Natedog's 2000 SAS
#1
Natedog's 2000 SAS
I guess I'll start a writeup as the project is almost done and others' writeups were very helpful for me in this process. It has been driveable now for about 2-3 weeks. I would like to preface this with the statement that this took a lot of research (over a year), lots of time and some on-the-spot solutions. The truch was down for about 10 days but I had pretty much everything at hand. Now on the the specs, here are the highlights, I have a complete detail list in Excel format should anyone want it.
1987 Grand Wagoneer Dana 44
4.56 gears w/ welded spiders
Warn Premium Hubs
Hi Steer Arms w/ Dodge knuckles
YJ brake lines
New U-bolts
Chevy TREs and Links from Parts Mike
Stock leaf pack with added middle Ranger rear leaf
1998 Explorer 8.8
4.56 gears w/ Lockrite
Disc brakes
1/2 ton Chevy leafs
Alloy shafts from DutchmanMS (6 lug)
Redrilled Rotors
Toyota steering box w/ weld in insert (welded together both Ranger and Toy shafts)
F-250 Shock towers
Rancho RS 99012 shocks
1354 Manual t-case
35x10.5 TSL Boggers on 15x10 Rims
Minor things I did which I didn't see in others' SAS threads:
I converted the front wheel studs from 7/16" to 1/2" and bought longer studs so the lugnuts would thread on more.
Buy a magnetic angle finder - makes setting the Castor VERY easy = no death wobble
Things yet to do:
The driveshaft is not in yet as I need to make a new tranny crosmember.
The t-case shifter is not in yet as I haven't yet drilled the holes through the floor.
Finish the Winch mount
Buy and install rear shocks
Pics:
1987 Grand Wagoneer Dana 44
4.56 gears w/ welded spiders
Warn Premium Hubs
Hi Steer Arms w/ Dodge knuckles
YJ brake lines
New U-bolts
Chevy TREs and Links from Parts Mike
Stock leaf pack with added middle Ranger rear leaf
1998 Explorer 8.8
4.56 gears w/ Lockrite
Disc brakes
1/2 ton Chevy leafs
Alloy shafts from DutchmanMS (6 lug)
Redrilled Rotors
Toyota steering box w/ weld in insert (welded together both Ranger and Toy shafts)
F-250 Shock towers
Rancho RS 99012 shocks
1354 Manual t-case
35x10.5 TSL Boggers on 15x10 Rims
Minor things I did which I didn't see in others' SAS threads:
I converted the front wheel studs from 7/16" to 1/2" and bought longer studs so the lugnuts would thread on more.
Buy a magnetic angle finder - makes setting the Castor VERY easy = no death wobble
Things yet to do:
The driveshaft is not in yet as I need to make a new tranny crosmember.
The t-case shifter is not in yet as I haven't yet drilled the holes through the floor.
Finish the Winch mount
Buy and install rear shocks
Pics:
#6
#7
#12
#13
I don't have any pics of the hangers at this time. The front is square tubing welded/braced to the frame and the rear is round tubing (for bushings) welded to square tubing welded to the axle. I believe 02FX4? did it this same way.
As fax as wide/narrow I don't know. I don't believe the Waggy had flares. The front is slightly wider that the rear.
The roof line is about 76" (sorry ST), the bottom, the front bumber (w/out valance) is 31" and the rear is 28"
I cut the old shock mounts off a long time ago thinking that they wouldn't work, I guess they might have, I dunno.
I need to change/modify the crossmember as the driveshaft wil now be lower than stock and hit the crossmember.
As fax as wide/narrow I don't know. I don't believe the Waggy had flares. The front is slightly wider that the rear.
The roof line is about 76" (sorry ST), the bottom, the front bumber (w/out valance) is 31" and the rear is 28"
I cut the old shock mounts off a long time ago thinking that they wouldn't work, I guess they might have, I dunno.
I need to change/modify the crossmember as the driveshaft wil now be lower than stock and hit the crossmember.
Last edited by natedog57; 01-15-2008 at 10:45 AM.
#14
#16
#17
Natedog.....hey can you get a bunch of pics featuring the front crossmembers, the spring hangers, steering, etc......i think we need a bunch-o-detail pics. What'd you do for steering shaft setup?? I've been compiling a bunch of info and pics of solid swaps on rangers.....to prepare for mine.
I know my buddy has the widetrac waggy(i think 64" wms to wms) i can pick up anytime to start the buildup....but hopefully i can find a narrow waggy to throw on.
I know my buddy has the widetrac waggy(i think 64" wms to wms) i can pick up anytime to start the buildup....but hopefully i can find a narrow waggy to throw on.
#19
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
Natedog.....hey can you get a bunch of pics featuring the front crossmembers, the spring hangers, steering, etc......i think we need a bunch-o-detail pics. What'd you do for steering shaft setup?? I've been compiling a bunch of info and pics of solid swaps on rangers.....to prepare for mine.
I know my buddy has the widetrac waggy(i think 64" wms to wms) i can pick up anytime to start the buildup....but hopefully i can find a narrow waggy to throw on.
I know my buddy has the widetrac waggy(i think 64" wms to wms) i can pick up anytime to start the buildup....but hopefully i can find a narrow waggy to throw on.
Why run a waggy axle? nasty low pinion...
No offense to the ones that have it already but if I was doing it I would not be running one. F150 axle is 65" WMS its only a 1/2" per side.
#21
Originally Posted by zabeard
Why run a waggy axle? nasty low pinion...
No offense to the ones that have it already but if I was doing it I would not be running one. F150 axle is 65" WMS its only a 1/2" per side.
No offense to the ones that have it already but if I was doing it I would not be running one. F150 axle is 65" WMS its only a 1/2" per side.
#24
Originally Posted by redranger4.0
Then you have to mess with cast wedges. And finding a 76-77 f150 or f100 axle is much harder to find then a waggy. And in my case my waggy axle is only 61" wide so it matches my EB rear. a 65" front axle would be way to wide.
#25
Originally Posted by zabeard
in your case understandable. but if you were to start from scratch, a F150 axle would be better. you are also running coil overs which brackets fitting in a tight spot wont be much of an issue.