Hey guys I was installing a rebuilt starter and it had a solenoid lead preinstalled with a tag that said, "do not remove, crimp and shrink-wrap to existing lead." So of course I removed it and just connected my starter to the existing lead because I could see no logical reason to cut my existing harness just to attach a near identical lead. All that path seemed to do was introduce another point of failure. Now as logic would dictate the starter works fine using the existing lead from the truck but I was curious as to why they would include this lead with the instruction to cut your existing wire harness? I mean maybe the stock starter had an actual connector that would have to be cut off as it wouldn't mate with the post on the aftermarket starter? I don't know but again just curious if anyone does.

 

Its done to "fool proof" the installation, most newer starters have built in combo starter relay/solenoid, the smaller round cylinder on top of starter motor
It has an "S" post, a smaller post, and thats where the activation wire needs to be connected, where the lead was attached on your new one
But there may also be another smaller post near it, it activates the solenoid part, so to avoid confusion makers install the lead on correct post so end user connects to the correct post
It also takes corroded eye connector out of the picture since cutting it off the original wire and stripping wire back would give end user a clean copper wire connection

You can do what you did, and its what many people do that have been around awhile, lol, not your first Rodeo, starter motor swap

 

On mine, the solenoid was mounted reverse of the factory starter, so the factory wiring harness would not reach the post. I had no choice but to cut the factory harness and splice, and that's what I assumed the lead was there for.

Kinda like when I bought a "New" steering rack for my truck. A few years later and the inner tie rods are bad, but I have to replace the entire steering rack again because Cardone used their own size threads on the steering rack so none of the replacement inner tie-rods will fit the rack. And their tech support is absolutely no help in finding the correct inner-tie rods to fit the rack.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I was starting to think I was a little loopy lol.