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  #1  
Old 07-12-2005
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Heat Removal - Help!

Ok, I'm not quite sure why exactly my truck likes to run so hot, but it does and that is a problem. I have an e-fan and the thermostat control is set to the coolest level and still heats up at times...like today (outside temp 93). I know it doesnt help I have the winch mounted up front (added weight and somewhat blocks flow) and the AC on. I am trying to look at what I have that others dont since not everyone is having these issues. A couple other things I can think of...there is an auxilirary trans cooler in addition to the stock one that is mounted to the radiator, the engine is dirty, the custom skid plate adds weight and perhaps keeps hot air in or cool air from entering.

Possible solutions?

I am thinking about going with a custom bumper rather than the hitch and skid and this way i can have a redesign on the skid - make it lighter, have holes in it, etc (oh and easier to remove).

I am thinking maybe I should have the coolant flushed- think that will help? I think it was last done about 20k ago. That's atleast when the trans cooler was added so I would think the fluid was flushed. May be my making an *** of myself here assuming that.

Another possible solution involves the hood - either cutout and add the hood louvers I was talking about a while back or get a cowl hood. I saw one for a 98-00 (some sites have it as a 98-04, well i know it wont work on an 04 b/c of the redesign, but looking on here it seems it should work for 01-03). Now my question is which would provide better cooling/heat removal? The louvers or the cowl? I am still trying to get a handle on the function of the cowl...from what I have read, there is a low pressure air at the base of the windshield and this allows the cooler outside air to enter under the cowl...where does the hot air in the engine bay go? Does this only work at high speeds? Will heat extract at low speeds or at a stop? I would think at a stop since hot air rises, it could escape just as the cool air is supposed to enter.

Now to try and balance cost here. Obviously the louvers would be less $. Maybe $100-150 or so and either by a local sheet metal shop or the online vendor I found in the 4wheeler mag. This of course involves cutting the hood. The new hood which costs around $400 (plus freight I would imagine not so cheap) and plus paint ($100-150 just a guess) so figuring ballpark $600. Now some of the cost could be recovered from selling the Edge powerdome hood - maybe get $100-200 since it's already painted (as long as they want red). Trying to maintain function over form, I know the cowl would look bad ***, but which would function better? Any suggestions?

EDIT: Here's the hood by the way

Last edited by sawred; 07-12-2005 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 07-12-2005
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How many miles are on your truck, has the water pump or t-stat ever been replaced?
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  #3  
Old 07-12-2005
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No and no.
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Old 07-12-2005
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When does this happen, while sitting at a stop or while driving, if it is while sitting at a stop then the winch has nothing to do with it. While driving then thats another story.
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  #5  
Old 07-12-2005
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change thermostat for now, cheap easy (never did it on a Ranger but that is usually the case)
the skid plate and front receiver combo you have is going to be lighter than skid plate and bumper with receiver or winch carriage
hood louver is the best idea, too bad you did not carry through - stay with it

I would save quarters and remove the mud guards
you will have a dirty but cooler engine compartment

see if a larger/high volume radiator can be installed
I would also check into that water pump - it could be damaged or bad from the start
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Old 07-12-2005
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Before you go spending money... How hot is hot and what is indicating this?
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Old 07-12-2005
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I am going to pickup the 192/195 t-stat and gasket on the way home. Remove the skid plate to do the install and then let it sit for awhile and cool off. I got the install directions from TRS. Seems easy enough. Oh I gotta get coolant too when at the parts store :)

The bumper combo could easily out weight the skid setup now, but the skid now is pretty thick steel. I am trying to talk with Tom, he has a new idea he is trying and hopefully it's what I want too. I am trying to weight the options (pardon the pun), but this skid plate is a bear to get on and off. I was looking at pics of what Doc has and i think his skid plate may be easier to remove. But overall, looking at Doc's or Carl's front bumper the weight on those probably does exceed the weight of my skid.

