Another "What would you do?" ranger '05
#26
01-25-2010
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^^ The roll pan is a body panel that goes under your tailgate to replace your rear bumper. Like the white truck in the first picture.
I cant believe they told you you had a month on that wheel! I wouldn't drive on that at all! As for mods fix that dent in your bedside lol. And i say lower it and keep the black theme going. NIghtshade tail lights or black/clear led taillights. Black wheels,,, you can see where I'm going! lol
I cant believe they told you you had a month on that wheel! I wouldn't drive on that at all! As for mods fix that dent in your bedside lol. And i say lower it and keep the black theme going. NIghtshade tail lights or black/clear led taillights. Black wheels,,, you can see where I'm going! lol
Im basically going to be putting my spare on tomorrow before i drive anywhere! i have been driving on that rim for close to say 2 years now. Its obviously gotten worse...
first and fore most....get off that rim like yesterday!!!
who every put a time limit on how long that rim would hold up, is an idiot and should never be trusted. no one can predict how long the integrity will last in a situation like yours.
that aside, are you willing to lift or lower your truck?
to lower it, i say go with the shackle flip ^^^ to level it out.(fabrication needed; $=?)
to lift it, i say 3in body lift($120-240), 2in chevy drop shackles($40 at pepboys for good ones) and torsion bar crank(free). rims and tires.... $=?
out of those options, i say lift it!!! my motto is dump the cars and lift the trucks. if you want to lower a vehicle, get a car. you can say "im biased" because i have a lifted truck but i think you'll be much happier with a lifted truck. the sky is the limit..... you can only go so low to you wont go any more. literally....
who every put a time limit on how long that rim would hold up, is an idiot and should never be trusted. no one can predict how long the integrity will last in a situation like yours.
that aside, are you willing to lift or lower your truck?
to lower it, i say go with the shackle flip ^^^ to level it out.(fabrication needed; $=?)
to lift it, i say 3in body lift($120-240), 2in chevy drop shackles($40 at pepboys for good ones) and torsion bar crank(free). rims and tires.... $=?
out of those options, i say lift it!!! my motto is dump the cars and lift the trucks. if you want to lower a vehicle, get a car. you can say "im biased" because i have a lifted truck but i think you'll be much happier with a lifted truck. the sky is the limit..... you can only go so low to you wont go any more. literally....
#27
01-25-2010
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i would suggest going with some 15x8 black rock crawler rims.... your bolt pattern is 5x4.5
tires i would suggest looking at pepboys. they are not the best but they have great deals like "buy three, get the forth tire free" and they are very reasonably priced. i bought a set of 33x12.50R15 Hankook DynaPro M/T's for $987.76 and im getting a check for $199.99. they have a great ride and they are pro rated for 80,000 miles. anyone know of a mud terrain that carries a better prorating? their Dakota A/T carries a 50,000 prorating.
and if your doing the 3" body, i say do the t-bar crank(its free and gives you 2") and spend the extra $40 to bring the back up to give it its normal rake. if you dont, as soon as you put weight in the back it will sag...
sag =
tires i would suggest looking at pepboys. they are not the best but they have great deals like "buy three, get the forth tire free" and they are very reasonably priced. i bought a set of 33x12.50R15 Hankook DynaPro M/T's for $987.76 and im getting a check for $199.99. they have a great ride and they are pro rated for 80,000 miles. anyone know of a mud terrain that carries a better prorating? their Dakota A/T carries a 50,000 prorating.
and if your doing the 3" body, i say do the t-bar crank(its free and gives you 2") and spend the extra $40 to bring the back up to give it its normal rake. if you dont, as soon as you put weight in the back it will sag...
sag =
#28
01-25-2010
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Location: Orange County, California
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i would suggest going with some 15x8 black rock crawler rims.... your bolt pattern is 5x4.5
tires i would suggest looking at pepboys. they are not the best but they have great deals like "buy three, get the forth tire free" and they are very reasonably priced. i bought a set of 33x12.50R15 Hankook DynaPro M/T's for $987.76 and im getting a check for $199.99. they have a great ride and they are pro rated for 80,000 miles. anyone know of a mud terrain that carries a better prorating? their Dakota A/T carries a 50,000 prorating.
and if your doing the 3" body, i say do the t-bar crank(its free and gives you 2") and spend the extra $40 to bring the back up to give it its normal rake. if you dont, as soon as you put weight in the back it will sag...
sag =
tires i would suggest looking at pepboys. they are not the best but they have great deals like "buy three, get the forth tire free" and they are very reasonably priced. i bought a set of 33x12.50R15 Hankook DynaPro M/T's for $987.76 and im getting a check for $199.99. they have a great ride and they are pro rated for 80,000 miles. anyone know of a mud terrain that carries a better prorating? their Dakota A/T carries a 50,000 prorating.
and if your doing the 3" body, i say do the t-bar crank(its free and gives you 2") and spend the extra $40 to bring the back up to give it its normal rake. if you dont, as soon as you put weight in the back it will sag...
sag =
Found a pic of the black rock crawler rims
Is that them? I found a site online that runs each rim around $74 which isn't too bad.
As for tires, i was most likely going to head over to pep boys and see what they can do for me. But those rims (15x8) will fit 33" tires?
What do you guys think is my best bet, ordering rims online.. then going to a shop like pep boys and getting some tires. Or go to some 4X4 shop and get it all done at once. I want to get my 3" lift first but it will look horrible with my current stock wheels and rims..
Will the 33" tires fit on my truck without the lift? or should i get lift first.. Sorry just alittle bit confused on what order i should do this.
