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Door striker screws

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Old Dec 1, 2020
  #1  
CWV'S2000RANGERXLT's Avatar
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From: Diana,Texas
Door striker screws

Wont come loose. It's a 2000 Ranger XLT extended cab flareside. I've used the impact torque tool. T40 TORX socket on one end and the other end you hit with a hammer. Had a snap on T40 socket on it. Hit it a few times and they wouldn't budge. Actually bent the teeth on the socket. I'm trying to adjust both doors. They close fine , but rattle . I want to move the strikers in a little bit. Someone said the next step would be to heat the screws up with a pencil torch. If I strip them I'm definitely screwed. Any help would be A GREAT HELP. TYIA !!!
 
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Old Dec 2, 2020
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Yes, you can heat up the screw with a torch and then pour cold water on it, this can cause rusted threads to break lose, screw metal expands with heat, then shrinks rapidly with cold water applied

You can repeat that a few times, its a judgement call on how "hot" to get the screws

I doubt the torx head would strip, unless you use the wrong size socket, more likely for screw/bolt to break off, lol, but still in the same boat, have to break out the drill

Just as test, have you tried putting something in the door frame, like a folded rag, and then close the door and see if rattle is gone, indicating the striker may need to be moved in to put more pressure on the door gaskets to stop the rattle
 
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Old Dec 2, 2020
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From: Diana,Texas
Striker screws tight

Ty for all of your advice. I will try the torch technique. As far as a towel or rag to see if that stops the rattling. That's what brought this whole thing about . Was to move striker inward to stop the rattling. Because they're not worn out.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2020
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Bob C. of Indiana's Avatar
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From: Central ,Indiana
I had the same problem and bought some 1/2" diameter black rubber pads and placed them on the tips of the original rubber pads ,problem solved. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Dia-Rub...72.m2749.l2649
 
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Old Dec 3, 2020
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From: Diana,Texas
Rubber pads

Where did you put them? I didn't see any around the door frame on the body side. Are there some on the door itself?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2020
  #6  
Bob C. of Indiana's Avatar
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From: Central ,Indiana
Open door look on top and bottom of the door on the inside of the door.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2020
  #7  
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Correct me if I'm wrong

That will push the door farther away from the body thus creating a bigger gap. I already have rattling doors and a wind noise from the gap. I get that it would put pressure on the door to stop the rattling. But.......
 
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Old Dec 4, 2020
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Bob C. of Indiana's Avatar
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From: Central ,Indiana
I never noticed any wind noise.I did adjust the drivers side latch,seems I used a impact driver to break it loose. All else fails take it to a body shop. Try searching YouTube Good luck!.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2020
  #9  
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From: Diana,Texas
Latch or striker

You shouldn't have to use an impact driver for the latch. I borrowed a technician from works pencil torch and T40 torx socket. Along with his impact driver. Going to heat up the striker screws and then put the impact driver to it and hit it with a hammer. But I've been thinking, doesn't look like theres much adjustment in the striker. I may see if the door latch itself is adjustable.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2020
  #10  
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From: Diana,Texas
Drivers side done

Heated up the screws on the driver's side. Then hit the impact torque driver hard with the hammer.They came loose. So the D.S. striker has been successfully adjusted!!!!Now to do the passenger side this coming up weekend. Thank you everyone!!!!!
 
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Old Dec 7, 2020
  #11  
Bob C. of Indiana's Avatar
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Great that it turned out good!
 
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Old Dec 8, 2020
  #12  
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From: Diana,Texas
I was ecstatic

To say the least. Hopefully the passenger side will go that smoothly
 
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Old Dec 8, 2020
  #13  
Bob C. of Indiana's Avatar
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Hope it goes as smooth!
 
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Old Dec 8, 2020
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From: Diana,Texas
Thank you

Thank you
 
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