Not Starting
Very odd it started with 0 fuel pressure??
With fuel lines off pressure is 0psi
That's a puzzler
Make sure 4 wire connector on tank is clean and dry and good metal to metal contact inside
Fuel pump must prime for 2 seconds with key on, and each time key is turned from off to on
If fuel gauge working?
With fuel lines off pressure is 0psi
That's a puzzler
Make sure 4 wire connector on tank is clean and dry and good metal to metal contact inside
Fuel pump must prime for 2 seconds with key on, and each time key is turned from off to on
If fuel gauge working?
Fuel Pump
Use "Clear flooded engine mode" to see if an injector is leaking
Key on
Press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down
Crank engine
It should not fire or start, fuel injectors are off
If it fires or starts then could be leaking injector
Repeat the same test BUT............disable spark this time
Crank engine a few times, gas pedal to the floor
Pull out spark plugs
The WET tip has the leaking injector
Key on
Press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down
Crank engine
It should not fire or start, fuel injectors are off
If it fires or starts then could be leaking injector
Repeat the same test BUT............disable spark this time
Crank engine a few times, gas pedal to the floor
Pull out spark plugs
The WET tip has the leaking injector
Ne Update: I took the truck for a ride to pick up my wife about 8 miles going 35-40 mph most of the ride. I had my scanner plugged in I wanted to see if there was any misfire codes. When I got there the temp was 1 degree F. went to -13 and back to 1. I figure thermostat is stuck open, temp on dash was normal. So I got P0125 code which has to do with the coolant. No other codes. The short term fuel trim on drivers side was 99% on passenger side about 4.7%. So that is telling me the leak is on drivers side. When I was coming home i didnt even have to step on the gas for it to go 35mph. Can that be O-rings on the fuel injectors or does that mean injectors are shot. I tried to price Motorcraft fuel injectors but I cant find them even on ebay. 1995 ford ranger xlt 6cyl 4.0. I find the 4cyl ones and even 3.0 but not mine HELP!!!
Well what was the Outside temp at the time?
Engine can't be colder than outside temp, its impossible
P0125 coolant/engine not warm enough for closed loop
This code is set if engine coolant has not gotten above 150degF within 5 minutes of start up
This also means O2 sensors are not, can not, being used
There are two temp readers on fuel injected engines
12volt dash temp gauge sender
5volt computer temp sensor(ECT sensor)<<this is the one you read with scanner
So reads like your ECT sensor is bad wire are
ECT gets 5volts, then sends back 4volts for 32degF(0degC) and then 0.5volt for warmed up, 190degF(90degC)
And you dash temp gauge would be up close to half if thermostat was stuck open
Engine can't be colder than outside temp, its impossible
P0125 coolant/engine not warm enough for closed loop
This code is set if engine coolant has not gotten above 150degF within 5 minutes of start up
This also means O2 sensors are not, can not, being used
There are two temp readers on fuel injected engines
12volt dash temp gauge sender
5volt computer temp sensor(ECT sensor)<<this is the one you read with scanner
So reads like your ECT sensor is bad wire are
ECT gets 5volts, then sends back 4volts for 32degF(0degC) and then 0.5volt for warmed up, 190degF(90degC)
And you dash temp gauge would be up close to half if thermostat was stuck open
Well what was the Outside temp at the time?
Engine can't be colder than outside temp, its impossible
P0125 coolant/engine not warm enough for closed loop
This code is set if engine coolant has not gotten above 150degF within 5 minutes of start up
This also means O2 sensors are not, can not, being used
There are two temp readers on fuel injected engines
12volt dash temp gauge sender
5volt computer temp sensor(ECT sensor)<<this is the one you read with scanner
So reads like your ECT sensor is bad wire are
ECT gets 5volts, then sends back 4volts for 32degF(0degC) and then 0.5volt for warmed up, 190degF(90degC)
And you dash temp gauge would be up close to half if thermostat was stuck open
Engine can't be colder than outside temp, its impossible
P0125 coolant/engine not warm enough for closed loop
This code is set if engine coolant has not gotten above 150degF within 5 minutes of start up
This also means O2 sensors are not, can not, being used
There are two temp readers on fuel injected engines
12volt dash temp gauge sender
5volt computer temp sensor(ECT sensor)<<this is the one you read with scanner
So reads like your ECT sensor is bad wire are
ECT gets 5volts, then sends back 4volts for 32degF(0degC) and then 0.5volt for warmed up, 190degF(90degC)
And you dash temp gauge would be up close to half if thermostat was stuck open
Yes that would be stuck open thermostat
After starting the engine feel the upper rad hose(at radiator end) and the heater hose, should both be cold
Feel again after 2 min of idle, heater hose should be getting warm, upper rad hose should still be cold, if its warming up then thermostat is open when it should be closed
After starting the engine feel the upper rad hose(at radiator end) and the heater hose, should both be cold
Feel again after 2 min of idle, heater hose should be getting warm, upper rad hose should still be cold, if its warming up then thermostat is open when it should be closed
Yes that would be stuck open thermostat
After starting the engine feel the upper rad hose(at radiator end) and the heater hose, should both be cold
Feel again after 2 min of idle, heater hose should be getting warm, upper rad hose should still be cold, if its warming up then thermostat is open when it should be closed
After starting the engine feel the upper rad hose(at radiator end) and the heater hose, should both be cold
Feel again after 2 min of idle, heater hose should be getting warm, upper rad hose should still be cold, if its warming up then thermostat is open when it should be closed
If you live near a big city check if there are local injector rebuilders, its usually $25-$30 each and they often have same injectors already rebuild so you bring yours in, pay the money and walk out with rebuild injectors, vs two trips
I personally don't think there is any advantage in "new" injectors, just the convenience of buying them, without any exchange
I personally don't think there is any advantage in "new" injectors, just the convenience of buying them, without any exchange
If you live near a big city check if there are local injector rebuilders, its usually $25-$30 each and they often have same injectors already rebuild so you bring yours in, pay the money and walk out with rebuild injectors, vs two trips
I personally don't think there is any advantage in "new" injectors, just the convenience of buying them, without any exchange
I personally don't think there is any advantage in "new" injectors, just the convenience of buying them, without any exchange
Yes I didnt know that a year ago. I went to look up fuel filler neck online this guy posted if the neck is gold inside its a good one mine isnt and if you have these medal things taped around the hose with electrical tape thats the worst hose and only last like a year and thats what mine has. Im looking more into it I saw one at Rock Auto the hose was corded inside . I may try that one. More money but if it lasts its worth it..
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