Hello, I have a 93 Ford Ranger XLT Vin X. 4.0L V6 Motor went so I pulled it. And then purchased a used engine from AM an online retailer out of Florida and was sent an engine that looks identical. Only difference was this one appears to have EGR (California Emissions) and my original did not. Also on top of that the new engine seems to have a camshaft sensor/synchronize deal just above the flywheel/flexplate and behind the intake. My original motor in that location just simply has a blank cover plate in that location. So on the emissions question.. to me it seems so long as i put the upper intake plenum from my old engine onto the new one and plug the hole in the exhaust manifold I should be good? as my computer system would not be searching for any EGR anyhow? And onto the sensor/synchronize deal am I ok to just cap that off with my original engines blank plate since my truck was not originally equipped with it? the engines are identical by any other comparisons.These are the only two situations that have me scratching my head. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And no this company does not seem to be one that likes to work with customers when they send the wrong products.

 

Yes, you can swap upper manifolds and block the hole in exhaust manifold

Its not a blank plate, its the oil pump drive, but yes you can pull out the Cam Synchro tower and replace it with your oil pump drive

Also install a new rear main seal, always, while engine is out

Also check sensor and control connections on the engine, they changed over the years so connectors might not match up, just swap over your sensor or control

 

Thank you for your reply RonD that is helpful info. I took the retainer off of the oil pump drive and have tried to pry it out. I dont want to pry too hard and damage something. Am I missing a step on removal? Another question the newly purchased engine when cylinder #1 is tdc on compression is at roughly 10 degrees. The old engine however may tdc on compression is nowhere near the 10 degree detent. is this a problem or should the new engine still work just fine. Thanks for any input.

 

Picture of oil pump drive here: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/fDsAA...P~V/s-l300.jpg

The rubber o-ring can hold it pretty tight, but it will come out if you keep at it
When reinstalling in other engine you will have to turn the crank/cam to line up the hex drive with oil pump shaft, then it shoud drop into place, don't force it

Whats important on the crank timing is the Crank Position sensor, thats whats reading #1 TDC
Never looked at 2 different years side by side so can't say if what you are seeing is normal or if the woodruff key on one of them has sheared off so crank pulley is not in the correct position