4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

New Engine time

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Old May 15, 2020
  #1  
Diesel_Brad's Avatar
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New Engine time

Well, it appears my engine is on its way out. Smoke at start up(valve guid seals), smoke when driving(rings) and now using oil.
Oh and sometimes it also has that nice timing chain rattle.

I found a really good deal on a Ford reman for $2850 plus $450 core.

What would you guys recommend doing while the engine is out?

Truck is 04, 4.0 5 speed 168k

I bought the truck at 146k
Supposedly just had a radiator, hoses and clutch

I did plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter when I bought it,
Along with a ton of chassis work.

So, when the new engine is going it I plan on a new water pump and coolant flush.
But what else should I be considering?
 
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Old May 15, 2020
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You will be doing a long block swap so new intake, exhaust, valve cover and oil pan gaskets, check if it comes with new oil pump, it should

I would get new knock sensor, a pain to get to after intake is in, and the wires break
Thermostat housing can crack on these engines, so check it
New thermostat of course
Inspect coil pack for any cracks, not an issue but while its out.................have a look

You can do a flip test on radiator while its out
Put rad cap on
Put rad on its side so cooling tubes run up and down
Put your hand over the lower rad hose port and fill rad with garden hose using upper port
When its full remove hose
Remove hand and let rad drain, should drain very very fast
You can tilt it a bit to make sure all the water is out
Now the test
Flip rad upside down and see if any water comes out, it could ONLY come from blocked cooling tubes, that couldn't drain

Repeat with rad in reverse direction

Also good to back flush heater core, but best to do this outside
With both heater hoses off use garden hose to flush out core in BOTH directions
And anytime you change coolant you should reverse heater hoses at the firewall, this back flushes while driving, lol, can increase life of heater cores
What kills heater cores is blockages in the smaller cooling tubes

Coolant has anti-corrosive chemicals for the metal parts of an engine, but it ONLY WORKS when its in contact with the metal parts, I know DUH
Well when heater core has a blockage then NO COOLANT circulates thru that tube and it starts to corrode, and then leaks into the cab



 

Last edited by RonD; May 15, 2020 at 01:06 PM.
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Old May 15, 2020
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Diesel_Brad's Avatar
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Originally Posted by RonD
You will be doing a long block swap so new intake, exhaust, valve cover and oil pan gaskets, check if it comes with new oil pump, it should

I would get new knock sensor, a pain to get to after intake is in, and the wires break
Thermostat housing can crack on these engines, so check it
New thermostat of course
Inspect coil pack for any cracks, not an issue but while its out.................have a look

You can do a flip test on radiator while its out
Put rad cap on
Put rad on its side so cooling tubes run up and down
Put your hand over the lower rad hose port and fill rad with garden hose using upper port
When its full remove hose
Remove hand and let rad drain, should drain very very fast
You can tilt it a bit to make sure all the water is out
Now the test
Flip rad upside down and see if any water comes out, it could ONLY come from blocked cooling tubes, that couldn't drain

Repeat with rad in reverse direction

Also good to back flush heater core, but best to do this outside
With both heater hoses off use garden hose to flush out core in BOTH directions
And anytime you change coolant you should reverse heater hoses at the firewall, this back flushes while driving, lol, can increase life of heater cores
What kills heater cores is blockages in the smaller cooling tubes

Coolant has anti-corrosive chemicals for the metal parts of an engine, but it ONLY WORKS when its in contact with the metal parts, I know DUH
Well when heater core has a blockage then NO COOLANT circulates thru that tube and it starts to corrode, and then leaks into the cab

The engine comes with all those gaskets.
Also comes with new oil pump
Good idea on the knock sensor

I'm a little confused on the radiator flush?

heater core flush, Check

 
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Old May 15, 2020
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You are not flushing the radiator just checking it for blocked tubes
 
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Old May 16, 2020
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OP: Did you find an engine locally inPA? I was thinking about the $450 core charge. Shipping an engine back to somewhere far away will cost almost that, no?
 
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Old May 16, 2020
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Georgeandkira
OP: Did you find an engine locally inPA? I was thinking about the $450 core charge. Shipping an engine back to somewhere far away will cost almost that, no?
For most engine suppliers the core return is included in the price of the engine
 
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Old May 16, 2020
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OK....and the pallet, tray or box they used is reused by you AND you use the same carrier (truck company). Smooth
 
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Old May 16, 2020
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Originally Posted by Georgeandkira
OP: Did you find an engine locally inPA? I was thinking about the $450 core charge. Shipping an engine back to somewhere far away will cost almost that, no?

Yes but delivery and pickup are included
 
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Old May 16, 2020
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Ok, what reman brand would you guys go with?
My dealer is now saying that the engine id not available thru ford any more

And almost all then descriptions I says withOUT balance shaft. What is a balance shaft
 
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Old May 16, 2020
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Balance shaft was added to the 4.0l SOHC engines when 4x4s went to Live Axles, or Explorers with AWD, front drive shaft always spins with front wheels.
Engineers thought that may cause a vibration in the vehicle, so they added a balancer shaft inside the engine.
After about 2005 or 6 4x4s were getting 4.0l SOHC engines with and without balancer shafts so seems it didn't matter
2WD's never had balancer shafts added, and I don't think it matters for 4x4s that much either

No, I don't have a recommendation for a rebuilt, have you called local machine shops to see what they would charge to rebuild yours?
That's what you get when you buy a rebuilt engine, its just not done by a local machine shop, with local warranty
 
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Old May 16, 2020
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Local machine shops only give 1 year warranty
 
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Old May 16, 2020
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???, if it works for a year without fault I would be hard pressed to think it wasn't done right

You can buy extended warranty for anything, check with insurance broker

 
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Old May 17, 2020
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Originally Posted by RonD
???, if it works for a year without fault I would be hard pressed to think it wasn't done right

You can buy extended warranty for anything, check with insurance broker

Not really worth all the effort when all the chain rebuilders offer a 3 year/100kmile warranty. And the machine shop is no cheaper
 
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Old May 17, 2020
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
Not really worth all the effort when all the chain rebuilders offer a 3 year/100kmile warranty. And the machine shop is no cheaper

🤣 Go ahead, try one of them chain rebuilders...........At this point if u can’t get a Ford reman I’d either use a reputable machine shop or salvage yard for a good low mileage motor! Do yourself a favor, try doing research on these So Called rebuilders....🙄🙄 I had a Marshal once, won’t ever happen again complete Piece of ****...
 
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Old May 17, 2020
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Originally Posted by 07nhbpsi
🤣 Go ahead, try one of them chain rebuilders...........At this point if u can’t get a Ford reman I’d either use a reputable machine shop or salvage yard for a good low mileage motor! Do yourself a favor, try doing research on these So Called rebuilders....🙄🙄 I had a Marshal once, won’t ever happen again complete Piece of ****...
I know several people that have had very good luck with ATK/Spartan as well as other good reviews. Jasper aslo has had good reviews as well.

Cant say I have ever heard of marshal. But I found a company named Fraser that has nothing but BAD reviews
 
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