Hmmmm... Now why would my truck be on a trailer? Besides it not being driveable?













































Oh yea, this is why. Can anyone tell me what's different? And I'm proud to say that I did everything myself, well...besides the help of a jack.



Brenton

 

sweet!

 

finally getting 4wd.

 

oooo weeee.

I've still gotta install my Warn Premium hubs. My t-case will be ready sometime this week along with my rear drive shaft.

While on the subject, which vehicle should I look for to ****** the front d-shaft out of? Zach told me, but I completely forgot.

Brenton

 

depends on what year your t-case came from.......i would say a '97 or older driveshaft

 

I wouldn't think it would matter by years. It's a manual 1354 & I think Zach told me it was out of a Jeep.

Brenton

 

you need to make sure what style front output you have......if you have a '98+ t-case then you will need an adaptor for it so the u-joint style driveshaft will work.......

I would get a driveshaft out of a '97 or older BW1354 (manual or auto).....it has the u-joint ends on both ends


I don't think there was ever a BW1354 installed in a Jeep

 

it doesnt matter if the 1354 was ever on a jeep all that matters is the joint. Im sure there was a jeep that used the same joint.

 

any '93-'97 Ranger front driveshaft will work and will be easier to find.....crap you can go on TRS website and find them for sale all over the place......

 

but its probably not the right length. Hes trying to find a driveshaft that will work in both joints and length.

 

I highly doubt a Jeeps driveshaft will have the proper length in a factory driveshaft......and with the Ranger haveing the Dana 35 upfront, I would bet it is the same front connection as his front axle

 

It will also matter what year the tcase is.....like I said before, the '98+ tcases do NOT use a u-joint to connect to the driveshaft

 

I don't really care about length, since it's prob going to be to short anyway. I'm just looking for a d-shaft that will work with both t-case and diff. The t-case will prob be coming out of a mid 90's model Exploder.

Brenton

 

I've found a front d-shaft that will work, thanks to Zach. But when I go to get the rear shortened this week, I'll see if they can come up with anything to possibly make one.

Updates will be soon!

Brenton

 

i am sure you know this, but i will tell you anyways....

the rear driveshaft is a flange mount at the t-case, it isn't like your 2wd driveshaft that has the slip joint at the transmission. you would be cheaper/easier/better-off to get a driveshaft out of a '98+ extended cab 4wd Ranger......and probably not have to get it shortened. The slip joint on the 4wd driveshafts is in the shaft itself, not the t-case...

 

once that 4wd is workin i wanna see that b!tch dirty

 

4wd Ranger driveshaft: (Thanks to TTPerformance for the picture)


2wd Ranger driveshaft:

 

Oh yea, just a few more misc pics.

Oh no, what's this? No more bling! (thanks chris)



After pulling the old and before the new was in.





Brenton

 

Thanks Maurice, I'll see what the d-shaft shop says and to see if it's any cheaper. Because the cheapest d-shaft I've found was $175 & to get it shortened is $60.

Brenton

 

pictures look good Brenton....

if you get an extended cab 4wd Ranger driveshaft, you wont have to have it shortened....it will bolt right in...

 

use this website and search for one:
www.car-part.com

i did a quick search for ya and i found them anywhere from $100 to $200 and anywhere from 50 miles to 500 miles from your zip code.......even if you have to pay $200 for a driveshaft, it will be cheaper than a custom one....

 

so ur goin from 41s n 20s to 37s n 17s?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-03...2em118Q2el1247

Ebay has a whole slew of shafts for under $100. I agree with Maurice, its gonna be a lot less trouble to just buy the one you need that already has the correct flanges.

 

depending on your lift as well, you might have to get the stock rear driveshaft lengthened

 

Maurice he has a 99 explorer case, so he would need the adapter which is hard to come by. I told him I would buy the Superlift shaft, then exchange the Ujoint on the end to fit the D44 Yoke. Simple and should be the correct length. Maybe Evan will let him test fit before he buys?

As for the rear shaft all the shop has to do is cut off that one end and weld on the flange style. Should be simple and cheap.