The things I am considering are the ease of removal of the skid (for maintenance such as this), overall protection (right now nothing other than the skid) and winch mounting (moving this thing is tedious, but versatile - so much easier if I had a 4dr - not sure if I want to just mount it up front w/o the carrier). Oh and there should be some holes in the skid I think (like Doc's) for airflow (and drainage I guess).

lol.had to think about the quarters one there for a sec. Gotchya

The hood louvers faded away due to the lack of start up money and a nagging g/f :p One down, one to go
I guess a lack of motivation as well, I never got around to making those cardboard cutouts to ensure fitment. Maybe I'll bang out those cardboard pieces this week.

As far as when it happened, I noticed it sitting in traffic on the NJTP Sun. So I guess at low flow. After getting up to speed it cooled down. Also today going to lunch, mostly stop and go type driving.
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Old 07-12-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRanger
Before you go spending money... How hot is hot and what is indicating this?
Temp gage in dash is indicating this. It climbs beyond 3/4 range...i'd say maybe even 7/8. Sun I wasnt paying attention sitting in traffic listening to the truckers on the cb and it was darn close to the line. I dont know how hot is hot in numbers, just what the gage reads
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Old 07-12-2005
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If it is happening at idle or while in stop and go traffic it is either T-Stat or water pump, most likely the water pump as it cannot circulate enough either do to worn impeller or it is slipping on the shaft. Let us know.
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  #10  
Old 07-12-2005
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I have ~50k miles, big *** lights in front of my grill, warning lights and a big speaker behind the grill, a trans cooler, and AC. My temp gauge never budges even when it is 110 degrees outside sitting still. You should not have to make modifications to your hood or anything else for it to stay cool.

If the temp is climbing when you're sitting still, it probably has nothing to do with weight, bumpers, etc. It is either not getting enough air due to a fan problem or perhaps the T-Stat is not opening all the way or the pump is on it's way out and not circulating enough? I assume the system is full to rule that out? Flushing it can't hurt but I doubt it will fix it.

Try bypassing the thermostat for the fan and having it run all the time. See if that keeps it cool. If so, you know it is the fan T-Stat that isn't turning it on at the right time.
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  #11  
Old 07-12-2005
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Could always turn the defroster on and roll down the windows. The deforster will draw a lot of heat out from the engine bay but you loose the AC so you gotta roll down the windows.
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  #12  
Old 07-12-2005
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your temp will usually be higher as your in traffic in stop and go sort becuasue of the fumes and exhaust from other cars....


check you tstat for thats what regulates the ammount of coolent that flows through the system, make sure you have enough coolent, and how hot is it running? like really really hot or just a bit above normall...
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  #13  
Old 07-12-2005
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I don't think other car's exhaust is contributing to it. It is simply a lack of airflow or any of the numerous other things people have listed. If there was THAT much exhaust, we'd all be dead of CO poisoning.
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  #14  
Old 07-12-2005
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I also have a bunch of lights and a 200lbs bumper on the front with zero trouble. So I agree with the million other posts... Has to be the t-stat. I do not know where the rangers is but I know I had this problem with my Exploder... All I had to do was replce my dag gone radiator capand that fixed the problem!
I have no idea what your plans are but do yourself a favor make the plate removable.. Mine is held on by a bunch of bolts. Other wise it would be a PITA to get the sucker off for work.
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  #15  
Old 07-12-2005
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well I just finished putting my front receiver (2nd one) on and modding my skid plate
used a Hitchrite, but installed it upside down
the skid plate needed a 1.5 x 3 inch notch cut out of the front
receiver comes out through the valance hole now
license plate is on a receiver plate, all nice and legal
if I put it on right side up the winch plate was blocked by my Slimlites
thought it would take about an hour, took 4....
skid plate is now held on by 4 .5 inch bolts up front and the OEM fender screws in back
it was real fun snaking 4 .5 inch bolts through the frame
I did notice that the OEM skid plate has breather holes in the rear
plate is stamped to hold open vents when properly mounted to the cross member in the rear
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