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Old 02-01-2014
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Discussion: What Rust-Preventer is the best?

So, I'm on a quest to make my Ranger last forever (or something like that). I'm going to Indiana, where there is tons of snow and salt and sub-zero temperatures.

So, what do you think? What would be best idea to make sure that rust never accumulates anywhere on the Ranger?
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Old 02-01-2014
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I've tried washing and waxing, sanding down the frame and painting with por15 all the tricks... This week I kicked a chunk of salt/snow debris off my fender flare and a big hunk of paint came off the bed and now there's a nice rust spot. Unfortunately it's inevitable up here that they do rot out. The only true way to keep them safe is a winter beater and park it
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Old 02-01-2014
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I do not believe there is anything that really stops RUST !

POR 15 is good but needs to be top coated but never last as long as you want.

I the parts are sand blasted, then epoxy primed, it might last.
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Old 02-02-2014
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Navel jelly, which uses Phosphoric acid, will remove surface rust, then rinse, clean and dry area.
Paint area.

Do NOT get this on any polished or painted surface, it is a medium strong acid, so gloves are recommended as well.
Brush it on then wait 20 minutes and brush it again to move it around, the Phosphoric acid reacts with the rust and changes it, it also reacts with the metal which will help prevent more rust.

Any under coating or paint will disappear over time, so there is nothing that will hold up against the salt on the roads, maintenance every few years is about the best you can do.
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Old 02-16-2014
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krown anti-rust control spray hands down

http://www.krown.com/

type in your zip code and loacte the nearest dealer

it works , i have my mazda sprayed every 6 months -- once in the spring -- once in the fall before the snow flies

Last edited by cheese_man; 02-16-2014 at 05:22 PM. Reason: wrong linkie provided
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Old 07-10-2014
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Sandblast the effected area with a spot blaster, apply a rust neutralizer (which as a prior post noted, is based on phosphoric acid - I skip the neutralizer products and purchase pool cleaner phosphoric acid), then paint over with POR15 or Eastwood's Rust Encampsulator, then go over it with PPG's DP90LF or equivalent epoxy primer. Ready for primer surfacer and top coat. Did this with multiple classic mustang restoration jobs and it has stood the test of time.
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Old 05-07-2015
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Old 11-30-2016
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That is cool. What about fiberglass over everything that doesn't get hot. Of course after you sand rust to bare metal. Or would that be the same as the product above but cost more?
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Old 11-30-2016
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Many British cars leak oil like a sieve, and where the oil is allover the frame, there's no rust of course.
I intend to take an old electric paint spray gun with the biggest nozzle I can find.
Put wheel bearing grease in it diluted with paint thinner _ enough so the sprayer will function.
After it's applied, the paint thinner evaporates leaving the grease behind.

This will have to be applied as needed of course, but not a big deal.

Messy but effective.
But who cares about the mess on the frame.

I knew this old timer who did a variation of this.
He would pore heavy weight oil in the rocker panels.
He had this old 50's International truck that he drove around _ no rust at all.

I used to use rust check _ waste of money _ does absolutely nothing.
It just washes off after a while.

Last edited by Jeff R 1; 11-30-2016 at 09:07 PM.
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  #10  
Old 11-30-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by New2Ford View Post
That is cool. What about fiberglass over everything that doesn't get hot. Of course after you sand rust to bare metal. Or would that be the same as the product above but cost more?
Like any coating over metal, the coatings crack and break down and lets water/salt in.
By the time this is noticed, the meatal underneath is gone leaving the coating totally in tact.
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Old 12-01-2016
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Thank you Jeff
In the spring I will try the magnet paint. Right now I am pretty good. Just got a muffler on it. It really is needed.
Keep the rubber side down.
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