Since i sold my 99 F150 due to it leaving me stranded one too many times despite throwing everything and everyone at it in attempts to solve, I picked up this 97 Ranger XLT supercab for cheap with a blown transmission. Clean body, interior is sea green (reminds me of dads old 87 buick park avenue that i used to drive when i got my lic), 4x4, blah blah. Wont bore with the details. Truck has potential and ive decided to do a partial restoration on it. Documentation in the glove box shows that the truck was sold to its first owner inPunxsutawney, Pennsylvania. Therefore since this is where the famous groundhog that pops up every spring, my wife has named the truck Phil (watch Groundhog Day movie with Bill Murray). Luckily this truck didn't spend all of its life up north or else this would have been rusted out by now and junked. Rust is somewhat moderate in places but fixable. Excited to get this truck running and driving around as ive never had a compact truck before and the wife is excited to be able to drive a manageable truck around the suburbia of Atlanta. I started on this project about a few months ago so will post pics and progress in the next few days to catch you guys up. I appreciate reading yall's own projects and forum tech topics on here so thought id play my part and share also.

 

Pictures of the truck on the day of sale.



Dont see too many sea-green (willow) interiors.

Tranny and all other parts thrown in bed of truck. Was just sitting there for a year like this. In the background is a friend of mine named Cub who has sold me a number of project cars, mainly Mustangs.

 

Getting Phil all cleaned up and noticed a massive oil leak coming from top of engine. Suspected valve covers and intake for this 4.0 OHV. At this point i decided to replace these gaskets with the engine still in the car. The transmission has already been pulled out and ready to take over to a local shop where the owner specializes in rebuilding Ford transmissions. A week later i decided it would be best to pull the engine out completely so i could replace the oil pan gasket since the odometer had about 160k on it and its best to take care of this all at once.

 

I decided to pull the oil pan off and inspect the rod and main bearings. Thank God i did! I didn't like what i saw. Rod bearings had uneven wear and pretty worn. I saw significant wear on the rod bearings while the mains were in good shape still.

Upon pulling the engine i also noticed all the freeze plugs on the passenger side were very rusted. Plus one was replaced with the rubber plug as shown. The whole inside of the block was severely rusted also. This is what happens folks when you dont change coolant often. And of course the truck is from the rust belt.





Decided to pull the heads off after determining this engine will need a full rebuild. Found water damage (rust) in cyls 1, 2, and 3 which is indicative of coolant leak not to mention the rod bearings that were unevenly worn where from these cyls.



Look at the crusty buildup in the water jackets. I bet the water pump was shot to heck which led to overheating which lead to coolant loss from coolant leak such as head gasket or cracked heads. I was right, when i took the block and heads to machine shop, both heads had cracks in them. I was forced to purchase refurbed heads.

 

Got the block and heads back from machine shop. Block was bored .020 over, cleaned, checked, and was provided with master engine kit which included bearings, seals, gaskets, pistons, timing chain, and oil pump. I had to go out and buy seperately chain tensioner/guide kit, Ford 2 piece rear main seal (one included wouldnt fit due to poor quality), rear main seal installation tool from ebay, new pushrods, and 1 new lifter.

First thing i did was wash the block and heads and used brake cleaner spray on rods and anything else i couldnt get wet. Second i began setting crankshaft in place and measuring bearing clearance. Same for pistons/rods. Never trust the machine shop (i once had to pull an rebuilt engine out twice because machine shop did not bore out the block to correct spec for pistons on a Honda). Always double check yourself. You can use plastigauge for a rough measurement on bearings. I found my bearing clearances were on the loose side but within tolerance. Loose is better for these 4.0 engines.

 

Assembled the rest of the engine carefully paying close attention to how the heads and intake manifold get torqued together. Also pay attention to how gasket maker is used throughout assembly, most notably intake and oil pan area. Ive read these engines are notorious for leaks and not following proper procedure will result in oil leaks.

I wanted to make this engine compartment clean and purdy. So i decided to paint the engine Detroit Diesel Alpine Green to match the interior and all accessory brackets and such aluminum color.

 

Since i was waiting on engine machine work i focused on the body and frame of the truck. Rust had begun to take its toll on the frame and various pieces so i wanted to stop it and protect the metal. I used a wire wheel on the frame as much as i could with the body and bed still on. Sprayed rattle can Rustoleum semi gloss black on the frame and suspension. Also installed a tubular hitch.

