So I've owned my 1998 Ranger for 3 years now. Ever since I've owned it, I haven't had cruise control :(... The on/off pods on the left light up but the ones on the right(resume,set,cruise) have never lit up. I replaced the pods and still they don't light up. I've checked fuses and still nothing. Could it be a faulty clockspring? I've been stuck with this problem for a long time and I've had enough. This is the third forum I've been too and still haven't got any replies

 

Welcome to the forum

Could be clockspring

Does the horn work?
Buttons for cruise and the horn share the same ground via clockspring

Here is the wiring diagram for 1998 Ranger Cruise

Looks like the lights share one clockspring wire then it splits in the steering wheel so could be a wiring problem inside the steering wheel

 

I agree with RonD. I would point my finger at the clockspring. As part of your troubleshooting process, you can perform speed control diagnostics as follows:

Speed Control Self-Test Diagnostics

WARNING: This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test that is only conducted in park with emergency brake fully engaged

* Enter diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key on, making sure the engine does not start and is not running
The speed control indicator lamp on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that the speed control module entered the diagnostic mode
Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo
Release the OFF switch

* Note: If the ON switch is not pressed within five seconds after entering diagnostic mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RSM (resume), CST (coast) and SET/ACCEL

* The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is pressed
Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the light goes out for the previous switch.

* Note: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed
If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and the additional flashes occur, follow the list below for trouble codes:

— 2 flashes: Brake pedal position (BPP) switch is defective, circuit is defective, or brake pedal is applied
Clutch pedal position (CPP) switch is defective, circuit is defective, or clutch pedal is applied.

— 3 flashes: Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is defective.

— 4 flashes: Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.

* 0.25 seconds after the static test has passed, the speed control servo will carry out a dynamic test automatically by actuating the throttle lever from 1 to 10 mm (.04 to.39 inch) of travel from the idle position
During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable, verify the correct connection of the speed control cable to the throttle lever, and make sure the throttle returns back to the idle position
If incorrect connection or binding or sticking of the speed control is observed, go to the Symptom Chart
If no dynamic pull occurs at the throttle body go to Pinpoint Test F.

* Return the ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart in the Service Manual.

Hope this helps!

 

Yes, the horn works. I've tried the self diagnostic test before but to do that you must have full power to both pods on both sides of the steering wheel. I don't have any power to the pods on the right.

 

Yes, you will need power to both pods. I posted the diags in the event you got power to the right hand pods and still had no cruise. I still think your clock spring is the culprit, though. Good luck!

 

Ok... So with investigating the clockspring issue, how would you go about it? Would you try to mess around with the wiring or would you attempt to replace the whole clockspring? I know a new clockspring can be pricy.

 

Hopefully, you have a Pull-A-Part salvage yard near you. 1996-2001 Explorers (and probably other models) have the same clockspring as the Ranger (and most Explorers had cruise), so you shouldn't have any problem finding one. Just be sure to remove the clockspring from the donor vehicle with the wheels pointing STRAIGHT AHEAD and then install it in your Ranger... again with the wheels straight ahead. This will prevent you from binding the clockspring and breaking the coiled wire. It isn't a difficult replacement... probably getting the steering wheel off is the hardest part of it. Bear in mind that the wires going down the steering column are in a couple of standoff clips, so don't try to pull it out until everything is disconnected, free and loose. :)

 

Awesome! I will do this! I'll let y'all know if it works!

 

Great! Good luck!

 

Test the wires IN the steering wheel when it is off.
If lights only work on one pod then for sure there is a problem there, as they share the same clockspring wire for lights.

 

Ok how'd you go about doing this? Like with a multimeter?

 

Yes, a multimeter is what you want to use. Since the left pods have lights and the right pods don't, there is possibly an issue with the ribbon cable going from clockspring connector to the pods. When you changed the pods, did you change the ribbon cable as well? Not trying to spin you around in different directions, but if you didn't replace or change the ribbon cable, that could possibly be your problem.

 

Yes I did change the ribbon cables as well

 

After digging in there I've found that past owner has the blue door chime thing just dangling there unplugged.. not sure if this is an issue

 

NOW IM LOST!!! After digging all through my steering column and testing wires I've found that I have continuity all the way up through my ribbon cables but now both pods aren't lighting up:/

 

That doesn't make any sense. These were new pods you installed, right?

 

They were from a pull-a-part... remember before doing all this digging the left side pods did light up

 

Looks like you found the problem then

You do have a loose or broken connector.

I don't have the "pods" on my Ranger, do these lights only come on with dash light switch or are they on all the time with key on?

In the diagram it shows power comes from "interior lighting system"

And the horn still works so you haven't lost the Ground?

 

@RonD: my '03 and my son's 1999 both light up with the dash lights.

 

Horn does indeed work. Lights only come on with dash light switch

 

Then my guess would be clockspring connection, at steering wheel end.
Could be clockspring itself, but I think both sides would have had no lights to begin with.

When "they" show a splice, like with the lights on separate "pods", the splice can just be at the connector, not at a separate spot.
So moving around the ribbon cables just broke the other wire loose

The NCA(no color available) on wiring diagrams is a PITA just have to hope you can ID the correct wires to test.
That clockspring wire should have 12v when lights are on and 0v with lights off

 

Ok thank you for sticking with me this long! I'm now going back in the shop to work on it. I will check the voltage in the clockspring wire and see if it comes up at 12v. If it does and I still have continuity up to the pods through the ribbon I suppose new pods will be the answer

 

Ok so after putting everything back together they did not light up, however after pulling out of the garage and turning the wheel a few times the left side pods are back to being lit up. This makes me think the clock spring is the culprit.

 

I agree. Looking more and more like clockspring to me.