The Black Beast is alive!
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From: Lowell, AR
The Black Beast is alive!
With Stevie Ray jammin in the background, I checked over every nut and bolt, harness and connector one more last time. After a meticulous search for anything that could be wrong, I came to the frightening conclusion that I was finally about to bring the 5.0 to life!
The first turn of the key was disappointing. The starter didn't click, the motor didn't turn, and even the dome lights and radio circuit shut off. I bit my tongue and ran inside to read over some EVTM's on the starter circuit.
After tracking down every component and connector that the starter circuit goes through, I was quickly able to find a loose connector at the top of the transmission, which prevented the circuit from being completed through the digital transmission range sensor. The electrical "dead-end" was preventing the starter from turning.
Now that I was once-again confident everything had been checked, it came time to expect some noise.
The second time of turning the key was the most exciting moment I've had during any of my projects. With the rumble of that 5.0 L, the nostalgia flooded my mind of the first time I flew an R/C airplane that I had built.
A few problems quickly became obvious, like the disconnected PCV valve hose that allowed a vacuum leak on the intake manifold. Also, a coolant line spring clamp wasn't completely seated, and needed to be "popped" in place.
How's it run???
The Power-To-Weight ratio is absolutely insane. A standard cab Ranger has absolutely no business carrying a 5.0L V8, C4 auto, and 8.8" rear unless you are clinically insane. The realization that I created a Hemi eater took a few days to overcome. Now I enjoy the looks I get from everybody when they hear me rumble to a stop at a red light. I dare anyone challenge me with so much as a crooked brow for they will be humiliated by the little Ford Ranger that could.
Project summary and Notes
Although it took me much longer than I hoped or planned, I am glad to have completed this project over a long period of time. Trying to rush through this job would have been like cramming for the SAT. All the lessons I learned and problems I encountered brought me invaluable knowledge that will stick with me through all of my future automotive projects.
If you decide to do this swap, you absolutely MUST have a limited slip differential. The capability to spin tires in this thing makes it dangerous in inclement weather.
Now enough with the jabbin, and let's see some pics.
BEFORE
2.5 during removal:
Before restoration and undercoating:
AFTER hours of grinding and painting:
Home:
Done:
REVVING VIDEO
The first turn of the key was disappointing. The starter didn't click, the motor didn't turn, and even the dome lights and radio circuit shut off. I bit my tongue and ran inside to read over some EVTM's on the starter circuit.
After tracking down every component and connector that the starter circuit goes through, I was quickly able to find a loose connector at the top of the transmission, which prevented the circuit from being completed through the digital transmission range sensor. The electrical "dead-end" was preventing the starter from turning.
Now that I was once-again confident everything had been checked, it came time to expect some noise.
The second time of turning the key was the most exciting moment I've had during any of my projects. With the rumble of that 5.0 L, the nostalgia flooded my mind of the first time I flew an R/C airplane that I had built.
A few problems quickly became obvious, like the disconnected PCV valve hose that allowed a vacuum leak on the intake manifold. Also, a coolant line spring clamp wasn't completely seated, and needed to be "popped" in place.
How's it run???
The Power-To-Weight ratio is absolutely insane. A standard cab Ranger has absolutely no business carrying a 5.0L V8, C4 auto, and 8.8" rear unless you are clinically insane. The realization that I created a Hemi eater took a few days to overcome. Now I enjoy the looks I get from everybody when they hear me rumble to a stop at a red light. I dare anyone challenge me with so much as a crooked brow for they will be humiliated by the little Ford Ranger that could.
Project summary and Notes
Although it took me much longer than I hoped or planned, I am glad to have completed this project over a long period of time. Trying to rush through this job would have been like cramming for the SAT. All the lessons I learned and problems I encountered brought me invaluable knowledge that will stick with me through all of my future automotive projects.
If you decide to do this swap, you absolutely MUST have a limited slip differential. The capability to spin tires in this thing makes it dangerous in inclement weather.
Now enough with the jabbin, and let's see some pics.
BEFORE
2.5 during removal:
Before restoration and undercoating:
AFTER hours of grinding and painting:
Home:
Done:
REVVING VIDEO
Sweeeeet!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Lowell, AR
Right now the motor is stock, with the exception of a decent valve re-grind and some minor head work. The stock exhaust manifolds got the bumps ground to increase flow. It's running a true-dual set up with no cats or O2 sensors flowing through 2 1/2" mandrel bent tubing to two Flowmaster 40 Series Original mufflers that dump before the rear axle. I have a 16" Flex-A-Lite mounted to a 3-core cross-flow aluminum radiator controlled by a thermostat-switch with a manual over-ride switch on the Over Head Console. I added a B&M Shift Kit to tighten the shift patterns, and bypassed the hot water flow to the intake manifold to decrease inlet air temperature.
Overall, it runs great. It idles great with the valve job, and really has endless torque. I have spun the tires from a 30mph roll by just stepping on it hard. If I start off from a dead stop and get on it, it will burn rubber all the way into second gear. If I get lucky enough to grab traction before 2nd, it will bark the tires shifting into second.
Overall, it runs great. It idles great with the valve job, and really has endless torque. I have spun the tires from a 30mph roll by just stepping on it hard. If I start off from a dead stop and get on it, it will burn rubber all the way into second gear. If I get lucky enough to grab traction before 2nd, it will bark the tires shifting into second.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Aug 2005
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Likes: 11
From: Lowell, AR
It's a 2000 Ford Ranger XL that originally had a 2.5L 4 cylinder, 4-speed auto OD tranny, and 7.5 open differential. I swapped in the "guts" from a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer XLT with full options. I swapped over the motor, transmission, driveshaft, rear axle, rear suspension including leaf springs, sway-bar, and lower shock mounts, and the PATS system.
It wasn't all that hard, as long as you have a very good understanding of how a Ford works. You WILL need a copy of the Ford Technical Service Manual, available online. I had to splice only ONE harness in from the Explorer...the rest bolted and connected right up. You will also have to fabricate motor mounts and use Ford Ranger 4.0L OHV or OHC frame isolators. I used Brian Blackburn's drawings, slightly modified for my set-up.
If you want to talk about money, I will have to bust out the graphing calculator and a stack of O'Reilly's receipts about 1/2" thick!
A few other pics:
OHC, painted:
TWO Flowmaster 40 series:
TRUE-DUAL Exhaust
It wasn't all that hard, as long as you have a very good understanding of how a Ford works. You WILL need a copy of the Ford Technical Service Manual, available online. I had to splice only ONE harness in from the Explorer...the rest bolted and connected right up. You will also have to fabricate motor mounts and use Ford Ranger 4.0L OHV or OHC frame isolators. I used Brian Blackburn's drawings, slightly modified for my set-up.
If you want to talk about money, I will have to bust out the graphing calculator and a stack of O'Reilly's receipts about 1/2" thick!
A few other pics:
OHC, painted:
TWO Flowmaster 40 series:
TRUE-DUAL Exhaust
Last edited by Needforspeed3685; Dec 2, 2007 at 02:09 PM.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,836
Likes: 11
From: Lowell, AR
Originally Posted by rangerkidSHSU
sooo when you gonna get a clip of u revving the engine WITH the exhaust lol
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
what part of the harness did you have to splice?
On the Ranger, it's connector C184, 6-pin round. On the Mounty, it's C125, 8-pin square. I simply snipped and soldered.
