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Old Mar 25, 2021
  #26  
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From: Brick, New Jersey
Originally Posted by RonD
Very odd it started with 0 fuel pressure??
With fuel lines off pressure is 0psi

That's a puzzler
Make sure 4 wire connector on tank is clean and dry and good metal to metal contact inside
Fuel pump must prime for 2 seconds with key on, and each time key is turned from off to on

If fuel gauge working?
I did clean it with a pick made sure everything was clean and good contact. But still no prime noise. The sending unit was sticky you had to push it to drop down. So Im sending the pump back and the new one should arrive Tom. Delphi says its a Premium Pump according to Rock Auto.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021
  #27  
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3rd party fuel pump assembly's are a roll of the dice, keep warranty where you can find it
 
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Old Apr 11, 2021
  #28  
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From: Brick, New Jersey
Fuel Pump

Originally Posted by RonD
3rd party fuel pump assembly's are a roll of the dice, keep warranty where you can find it
New Update: I replaced the fuel pump again. Delphi HP10144. I also changed the fuel pressure regulayor Motorcraft. I am still getting the same result, it starts up runs fine, than when you shut it off and go to start again it is flooded. So now I believe its one or more of the fuel injectors. I didnt see any one of them leaking while it was running, so I am going to try to diagnose the injectors I will give update!!!
 
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Old Apr 11, 2021
  #29  
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Use "Clear flooded engine mode" to see if an injector is leaking

Key on
Press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down
Crank engine
It should not fire or start, fuel injectors are off

If it fires or starts then could be leaking injector

Repeat the same test BUT............disable spark this time
Crank engine a few times, gas pedal to the floor
Pull out spark plugs
The WET tip has the leaking injector

 
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Old Apr 18, 2021
  #30  
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Ne Update: I took the truck for a ride to pick up my wife about 8 miles going 35-40 mph most of the ride. I had my scanner plugged in I wanted to see if there was any misfire codes. When I got there the temp was 1 degree F. went to -13 and back to 1. I figure thermostat is stuck open, temp on dash was normal. So I got P0125 code which has to do with the coolant. No other codes. The short term fuel trim on drivers side was 99% on passenger side about 4.7%. So that is telling me the leak is on drivers side. When I was coming home i didnt even have to step on the gas for it to go 35mph. Can that be O-rings on the fuel injectors or does that mean injectors are shot. I tried to price Motorcraft fuel injectors but I cant find them even on ebay. 1995 ford ranger xlt 6cyl 4.0. I find the 4cyl ones and even 3.0 but not mine HELP!!!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2021
  #31  
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Well what was the Outside temp at the time?

Engine can't be colder than outside temp, its impossible

P0125 coolant/engine not warm enough for closed loop
This code is set if engine coolant has not gotten above 150degF within 5 minutes of start up
This also means O2 sensors are not, can not, being used

There are two temp readers on fuel injected engines
12volt dash temp gauge sender
5volt computer temp sensor(ECT sensor)<<this is the one you read with scanner

So reads like your ECT sensor is bad wire are
ECT gets 5volts, then sends back 4volts for 32degF(0degC) and then 0.5volt for warmed up, 190degF(90degC)


And you dash temp gauge would be up close to half if thermostat was stuck open
 
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Old Apr 18, 2021
  #32  
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From: Brick, New Jersey
Originally Posted by RonD
Well what was the Outside temp at the time?

Engine can't be colder than outside temp, its impossible

P0125 coolant/engine not warm enough for closed loop
This code is set if engine coolant has not gotten above 150degF within 5 minutes of start up
This also means O2 sensors are not, can not, being used

There are two temp readers on fuel injected engines
12volt dash temp gauge sender
5volt computer temp sensor(ECT sensor)<<this is the one you read with scanner

So reads like your ECT sensor is bad wire are
ECT gets 5volts, then sends back 4volts for 32degF(0degC) and then 0.5volt for warmed up, 190degF(90degC)


And you dash temp gauge would be up close to half if thermostat was stuck open
It was about 40degrees out. and the fan kept on trying to go on but shut off right away. You can hear it clicking on and off. The dash temp was right under half!!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2021
  #33  
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Well ECT sensor is not right

And "what fan"???

1995 4.0l uses a fan clutch, no on and off
 
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Old Apr 19, 2021
  #34  
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From: Brick, New Jersey
Originally Posted by RonD
Well ECT sensor is not right

And "what fan"???

1995 4.0l uses a fan clutch, no on and off
If the thermostat was stuck open wouldnt the temp stay cool, coolant keeps running through upper rad hose without it going up to 190 degrees..
 
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Old Apr 19, 2021
  #35  
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Yes that would be stuck open thermostat
After starting the engine feel the upper rad hose(at radiator end) and the heater hose, should both be cold
Feel again after 2 min of idle, heater hose should be getting warm, upper rad hose should still be cold, if its warming up then thermostat is open when it should be closed
 
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Old Apr 28, 2021
  #36  
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From: Brick, New Jersey
Originally Posted by RonD
Yes that would be stuck open thermostat
After starting the engine feel the upper rad hose(at radiator end) and the heater hose, should both be cold
Feel again after 2 min of idle, heater hose should be getting warm, upper rad hose should still be cold, if its warming up then thermostat is open when it should be closed
I changed the coolant Temperature sender sensor., flushed the radiator, put ne coolant and themostat. Now somehow that fixed my flooding issue. I believe I at least hve to get the repair kit for the fuel injectors or should I get new injectors.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2021
  #37  
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If you live near a big city check if there are local injector rebuilders, its usually $25-$30 each and they often have same injectors already rebuild so you bring yours in, pay the money and walk out with rebuild injectors, vs two trips

I personally don't think there is any advantage in "new" injectors, just the convenience of buying them, without any exchange
 
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Old Jun 12, 2021
  #38  
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Originally Posted by RonD
If you live near a big city check if there are local injector rebuilders, its usually $25-$30 each and they often have same injectors already rebuild so you bring yours in, pay the money and walk out with rebuild injectors, vs two trips

I personally don't think there is any advantage in "new" injectors, just the convenience of buying them, without any exchange
I kept the fuel injectors and put new o-rings on them and everything rns well now, but my truck doesnt want me to stop working on her. I went to go fill the tank and it leaked out on the ground. Fuel filler neck. I just did this job 1-1 1/2 years ago. Is there differant quality filler necks?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2021
  #39  
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Apparently there IS different quality, but didn't know that until now..............lol
 
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Old Jun 12, 2021
  #40  
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Yes I didnt know that a year ago. I went to look up fuel filler neck online this guy posted if the neck is gold inside its a good one mine isnt and if you have these medal things taped around the hose with electrical tape thats the worst hose and only last like a year and thats what mine has. Im looking more into it I saw one at Rock Auto the hose was corded inside . I may try that one. More money but if it lasts its worth it..
 
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