect startup, once engine is started fuel pump is on full time so check valve isn't used and wouldn't effect operation
1. A leaking fuel line, you should smell this if its not freezing cold out
2. leaking fuel injector, engine would run rough and smoke a bit grey/blackish smoke
3. FPR(fuel pressure regulator), 1997 and earlier its on the engine, has fuel Return line attached, and a VACUUM hose, check vacuum hose for gasoline, replace if there is gasoline in this hose
4. Check valve inside fuel pump, this is part of the fuel pump not a separate part, its basically just a flap that is pushed open when pump is on the closes when pump is off so fuel can't flow backwards into the pump
Assuming 1 and 2 are not the issue, and FPR vacuum hose is dry, you can remove the Return line from the FPR, then put a towel down under FPR and turn the key on
Engine off the FPR should hold pressure up to 45psi, so single key on would only be 10psi, so NO FUEL should come out of FPR with key on, even 2 or 3 times
If fuel comes out then replace FPR
If no fuel comes out the problem is fuel pumps check valve
A failed FPR will effect engine operation
A failed check valve would ONLY effect startup, once engine is started fuel pump is on full time so check valve isn't used and wouldn't effect operation
You can just check the FPR vacuum hose for fuel , whether it holds vacuum or not is not really a test for the FPR
There is a spring and valve inside the FPR, that's what holds the pressure in the fuel system
You can take the Return fuel line off the FPR and then cycle key on and off, no fuel should come out of FPR until fuel pressure exceeds 45psi
The vacuum line just helps to stabilize that pressure when engine is running
There is a spring and valve inside the FPR, that's what holds the pressure in the fuel system
You can take the Return fuel line off the FPR and then cycle key on and off, no fuel should come out of FPR until fuel pressure exceeds 45psi
The vacuum line just helps to stabilize that pressure when engine is running
You can just check the FPR vacuum hose for fuel , whether it holds vacuum or not is not really a test for the FPR
There is a spring and valve inside the FPR, that's what holds the pressure in the fuel system
You can take the Return fuel line off the FPR and then cycle key on and off, no fuel should come out of FPR until fuel pressure exceeds 45psi
The vacuum line just helps to stabilize that pressure when engine is running
There is a spring and valve inside the FPR, that's what holds the pressure in the fuel system
You can take the Return fuel line off the FPR and then cycle key on and off, no fuel should come out of FPR until fuel pressure exceeds 45psi
The vacuum line just helps to stabilize that pressure when engine is running
3rd party FPRs work fine, not sure one is better than another
FPR holds pressure same as check valve after key off
Engine running pressure that is low can be cause by FPR or fuel pump itself, not check valve
FPR holds pressure same as check valve after key off
Engine running pressure that is low can be cause by FPR or fuel pump itself, not check valve
My truck has been running lean for years, I changed IAC Valve checked all vaccuum hosed took the plug off the IAC valve it stalled. Im thinking its a pump going bad, When I first got stuck crank no start I poured gas in the throttle body it started. Shut it off no start. Like a week later I took the plug off throttle position sensor, started right up. Shut it off to put new sensor on no start. Thats when I hooked up fuel pressur gauge KOEO went to 35lbs, shut it off dropped to 0lbs instantly. When I turn the key I hear the pump.
I was also wondering I was going to get a noid light and IAC tester and it comes with a noid light ford TBI will that work with my Ranger?
A Ford IAC Tester???
I thought Ford always use solenoid type, not stepper motor type
Noid light works with any 12volt system, as long as it has the connector set with it to plug it in to the wiring harness
Connector set is for the different plugs used on injectors in different years
TBI is throttle body injection which was 2 or 4 injectors in place of a carb, connector may or may not be the same as standalone injector, you have to look at pictures of both
A 12v test light will work to test if there is a pulse from computer
But a Noid light is made to use while injector is also hooked up it will flash and will also allow injector to work, so you can watch it with engine running to see if its "missing" a pulse or 2 while engine is idling and matches a cylinder misfire
I thought Ford always use solenoid type, not stepper motor type
Noid light works with any 12volt system, as long as it has the connector set with it to plug it in to the wiring harness
Connector set is for the different plugs used on injectors in different years
TBI is throttle body injection which was 2 or 4 injectors in place of a carb, connector may or may not be the same as standalone injector, you have to look at pictures of both
A 12v test light will work to test if there is a pulse from computer
But a Noid light is made to use while injector is also hooked up it will flash and will also allow injector to work, so you can watch it with engine running to see if its "missing" a pulse or 2 while engine is idling and matches a cylinder misfire
A Ford IAC Tester???
