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question about oil and oil filters

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  #51  
Old 10-30-2007
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I mostly run Penzoil and Penzoil filters on my cars but sometimes it might be a dealer oil change and sometimes it might be a home change with fram filters or whatever is the cheapest filter I can get. The oil in my Ranger gets changed every 2800 miles and my Corolla is done at 5400 miles which is every month for both of them. I put 700 miles on every day that I run them and thats all on the highway almost non stop.

I was running a 02 Dodge Caravan with a 3.3ltr a year and a half ago and the oil got changed every 12,500 miles and from day one it it got the cheapest filters and same with the oil and a deer totaled that van with 546,000 miles on the clock with the engine the factory gave it and the nothing was done to it except for one starter and one alternator.

Now I don't recomend any of this for a daily A to B driver that puts less than 15 miles on the truck per trip. You need to keep your oil clean and good filters on them and for a good part of that you can't go wrong with a dealer filter and good quality oil. My engines don't get time to cool down and for the sludge to build up.
 
  #52  
Old 10-30-2007
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You mean Kilometers, not miles correct?
 
  #53  
Old 10-30-2007
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Originally Posted by greygooseranger
You mean Kilometers, not miles correct?
Nope thats miles.

My Ranger gets 4,400 Kms per month and the Corolla gets 8,800 Kms per month and the Dodge minivan had 875,000 kms on it but we did hit 1,017,000 on a 92 Dodge Caravan but that took a few motors and several tranny's (POS).
 
  #54  
Old 10-30-2007
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Originally Posted by jtfoxman
Purolator? Never tried these.
Yes I do. Well.. thier premium version (pure-one) is $5 at advance auto.
That's what I've used for quite some time now. Last engine I tore down (575hp @ 31k miles) looked fine using mobil 1 and pure-one filters.

Rich
 
  #55  
Old 10-30-2007
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The PureOne, and the Mobil 1, filters are outstanding. The ONLY reason I won't use them is the location of the bypass valve. This may be splitting hairs, but Ford spec's the bypass to be in the base (threaded end) and these filters have it in the domed end. I'd also be careful with that Royal Purple, UOA's have shown it to quickly shear to a lower weight.
 
  #56  
Old 10-30-2007
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Motorcraft filters and motorcraft synthetic blend oil for me.

Edit: Yes, fram does suck.
 

Last edited by mj550; 10-30-2007 at 09:40 PM.
  #57  
Old 12-02-2007
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Royal purple

im new to rangers and i was wondering if puttin royal purple engine oil in is a good idea
 
  #58  
Old 12-02-2007
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Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
Yes I do. Well.. thier premium version (pure-one) is $5 at advance auto.
That's what I've used for quite some time now. Last engine I tore down (575hp @ 31k miles) looked fine using mobil 1 and pure-one filters.

Rich
I work part time at Advance and we sell the purolators like hot cakes. I use either the mobil 1 or k&n's and have had no problems with either.
 
  #59  
Old 12-02-2007
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Originally Posted by 01 ranger 4x4
im new to rangers and i was wondering if puttin royal purple engine oil in is a good idea

I think its a great idea to switch to a synthetic oil, if for no other reason to be able to go longer between changes. However, I'd suggest skipping the Royal Purple. UOA's (used oil analysis) have shown that Royal Purple has a tendency to quickly shear to a lower weight (ex. 5w-30 to a 5w-20), which is not a situation you would want to be in. I would suggest that you consider Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, or Amsoil and stick with the Motorcraft FL820s oil filter. The Motorcraft oil filter has the Ford preferred location of the bypass valve (threaded base of the filter), most others (Wix, Mobil 1, Pure One, etc.) do not.
 
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