Door striker screws
Door striker screws
Wont come loose. It's a 2000 Ranger XLT extended cab flareside. I've used the impact torque tool. T40 TORX socket on one end and the other end you hit with a hammer. Had a snap on T40 socket on it. Hit it a few times and they wouldn't budge. Actually bent the teeth on the socket. I'm trying to adjust both doors. They close fine , but rattle . I want to move the strikers in a little bit. Someone said the next step would be to heat the screws up with a pencil torch. If I strip them I'm definitely screwed. Any help would be A GREAT HELP. TYIA !!!
Yes, you can heat up the screw with a torch and then pour cold water on it, this can cause rusted threads to break lose, screw metal expands with heat, then shrinks rapidly with cold water applied
You can repeat that a few times, its a judgement call on how "hot" to get the screws
I doubt the torx head would strip, unless you use the wrong size socket, more likely for screw/bolt to break off, lol, but still in the same boat, have to break out the drill
Just as test, have you tried putting something in the door frame, like a folded rag, and then close the door and see if rattle is gone, indicating the striker may need to be moved in to put more pressure on the door gaskets to stop the rattle
You can repeat that a few times, its a judgement call on how "hot" to get the screws
I doubt the torx head would strip, unless you use the wrong size socket, more likely for screw/bolt to break off, lol, but still in the same boat, have to break out the drill
Just as test, have you tried putting something in the door frame, like a folded rag, and then close the door and see if rattle is gone, indicating the striker may need to be moved in to put more pressure on the door gaskets to stop the rattle
Striker screws tight
Ty for all of your advice. I will try the torch technique. As far as a towel or rag to see if that stops the rattling. That's what brought this whole thing about . Was to move striker inward to stop the rattling. Because they're not worn out.
I had the same problem and bought some 1/2" diameter black rubber pads and placed them on the tips of the original rubber pads ,problem solved. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Dia-Rub...72.m2749.l2649
Correct me if I'm wrong
That will push the door farther away from the body thus creating a bigger gap. I already have rattling doors and a wind noise from the gap. I get that it would put pressure on the door to stop the rattling. But.......
Latch or striker
You shouldn't have to use an impact driver for the latch. I borrowed a technician from works pencil torch and T40 torx socket. Along with his impact driver. Going to heat up the striker screws and then put the impact driver to it and hit it with a hammer. But I've been thinking, doesn't look like theres much adjustment in the striker. I may see if the door latch itself is adjustable.
Drivers side done
Heated up the screws on the driver's side. Then hit the impact torque driver hard with the hammer.They came loose. So the D.S. striker has been successfully adjusted!!!!Now to do the passenger side this coming up weekend. Thank you everyone!!!!!
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