I thought Ford always use solenoid type, not stepper motor type
Noid light works with any 12volt system, as long as it has the connector set with it to plug it in to the wiring harness
Connector set is for the different plugs used on injectors in different years
TBI is throttle body injection which was 2 or 4 injectors in place of a carb, connector may or may not be the same as standalone injector, you have to look at pictures of both
A 12v test light will work to test if there is a pulse from computer
But a Noid light is made to use while injector is also hooked up it will flash and will also allow injector to work, so you can watch it with engine running to see if its "missing" a pulse or 2 while engine is idling and matches a cylinder misfire
I thought Ford always use solenoid type, not stepper motor type
Noid light works with any 12volt system, as long as it has the connector set with it to plug it in to the wiring harness
Connector set is for the different plugs used on injectors in different years
TBI is throttle body injection which was 2 or 4 injectors in place of a carb, connector may or may not be the same as standalone injector, you have to look at pictures of both
A 12v test light will work to test if there is a pulse from computer
But a Noid light is made to use while injector is also hooked up it will flash and will also allow injector to work, so you can watch it with engine running to see if its "missing" a pulse or 2 while engine is idling and matches a cylinder misfire
No, unless it was shorted out
TPS at WOT(wide open throttle) shuts off injectors when cranking engine over, its called "Clear Flooded Engine" mode, built in to all fuel injection computers
What brand of Fuel Pump did you use?
3rd party often need to be replaced a few times(under warranty) to get one that will last
TPS at WOT(wide open throttle) shuts off injectors when cranking engine over, its called "Clear Flooded Engine" mode, built in to all fuel injection computers
What brand of Fuel Pump did you use?
3rd party often need to be replaced a few times(under warranty) to get one that will last
No, unless it was shorted out
TPS at WOT(wide open throttle) shuts off injectors when cranking engine over, its called "Clear Flooded Engine" mode, built in to all fuel injection computers
What brand of Fuel Pump did you use?
3rd party often need to be replaced a few times(under warranty) to get one that will last
TPS at WOT(wide open throttle) shuts off injectors when cranking engine over, its called "Clear Flooded Engine" mode, built in to all fuel injection computers
What brand of Fuel Pump did you use?
3rd party often need to be replaced a few times(under warranty) to get one that will last
Don't assume it works every time
You should be able to HEAR a fuel pump run for 2 seconds when key is first turn on, it only runs for 2 seconds, its a safety thing
A HUMMMMM from behind the cab
It does this EACH TIME key is turned from off to on
So repeat key off and on until you KNOW what it sounds like
So if there is another no start you can listen for the new pump coming on or NOT coming on
There is no "pressure switch" and you can't over pressurize the system, so every time key is turned on you should hear the fuel pump HUMMMM
These days you can end up chasing your tail if you assume a "new" part "works", lol
Quality control is gone, extended warranties replaced it, lol
You should be able to HEAR a fuel pump run for 2 seconds when key is first turn on, it only runs for 2 seconds, its a safety thing
A HUMMMMM from behind the cab
It does this EACH TIME key is turned from off to on
So repeat key off and on until you KNOW what it sounds like
So if there is another no start you can listen for the new pump coming on or NOT coming on
There is no "pressure switch" and you can't over pressurize the system, so every time key is turned on you should hear the fuel pump HUMMMM
These days you can end up chasing your tail if you assume a "new" part "works", lol
Quality control is gone, extended warranties replaced it, lol
Don't assume it works every time
You should be able to HEAR a fuel pump run for 2 seconds when key is first turn on, it only runs for 2 seconds, its a safety thing
A HUMMMMM from behind the cab
It does this EACH TIME key is turned from off to on
So repeat key off and on until you KNOW what it sounds like
So if there is another no start you can listen for the new pump coming on or NOT coming on
There is no "pressure switch" and you can't over pressurize the system, so every time key is turned on you should hear the fuel pump HUMMMM
These days you can end up chasing your tail if you assume a "new" part "works", lol
Quality control is gone, extended warranties replaced it, lol
You should be able to HEAR a fuel pump run for 2 seconds when key is first turn on, it only runs for 2 seconds, its a safety thing
A HUMMMMM from behind the cab
It does this EACH TIME key is turned from off to on
So repeat key off and on until you KNOW what it sounds like
So if there is another no start you can listen for the new pump coming on or NOT coming on
There is no "pressure switch" and you can't over pressurize the system, so every time key is turned on you should hear the fuel pump HUMMMM
These days you can end up chasing your tail if you assume a "new" part "works", lol
Quality control is gone, extended warranties replaced it, lol
