So yea, my rear U-Joint is toast. So I am wondering how do I replace it? I know how to remove the drive shaft, index everything and what not, but I have never actually done the joint. Any help is apreciated. Oh and how about we do the front while we are at it.. lol.. oh oh and Torque specs, if anybody has those I'd apreciate it!

 

you gotta take the snap ring out, then take a socket thats bigger than the joint and one thats smaller... put the one thats bigger underneath and the smaller above. just use a hammer to pound it out. to put the new one in i've used a C clamp to press it in

 

I hope this helps you.. .It's right from the HAYNES manual for 93-05 Rangers.. If your changin the U-Joints on the 99 then this should apply..

The Procedure for front is the same as rear according to the manual. It states that you should rear the section I copied for you here to do the front as well.. Also,, what torque specs do you need.. PM me and I will get you what ever I can..






You should be able to right-click on the photos and save them to your hard drive..

 

something i know how to do, and jason doesnt!!!!

whoa!

thanks tommy reff, for teaching me.. lol

i have gone through more u-joints than i can count...(my old truck) i think i have broken 7? i dunno... lol

 

Yeah you just have to pull the driveshaft out, remove the c-clips/snap rings, and use the sockets like Alon said. When you put the new ones in, you have to remove the ends so you can slide them into the openings in the driveshaft yoke and then press the endcaps onto the u-joint with a c-clamp or a u-joint press. It's kinda hard to explain but it should be easier when you're actually doing it.

 

All that long travelin' crap is gonna destroy u-joints like there going out of style...

 

I'm sure thats not the only thing you know that I dont... lol..

Thanks all, I think I'v got an idea.. if anybody else has any tips/tricks that would be great!

 

wish i was in cali I would come over we could have it done in about 50 min tomarrow. but its a little bit of a drive

 

all you really need are a few tools...

pliers, hammer(s), wrench...

you dont have to have a press if you use a ball peen hammer... one small enough to fit inside the holes the ujoint tips go into.. place it on the dealie(i have no idea of these terms), and beat it in, with another hammer on top of that one, til you can get the clip in...

 

and some times a torch every once a while but cali doesnt have the nasty rust problems we have

 

Yea but have you driven in the ocean? I'll be sure to take pictures.. my driveshaft is orange (where I haven't painted)

 

ya you might need a torch only heat the u-joint right where the snap ring is. load that up with penitrating oil let it sit for a min then head away just remeber to keep the heat off the driveshaft

 

dont hit it with the hammer to get it back in... just use a c clamp and press it in

 

i wouldn't ever heat it with a torch!

 

christian I have done about oh dear 40 u-joints now you live in mich we dont have the lovelyness of un-rusted parts. hell on my truck you counldnt tell the difference between the drive shaft and the ujoint it was so badly rusted. if you heat the center of the spot right where the c-clip used to be you will be fine...

 

ohhhh...

well, i haven't ever had the need for that...

what is rust?

 

I'm looking for these high clearance u-joints i saw in a mag, would probably really help you out with your long travel, i'm still lookin, i've read the article about 20 damn times lol.

 

what makes them more high clearance than other u-joints?

 

Instead of being a cross, the two joints are stacked. The centerline of 2 of the bearing caps, is about 1/2" above the other 2 caps. I'm still searching for them, but essentially it spaces the driveshaft yoke away from the pinion yoke. And vise-a-versa for the tranny output. You have to install them in the front and rear of the shaft to cancel out vibrations that they could cause.

 

very smart D the drive shaft is balanced to everything else!

 

put some anti-sieze around the cap and inside the ear so it goes in easier.

also make sure to seat the needle bearings. i wouldnt use heat unless nesseccary. the ears can distort and u wont like the outcome. also be carful banging on the ears.

 

well your not supposed to make it cherry red people...

 

i usually cut the joint off before the cup and pound it out that way...

 

you guys with the torches and hammers, what happends if your torching it a bit, and then beat it out with a hammer, and the end caps bust open?
Warm to hot grease everywhere, right? just be safe and use C-clamps, or a vise as mentioned in the pictures provided.
you guys with the Long travel, couldn't you just change your pinion angle to make your U-joints last longer? i think you'd only need some of those pinion angle wedge shaped blocks, right?
[yeah i'm think i've begun learning stuff in school, yay me]