I went ahead and swapped the 2 piece driveshaft with a 1 piece driveshaft from a newer Ranger. This involved removing the bearing carrier mounting bracket from the cross member. Replaced all U joints and re-greased the shaft and installed a new rubber cover off a motorcycle fork.

Replaced 2 hard brake lines with new ones (2 coming off brake master cyl). I bent them and conformed them to a better position also.

The transfer case was emptied of all oil and replaced both main seals since it showed evidence of puking oil everywhere.

Spot painted the engine compartment as much as i could. I really should have just pulled the cab and bed off and done this completely....

 

The interior wasnt bad, but was dirty and the driver seat and center console had major issues. I pulled everything out of the cab and pressure washed the seats and carpet. Cleaned each plastic trim piece also.

The driver seat had 2 issues which seems to be a common issue. First the seat back foam gets cut by the frame and when you sit, your back wants to go through the back of the seat. I fixed this by removing the seat cover for the back, purchased 1 inch poly foam, 3M spray adhesive, and 1 yard of fine cloth. I glued cloth to existing foam to repair it and get it back to original shape, than glued 1 inch foam to backside followed by another layer of cloth. Trimmed everything up and reinstalled seat cover and now the seat is back to its original form and not as mushy. Its much firmer and more comfortable. Ill probably do the seat bottom in the near future depending how it drives.

Second, the center console mounting bracket broke its welds and it was twisted. While i had the seat cover off fixing the foam backer, i rewelded the center console bracket back on to the seatback frame. I also fabricated extra steel plates to re-enforce the mounting area. Its very sturdy now.

Third, there's a guy that sells console lids on ebay made out of alumin and has vinyl coverings. He was able to wrap the vinyl in a color somewhat close to the seagreen. It wasn't perfect match, but i have a working lid now that will never break again.

The interior is pretty much pristine with the only fault being the driver seat bottom has some tears in the fabric. I doubt i will be able to get original matching fabric. I may start exploring finding a different design fabric with same color in the future. If only i could find a sea green interior Ranger with bucket seats and true center console!!!

 

There are a few things on this truck I went overboard with. Ill never recoup the investment in terms of costs but knowing its been ALL replaced with quality parts, so will have that for piece of mind and longevity. Plan on keeping this truck for a long time.

1. AC system. There was no freon in the system and could not find a leak. Plus found remnants of a mouse nest inside the air box so there was lots hair/debris in the evaporator, I wont have that. Purchased all new components of the AC system from Rock Auto.

2. Exhaust. The only thing left of the exhaust was the original manifolds which had stuck and deteriorated studs and the y pipe. Truck didn't come with a cat pipe nor the muffler. While i love the sound of a loud truck (V8 though) for short drives, long drives I would hate it. Decided to go with Dynomax Super Turbo catback, custom made 2.25" intermediate pipe, Ontario exhaust cat pipe (only one cat is functional and other is empty which is just fine by me), and just ordered a set of JBA headers with y pipe. I could have gone with stock manifolds, but honestly wanted the look and sound of headers to compliment the whole system since it will no longer be 2" but rather a full 2.25. Will i see drastic power gains? Nope...But she should sound good and not annoying loud. Yes i know that's a $400 investment that isnt going to pay for itself logically.

3. Frame prep and painting. Here in the south, the rust isn't going to rapidly increase, but the idea that its accelerated bothers me. Maybe in 5 years ill get one of those new fancy Rangers. Or perhaps turn this thing into a rock crawler or a hot rod sleeper....I need to convince the wife i need another Ranger...

4. Battery. Went with an AGM battery. Lets see how long this last in the southern heat.

 

Performed some repairs on the wiring harness. One of the legs of the harness that leads to the EGR system was hacked off completely and than twisted back on and taped. Yep, wires were twisted back together and just taped, no soldering and no crimping. Had to solder them back together and use shrink wrap.

Pulled the ECU out since it was being subjected to rain and i was pleasantly surprised to find a JET performance chip. Then, read on-line about the use of these chips isn't as cracked up as is thought. We will see. I opened up the ECU and cleaned the circuit board and inspected for signs of corrosion or broken solder joints.

