Okay guys and or gals, I really need some help. My ranger's battery gauge drops while driving it, initial start up and drive it usually holds steady where it should, but after a little while of driving it the gauge drops then when I have to use my blinkers they tick really slow etc.. I'm getting drain from somewhere and I'm hoping you all can help me before I burn through the alternator.
what happened: one day truck wouldn't start, started checking things etc. had a friend unhook battery was going to have it tested found out battery connection was bad, replaced, and had friend hook up while I did other things. friend hooked up battery backwards and blew the fusible link.
since then.
-soldered new fusible link wire and re-worked the connection
-replaced a blown 15A fuse in the engine compartment
-currently on my second alternator since fusible link blew
-replaced the ground connection to negative battery post
-had battery checked
-swapped battery just in case for integrity of test
when I used tester light the fusible link to the back of the alternator is good and the wires that plug into the alternator are good as well (green with red tracer, and yellow with white tracer or vice versa)
I've been looking online and cannot really find information that I need. I'm really hoping someone can point me in the right direction. If it helps at all with the situation when the fusible link blew my radio also no longer works, I've checked under dash fuses but haven't pulled radio or anything. any help is greatly appreciated

 

so the truck eventually runs out of electricity while driving, is that what youre saying? Because it sounds to me like your alternator is crapped out. If not, we need you to spell out the issue more clearly. My ranger's voltmeter drops too. about 15 minutes after driving around the needle is in a different spot than when i cold start it. But if yours is dropping really low and the electricals are dimming out you either have a corroded ground wire, or a shot alternator, or both. Start with removing every single ground wire in the bay and sanding them down, and sanding the metal down where they touch the frame. Reconnect tightly. Then we need a voltage reading with a multimeter across the battery terminals right before a cold start, a minute AFTER cold start WITH THE TRUCK RUNNING, and again 15 minutes later after driving around WITH THE TRUCK RUNNING (all readings taken at engine idle). Report back.

 

Basically yes the truck seems to run out, it hasn't completely died on me yet partly because I'm not trying to push my luck by driving the truck very far other than testing. so what happens is on start the volts are showing in the normal range, after driving the volt gauge drops to almost the very first line (the lowest point marked on the left of the gauge) at this point it pretty much stays there for the drive until get it back home. during this time the lights dim, the blinkers tick much much slower than normal etc. like in original post this is the second alternator since I've started having issues with the truck. the first one was worse and had a wire burning smell from it so took it off and warrantied it for the one currently on. would you happen to know where I could find a diagram of the ground contacts for the truck? also it just seems strange that only when the battery terminals get crossed and a wire pops would a ground start acting up. I will have to pick up a multimeter and I will report the findings back. I do very much appreciate the input

 

Today I picked up a multimeter and did the tests, here are the results.
Engine off : 12.47V
1 minute after starting : 11.81V
After driving : 8.8V- then dropped to 8.6V battery was dying very quickly on the way back home
cleaned the grounds and contact points that I could find.

 

looks to me like your alternator is completely, 100% dead. Like flatlined. Not only that but you may have damaged your battery as well by bringing the volts down below 10 like that. My voltmeter, even with the full load of the starter, only dips down to 10 volts or so when i crank the engine (I have an aftermarket one). may wanna check with @RonD on this one just to make sure there isn't anything else to look for. I've never swapped the leads on the battery before so IDK what sorts of gremlins that can cause. For now I would start pricing alternators and wait until RonD gives his opinion

 

Ok, I'm not too thrilled about it being this is the second "new" alternator I have put on since this started and now this one is bad as well.
Is there a chance that when the fusible link blew, there could be another short somewhere draining the alternators or something of the sort? it just seems super unlikely that I've gotten 2 bad ones in a row. I definitely do appreciate your input and assistance though. On the bright side, I will be a professional at swapping out these alternators.

 

like i said, you better wait until RonD comes along and posts, idk all the little electrical crap that can fail. Dont do anything just yet, amd DONT DRIVE THE TRUCK. Take an uber

 

"new" alternators are rarely tested, so not unusual to go thru 2 or 3 to get one that works, just FYI

But lets test the trucks wiring

KEY OFF
Test battery voltage first, lets say its 12.4volt

Now on the back or side of an alternator is the "B+" terminal, stud and nut terminal, it will have 1 larger wire or 2 smaller wires, these run directly to battery positive thru a mega fuse or fusible links
Use the metal case of the alternator as the Ground and test voltage on B+ terminal(wires connected), should see "Battery Voltage" exactly, in this example 12.4v
If not the fuse or fusible links are blown or corroded
If voltage it lower then move ground probe to battery negative, if you now see full battery voltage then your battery negative cable is corroded

If you see battery voltage then that connection is OK

Unplug the 3 wire connector on alternator, this is voltage regulator
There will be a Yellow Wire, test it using same method, metal case of the alternator as the Ground and test voltage on Yellow wire, should see battery voltage
If not then a fuse is blown, In engine fuse box the ALT fuse, 15 amp

If its OK then test Light Green wire, should be 0 volts
Turn Key ON
Retest light green wire, should see Battery Volts, can be .1 or .2 less
If no volts then Battery Light circuit is bad, no fuse on that, it comes from ignition switch thru instrument cluster

There is also a White jumper, wire short wire, it should be plug into a single spade terminal in alternators case, unplug it and make sure connection is OK and plug it back in

If the wires all test as OK then start engine
Test battery voltage again
Should see 14.0-14.9volts
If not alternator is bad......................period

After 5-10min of running battery should show 13.5-13.8volts, under 14volts, if so voltage regulator is working