Thanks,
#29
01-25-2010
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#31
01-26-2010
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2 things i'm going to say about socks and shoes, steelies look horrible!
and Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels trust me!
and Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels trust me!
I like black rims as a starter. Whenever i find some "nice" ones im going to buy and put them on with my stock wheels for now (budget issues) but once i do have enough money i will put some 33's on the rims along with a 3" lift.
Thanks again everyone who has replied
:)
#33
01-26-2010
#34
01-26-2010
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WOW
Edit: adding to list of near- future mods
#35
01-26-2010
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Looking to buy new rims, if i did come across a great deal i wouldn't pass it up. Getting new rims on my truck is something im going to do within these next few days.
It's literally a hazard on what i've been driving on and seriously im suprised my rim hasn't cracked yet. I took a picture of one of the rims, my right-rear rim is also cracked just not nearly as bad as the rim i took a picture of.
Im hoping to come across some rims like tomorrow or the next day... only thing is im going to have the rims on my CURRENT tires since i just recently bought them a few months back. So for now it looks like i'll be getting just the rims until i have enough to get the tires/lift at the same time.
I still really have no idea what rims would look good on my truck, i really don't have a so-callled "eye" for that type of stuff.
It's literally a hazard on what i've been driving on and seriously im suprised my rim hasn't cracked yet. I took a picture of one of the rims, my right-rear rim is also cracked just not nearly as bad as the rim i took a picture of.
Im hoping to come across some rims like tomorrow or the next day... only thing is im going to have the rims on my CURRENT tires since i just recently bought them a few months back. So for now it looks like i'll be getting just the rims until i have enough to get the tires/lift at the same time.
I still really have no idea what rims would look good on my truck, i really don't have a so-callled "eye" for that type of stuff.
#37
01-26-2010
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i wont be going with any sort of lift anyways for another 1-2 months (save up money) so i do still have time to think about this. As of now ill be doing the t-bar "lift"
#38
01-26-2010
#39
01-26-2010
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#40
01-26-2010
front, all you have is torsion crank or keys, which wear all your front end parts, and don't do anything for your ride quality or suspension travel (4wd) there is super lift, which moves everything down, doesn't give a suspension advantage... next would be a coil over conversion, which the cheapest kit i have seen is 650$ and adds no lift or a SAS...
rear, you can do chevy shackles or blocks, which give no benefit over a body lift, or add a leaf, which will make the back end more solid... or you could put a custom spring in...
so i disagree, for our trucks... but in general, i have always thought that suspension lifts are much better than body, but it doesn't hurt to have both...
#41
01-26-2010
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okay thanks for clearing that up
Okay i get where you are coming from, i really don't run my truck that hard and if i do go "offroading" im just driving down some dirt path.. If i was planning on running my truck hard i wouldn't go with a lift like you said.
If i had anything but a ranger i would go with a suspension lift, but when i do get a lift a couple months from now it will just be a body lift.
on our trucks, you don't get any benefit to 90% of the suspension lifts either.
front, all you have is torsion crank or keys, which wear all your front end parts, and don't do anything for your ride quality or suspension travel (4wd) there is super lift, which moves everything down, doesn't give a suspension advantage... next would be a coil over conversion, which the cheapest kit i have seen is 650$ and adds no lift or a SAS...
rear, you can do chevy shackles or blocks, which give no benefit over a body lift, or add a leaf, which will make the back end more solid... or you could put a custom spring in...
so i disagree, for our trucks... but in general, i have always thought that suspension lifts are much better than body, but it doesn't hurt to have both...
front, all you have is torsion crank or keys, which wear all your front end parts, and don't do anything for your ride quality or suspension travel (4wd) there is super lift, which moves everything down, doesn't give a suspension advantage... next would be a coil over conversion, which the cheapest kit i have seen is 650$ and adds no lift or a SAS...
rear, you can do chevy shackles or blocks, which give no benefit over a body lift, or add a leaf, which will make the back end more solid... or you could put a custom spring in...
so i disagree, for our trucks... but in general, i have always thought that suspension lifts are much better than body, but it doesn't hurt to have both...
#42
01-26-2010
#44
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#45
01-27-2010
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i hope this reaches you in time before you made your rim purchase.
i previously mentioned that you should run 15x8. i took a look at your truck and noticed you will run into a problem. your current rim size is 16x7. if you plan to buy rims and use the tires you currently have, you should go with a 16x8.
with that being said, you will run into a few minor problems. there is a smaller selection of tire sizes and brands for a 16" rim compared to that of 15", 17", 18", 20". plus 16" tires generally uses the metric system. IE: 285/75R16 is equivalent to a 33x11.50R16(32.8x11.4R16 to be exact). i dropped down to 15", myself, for a wider tire selection.
in other cases, not like yours, i would suggest that you wait to buy 15", but you need rims asap.
as an offer, i could sell you my old rims for $150+shipping. they are exactly the same as the ones you currently have.
i previously mentioned that you should run 15x8. i took a look at your truck and noticed you will run into a problem. your current rim size is 16x7. if you plan to buy rims and use the tires you currently have, you should go with a 16x8.
with that being said, you will run into a few minor problems. there is a smaller selection of tire sizes and brands for a 16" rim compared to that of 15", 17", 18", 20". plus 16" tires generally uses the metric system. IE: 285/75R16 is equivalent to a 33x11.50R16(32.8x11.4R16 to be exact). i dropped down to 15", myself, for a wider tire selection.
in other cases, not like yours, i would suggest that you wait to buy 15", but you need rims asap.
as an offer, i could sell you my old rims for $150+shipping. they are exactly the same as the ones you currently have.
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