Put pressure gauge back on start engine then shut it off
Pressure should stay above say 15psi...............for MONTHS
If its dropping to 0psi then you could indeed be getting a flooded engine if an injector is leaking fuel into the engine
Only two ways to get a flooded engine with fuel injection in a 1995, injector leaking or Fuel Pressure Regulator leak gasoline into its Vacuum hose
But injector leaking should only flood out 1 cylinder, injectors are at the bottom of the intake runners/passages, so the fuel can't run uphill to get into another cylinder
Its possible the fuel rail is leaking fuel into runners, 3rd way, lol
After shutting off the warm engine pull off the air plenum from throttle body, open throttle and smell for gasoline, should be NO SMELL of gasoline at all, 0, none, nada
When you shut off the key the injectors close instantly and engine rpms slow down to 0, which sucks out ANY residual fuel smell
So if you smell fuel then its leaking in, warm engine/intake makes any gasoline easy to smell
If you don't smell fuel then its for sure not a flooding issue
Pressure should stay above say 15psi...............for MONTHS
If its dropping to 0psi then you could indeed be getting a flooded engine if an injector is leaking fuel into the engine
Only two ways to get a flooded engine with fuel injection in a 1995, injector leaking or Fuel Pressure Regulator leak gasoline into its Vacuum hose
But injector leaking should only flood out 1 cylinder, injectors are at the bottom of the intake runners/passages, so the fuel can't run uphill to get into another cylinder
Its possible the fuel rail is leaking fuel into runners, 3rd way, lol
After shutting off the warm engine pull off the air plenum from throttle body, open throttle and smell for gasoline, should be NO SMELL of gasoline at all, 0, none, nada
When you shut off the key the injectors close instantly and engine rpms slow down to 0, which sucks out ANY residual fuel smell
So if you smell fuel then its leaking in, warm engine/intake makes any gasoline easy to smell
If you don't smell fuel then its for sure not a flooding issue
Put pressure gauge back on start engine then shut it off
Pressure should stay above say 15psi...............for MONTHS
If its dropping to 0psi then you could indeed be getting a flooded engine if an injector is leaking fuel into the engine
Only two ways to get a flooded engine with fuel injection in a 1995, injector leaking or Fuel Pressure Regulator leak gasoline into its Vacuum hose
But injector leaking should only flood out 1 cylinder, injectors are at the bottom of the intake runners/passages, so the fuel can't run uphill to get into another cylinder
Its possible the fuel rail is leaking fuel into runners, 3rd way, lol
After shutting off the warm engine pull off the air plenum from throttle body, open throttle and smell for gasoline, should be NO SMELL of gasoline at all, 0, none, nada
When you shut off the key the injectors close instantly and engine rpms slow down to 0, which sucks out ANY residual fuel smell
So if you smell fuel then its leaking in, warm engine/intake makes any gasoline easy to smell
If you don't smell fuel then its for sure not a flooding issue
Pressure should stay above say 15psi...............for MONTHS
If its dropping to 0psi then you could indeed be getting a flooded engine if an injector is leaking fuel into the engine
Only two ways to get a flooded engine with fuel injection in a 1995, injector leaking or Fuel Pressure Regulator leak gasoline into its Vacuum hose
But injector leaking should only flood out 1 cylinder, injectors are at the bottom of the intake runners/passages, so the fuel can't run uphill to get into another cylinder
Its possible the fuel rail is leaking fuel into runners, 3rd way, lol
After shutting off the warm engine pull off the air plenum from throttle body, open throttle and smell for gasoline, should be NO SMELL of gasoline at all, 0, none, nada
When you shut off the key the injectors close instantly and engine rpms slow down to 0, which sucks out ANY residual fuel smell
So if you smell fuel then its leaking in, warm engine/intake makes any gasoline easy to smell
If you don't smell fuel then its for sure not a flooding issue
Im sorry I meant the bed of the tow truck!
Today I took the tool box, the liner and the bed off. I took the pump out and the sending unit was sticky. It wouldnt go up and down freely. I straightened the float a little bit it wnt up and down better.Put the fuel pump back in made sure medel ring went into its grooves sealed nice and tight. Plugged the plug in attached fuel lines. Went into truck turned key no priming noise. It started rpm went to about 3000 a few min came down to about 1000. I shut it off and it wouldnt start crank no start.
Very odd it started with 0 fuel pressure??
With fuel lines off pressure is 0psi
That's a puzzler
Make sure 4 wire connector on tank is clean and dry and good metal to metal contact inside
Fuel pump must prime for 2 seconds with key on, and each time key is turned from off to on
If fuel gauge working?
With fuel lines off pressure is 0psi
That's a puzzler
Make sure 4 wire connector on tank is clean and dry and good metal to metal contact inside
Fuel pump must prime for 2 seconds with key on, and each time key is turned from off to on
If fuel gauge working?


