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Better towing mod suggestions

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Old Aug 17, 2009
  #26  
Melt's Avatar
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From: Denver, CO
Originally Posted by BlutoBodine
I tow one of these 6x12's about once a week, 20-50 miles, through the hills, with my 2.3 and all I've upgraded are the pads and and added load assist rear shocks.
very nice those trailers are heavy ... before i had my own pickup bed trailer i rented a 5x8 which uhaul let me hook up to the bumper lol

anyhow .... as for the OP i seen someone with a subaru outback towing a setup similar to what you have and i couldnt believe it so your truck should be fine
 
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Old Aug 18, 2009
  #27  
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From: South Detroit.
wow another morris.... we's multiplying!!!!


seriously, your truck should handle that extra weight with no problem. i've used my truck to haul a loaded trailer about the same size with furniture and boxes with no problems.
like others posted, i'd upgrade the stopping as well before the giddy up. until then, take it slow. why get somewhere quicker with an investment like those bikes on a trailer?
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009
  #28  
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From: Hillsboro, Oregon
Originally Posted by beefcake morris
I like the idea of just moving the stock tranny cooler into a better cooling position. Here is a picture of what I would be hauling, plus gear, and 2 people.




Hopefully you aren't towing like that without the front strapped. Those short single axle trailers bounce a lot and the front ends will walk around if they aren't strapped.
Plus it looks like you are just asking for rock chips from your rear tires if you don't put a guard on the front of the trailer.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2009
  #29  
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From: Barrington, NH
X2, strap them down.
Your truck will be fine
 
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Old Aug 23, 2009
  #30  
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From: Jacksonville, fl
One last question any benefit from doing a single in, single out or single in, dual out. I read some where the dual out the back will gives me less torq. Is there truth to that?
 
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Old Dec 27, 2009
  #31  
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Ok guys thanks for the info. The bikes are strapped down in the front before we leave that was some pictures before everything was load and done.

Next question should I up grade the rotors or would a good pair of superhawk pads be better first.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2009
  #32  
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From: Muskegon, Michigan
Originally Posted by beefcake morris
Ok guys thanks for the info. The bikes are strapped down in the front before we leave that was some pictures before everything was load and done.

Next question should I up grade the rotors or would a good pair of superhawk pads be better first.
if youre planning a brake upgrade, be sure and do rotors and pads at the same time. i have a cheap set of slotted rotors with Hawke pads and they improved my braking a ton. it def helps when im towing, the brake fade was so bad with my stock pads/ rotors it was scary.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2009
  #33  
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From: 954Fl
Originally Posted by beefcake morris
Ok guys thanks for the info. The bikes are strapped down in the front before we leave that was some pictures before everything was load and done.

Next question should I up grade the rotors or would a good pair of superhawk pads be better first.
For what you're towing you don't need aditional braking. What CB is saying is right when you get into heavier loads, but for your application, you're good with what you got
 
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Old Jan 30, 2011
  #34  
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From: KnoxVegas, TN
I use my truck all summer long with two walk behind commercial mowers and a 6x12 trailer and the weedeater, blower, and gas. You will be fine. The mowers weigh 700 lbs each and the trailer prob weighs a good 500 lbs. Heck I have pulled the same trailer with 3-4 yards of mulch with no problems. The main thing with towing is watching your stopping distance.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011
  #35  
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From: SD
what kind of rear bike straps are those? does it have a rod, that goes all the way through your axle? we ran something similar on the race bikes, and never had to tie down the front. in thousands of miles we never had one tip over, or a front end slide more than 1/8th inch.
 
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