Just picked up my Ranger, and whilst it shifts fine (1st can be a little picky) the self centering action in neutral is very weak, is this normal?

Thanks.

 

You have an M5OD-R1 in a 2002 3.0l Ranger, also called M5R1
R2 is larger and used in F-Series
M5OD-R1HD was used with 4.0l SOHC Rangers

None have detachable bell housings so replacement requires an exact engine match

There are no springs inside
Maybe shifter bushing is wearing out, simple to change and not an expensive part, under $20 for the kit
Seen here: M5R1 / M5R2

How-To here: TRS Magazine - Shifter Bushing Replacement

All the M5R1/R2 transmissions used ATF, yes automatic transmission fluid, Mercon V
Some replace with synthetic ATF and report easier shifting, I never tried it but also never had shifter issue

 

Woah, ok thanks :)

I'm assuming i should probably make sure this is sloppy when in gear then? Right now i'm only referring to neutral, i've not driven it too much, but then i also don't tend to try and move laterally when i'm in gear anyway.

Are the rebuild kits good enough? they seem to be cheaper, one on that link you gave was only ~$17

Here's a complete one from Dorman:

 

Yes, there should be some kind springs to center in neutral. Mine has more resistance when moving to the 5th/reverse slot than it does moving to the 1st/2nd slot but it for sure has a noticeable resistance either way.

 

No, no springs in there.
Could be 5/R shift rod is wearing out or shift fork/dog gear

All gears in the M5OD-R1 have synchro including Reverse, so when stopped with engine running there should be some resistance when shifting from neutral to any gear, i.e. slowing down the input shaft "gears" with the synchro to match output shaft at 0 RPMs
If there is any "rubbing" in the clutch setup then the 4" synchros have a hard time overcoming the 9"-10" clutch disc movement

 

That reminds me, is there, or should there be any reverse lock on on this box? I'm fairly certain mine doesn't have it.

 

No, no reverse push or pull, you are free to "try" and shift into Reverse any time you like

 

Hah, you first

Is that Dorman kit ok then?

 

A few months ago I looked at a 20k mile 2011 Ranger to replace my 2003. I walked away from it because the shift lever had barely any resistance. Dealer swore it was normal, but after driving numerous Rangers with manual transmissions, even with high mileage, they all still had resistance in neutral.

 

Interesting.

Just went and 'played' with mine before locking it up, it's not too bad, but it's certainly way less resistance that i have ever experienced in a manual shifter before, so long as that Dorman kit is ok, i'll probably grab that to 'fix it up'.

 

I haven't used the Dorman kit, but the picture certainly looks like the genuine Ford parts I've used in the past.

 

My 1994 has no resistance, very smooth shifting

had a 1990 that someone had put gear oil in, it was harder to shift until I change it to ATF

 

Looks like people reviewing it are saying they're nylon fittings instead of Fords rubber, so not genuine, but certainly cheaper.

 

I would have sworn the Ford parts I used were nylon, but it's been a few years.

 

Either way, it looks like it should be fine for this kind of application.

I'm curious though, when i drove it, it was possible to move the stick too far to the left when engaging first, i had to let it move right a little in order for 1st to engage smoothly. I'm not sure if that's related to this or not.

 

Ron, you made me pull out my Ford repair manual. There are no diagrams specifically showing the springs but there are instructions specifically instructing to position the shift forks and springs. I have circled those instructions in red. There are arrows pointing to the location of the detent ***** and springs, the shift gate and the shift forks and springs but doesn't actually show the springs.
They do exist. I can feel them working when I move the shifter side to side.

 

lol, OK there is technically a spring but not for easier shifting

The spring is for the ball to hold shift rod in that location/gear

Picture here, scroll down: My Transmission Teardown - The Ranger Station Forums

And drawing here, figure 11: http://bbscomp.com/george/manual.pdf

 

I am not referring to the detent springs. Yes, the detent springs are called out in the instructions but I outlined in red the 'shift fork and spring'. I am pretty sure these springs are what helps center the shift lever when it is in neutral. They do not make it shift easier but does help prevent shifting into 5th when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. They also help prevent shifting into 2nd when shifting from 5th into 4th.

In my Ranger the 5th/reverse slot spring is stiffer than the 1st/2nd slot spring but I can definitely feel the resistance moving the shifter left and right while in neutral.

 

Yeah, that resistance is low in mine - it's used for 'feeling' where the 'gate' is, without having to look or search for it.

 

Mine is a 2003, 3.0, 5 sp, it springs back to center easily !

Only 90K on it, with a Hurst Shifter... might be why it works well !

 

I doubt it's the Hurst part

But yeah, i'm hoping that what effects this, is the kit that the shifter mounts to, one is coming this week for mine.

 

Have you had a chance to install the shift kit? Any improvement?

I have a salvaged trans in my Ranger, put it in a few weeks ago. While it's quiet as a mouse and shift great into all gears, the lever is REALLY sluggish returning to center from the 1-2 side. 4-5 seems to be okay. I'm wondering if removing the shift lever and greasing/replacing the bushings would do anything for that, or if the problem is actually somewhere deep in the transmission that I will never be able to get to..

 

I haven't yet, might try and do it this weekend, planning on trans oil drop too.

I am wondering the thing, i'll see what, if any, investigation i can do when i take it apart.