Its been over 10 years since i drove a 4.0 OHV Ranger, no clue how much of a performance gain will be added from headers and ECU chip. Actually have no clue how its gonna drive in the first place! Never drove this thing yet.

 

So next step is to install the drivetrain. Only problem is I don't have anyone to assist me and not gonna attempt the install myself as the driveway is on a decline. Foxbody Mustangs are no problem doing it yourself, but this one is gonna be tricky plus don't want to scratch up the newly painted firewall.

Anyone in the Atlanta area wanna make some quick cash?

 

The drivetrain is in! I've got everything but the front accessories installed. Don't want to proceed any further until i get these JBA headers. I ordered a set from CSP racing and been waiting for over 3 weeks now. Maybe JBA is making them as they receive orders with a lead time? I got a great deal on a set of new ones, I hate to cancel the order but may need to. Luckily ive been busy working on everyone else's vehicles the past 2 weeks. My driveway is full and everyone thinks im a used car lot...

 

Engine is in but waiting on headers before anything else gets bolted.

Installed transmission cooler hard lines. Bending stainless steel tubing this size is much harder when confined to the engine compartment.

AC Blower motor would only work on highest setting which ins indicative of a failed resistor. Replaced and now working. Plus did a little cleaning inside the ductwork.

Ditched the factory tail lights that were cracked and installed 98-99 tail lights. This required separating the wire harness slightly and re-taping.

 

looking good

 

Latest update:

She is up and running now. Runs great for the most part. Needs new tires, freon added to AC system, new windshield, and a new steering gear. There is so much play in the steering, its like herding cats. Ive ordered a rebuilt steering gear from Red Head. Also ordered a set of Michelin LTX M/A tires. I did find my rear leaf shackles brackets broken so that will get replaced before an alignment is completed.

Overall, very happy with this truck.



Just finished applying foil insulation to the airbox and sealing any openings.

She did good pulling a scoop of dirt.

 

Notice the 2006 Ranger side mirrors that i just added. Also added 4x4 emblems to bed.


Next up:

New tires, steering box, alignment, shackle bracket replacement, and windshield. Tomorrow im pulling brake pads off front and sanding them down along with rotors (they are needing replacement anyway) since im getting a slight chirping.

Near future:

Tint side windows, replace mud flaps with new set of Ford OEM flaps, new headlight assembly, paint grill, replace antenna, pull bed off and replace fuel inlet hose and fuel pump. Replace rear end fluid. Create a proper bracket for aftermarket stereo unit. Replace rear bumper.

 

Got new Michelin tires installed. RedHead steering gear installed, shackle replacement, windshield, AC refrigerant fill, new brake pads and rotors along with new wheel bearings. New fuel pump and filler neck to seal off the leak so i can pass emissions. Just put on new OEM mudflaps.

Having some abnormal tire wear on driver front tire and it looks like the camber is off being on the negative side. Getting inner tire wear. Going to first raise the front end up about 1.5 inches and then install adjustable camber/caster bushings along with replacing both ball joints for that side which appear to be making noises. Also might as well replace the control arm rubber bushing on both sides since they are so cheap. I can hear noises in front end when i go in reverse. I currently have no "return to center" in my steering which seems to be indicative of 0 caster. So after replacing bushings and ball joints, will measure and see if i can include more caster with the adjustable bushings.

 

Ordered all new ball joints top and bottom for the front along with all poly urathane bushings. New KYB shocks on its way.

Decided to add cruise to the truck since last trip to FL was a little exhausting without it. Purchased a leather wrapped steering wheel with cruise buttons, ordered new cruise switches and servo with cable.

Prepping for next haul down to FL next month...

 

any updates in the last 10 months??

 

Yea....

Had to pull the engine back out as it was consuming lots of oil and both front and rear seals blew. Tore the engine down and sent the refurbed heads back to machine shop and sure enough they werent rebuilt properly. Valve guides were never replaced. Engine is back in and is running flawless now.

Installed set of JBA headers which seemed to have helped it breath a little better.

Currently dealing with 304 code due to new cat pipe from Ontario Exhuast not working well. They offered to replace the whole cat pipe but i know that they are so poor quality. Ill most likely put rear O2 sensor behind 2 spark plug defoulers and eventually weld in a name brand catalytic converter.

Right now my time is preoccupied with a 96 Ranger Splash