Greetings all,
As are many, I am here to tap into the knowledge, wisdom and experience of those smarter than me, and more experienced than me.

The short version is that I have a 2000 Ranger on Kauai - where it rains every day! Needless to say it's got a lot of problems. At this point I'm resigned to just running it as a farm truck, instead of a farm and dump run truck ;-)

It will not start.

I'm no auto mechanic but I'm persistent and have some experience with the basics.
The battery is good, and I have spare batteries fully charged.
The key will now not crank the engine, so I hot wired the starter solenoid.
The truck has gas.
The fuel pump seems to run when I try to start the engine with the key - I think I can hear it faintly.
I have tried jumping the fuel pump relay

I know I need: gas, ignition, cranking, and after looking on this forum I know the PATS (?) immobilizer system needs to be ok. I have the original keys and for the last couple of years the truck was starting fine.
I read that the PATS system disables the injectors.

I have no problem throwing parts at the truck until I fix the problem, but I'd prefer to do it the smartest way possible.
For example, if I check the fuel pressure with a schrader-type gauge (which I'd have to order), and the PATS system is malfunctioning and preventing the injectors operating, am I fooling myself that I think the engine is getting fuel?

I'll be happy to go into the details of problems with the truck, but for now all I want to do is get it to start, and follow a process which by the experience of others has found to be effective. Any and all suggestions welcome!

Thanks in advance!

 

Welcome to the forum

What engine in this 2000 Ranger?
2.5l 4cyl
3.0l V6
4.0l V6

Only the V6 models had PATS in 2000, just FYI

No crank with key, check swap out Fuse 24 in the cab, 7.5amp

Manual trans has a Clutch switch in the cab to prevent starter motor from working unless clutch pedal is down all the way
Automatic has a switch on the drivers side of transmission, DTR sensor, which must be in Park or Neutral position for starter motor to work, try shifting to Neutral and starting with key

And there is a Starter Relay in the engine fuse box, the 12volts from ignition switch, thru fuse 24, and then the "neutral switch" goes to this starter relay, when this relay closes, stater motor will activate
12v--ignition switch---------fuse 24--------------(neutral switch)---------------------------------starter relay----PATS ground

You can test for 12volts at fuse 24 with key turned to START, if no 12v then ignition switch(under steering column) may be bad

The PATS system Grounds the starter relay, so it PATS is the issue then starter relay wouldn't work
There is a THEFT LIGHT on the dash, it will come on and go off with key ON, and it will flash rapidly with Key ON if PATS disabled start up

50/50 test, key on
Spray fuel into the engine
Crank engine
If it starts and then dies, you have good spark and timing but no fuel delivery
If it doesn't start then you have no spark or no compression

2.5l 4cyl uses a timing BELT these are know to break suddenly, this wouldn't effect starter motor, but engine wouldn't start because cam is not turning, no engine damage occurs just a no start

50./50 no start
CEL(check engine light) will come on with Key ON
This means computer is booting up
Watch the CEL while cranking engine over, it should go OFF, this means computer is seeing a timing pulse from the crank sensor, this timing is needed to start spark and injectors

 

Hi RonD,
Thank you so much!

It's a 2000 4x2 3.0L V6 (according to VIN info) so apparently I'm a lucky owner of a Ranger with PATS ;-( haha

I will follow your suggestions item by item. I very much appreciate such a thorough list!

This no starting is a new issue. It was preceded by the key being impossible to turn (months ago). I freed that up by removing the key switch mechanism and heavily lubricating the area. The key then turned and started the truck (many times). I left the truck for a month (yeah, in the rain, outside, on Kauai) and then the key would turn and the truck would start, but only after many, many attempts (no starter operation. As soon as the starter operated it started). Most recently the key would not activate the starter no matter how many attempts. So I jumped the solenoid with a wire I touch to the positive battery terminal. The starter works immediately, and previously after I cranked it this way, the key would work to operate the starter. Using the hotwired solenoid would usually result in the truck starting. This was the case until a few days ago. Now although the hotwired solenoid still runs the starter the engine will not start.

Update to follow as soon as available

Have a good one

J

 

Forgot to add:

It's automatic trans.

When I got it, first gear was inop. It still is. In removing the ignition/key switch I succeeded in destroying the gear/transmission position indicator. Now I have to "count the clicks" to know what position the trans is in (like I said, junk farm truck ha!). I start driving in 2nd, then select D. When I get real slow, or stop, I select 2nd again.

J

 

Hi RonD,

You're a genius!

I did all your suggested checks and tests. Everything pretty much checked out, although still no start or crank with the key. My guess is I messed up the ignition switch and/or it got super corroded.
Last one I did was spray fuel into the engine - and it did exactly as you described: started and then died. (when cranked with the jump wire to the starter solenoid)

So I'm guessing I have a fuel pump issue. But before a try to take off the rusty bed and change the pump I'll look into any ways to check the wiring to the pump, and/or to jump the pump. Next I'll get a fuel pressure gauge and verify that for sure there is no fuel pressure to the injector rail.

Of course, any suggestions welcome.

For sure you saved me a lot of time and effort. Thanks a million!!

John

 

So does the THEFT light on the dash come on and then go OFF?

In 2000 it should be just below Oil gauge if there is just a speedo and no Tachometer
If there is a Tach and speedo then its below speedo next to right turn blinker
Its says THEFT on it

Light should come on with key on and then go off, if key passed the TEST

Reason you want to check this is that PATS disables Starter motor AND fuel pump and injectors
So ALL the things you have problems with

If THEFT light is not coming on with key ON, then could be a burnt out bulb, so no way to tell if PATS is the issue
Or could be PATS module doesn't have power, so can't enable starter motor and fuel

Check fuses 19 and 26 in cab fuse box, these power PATS module

PATS system has an Antenna around the ignition key , it a ring with a 4 wire plug in, called a transceiver, when key is turned on this Ring reads a number in the handle of the key, this number was programmed into PATS memory at factory, along with 1 or 2 other keys that came with new vehicle
If PATS doesn't get correct matching number from a key or no number then No starter motor and no fuel(spark still works)
And it will Flash the THEFT light rapidly, after 45 seconds or so it will start to Flash a CODE NUMBER, 11 to 16, that tells you why PATS disabled vehicle

Since you worked on/in the steering column could use have unplugged the Transceiver wiring or damaged it?

Having the THEFT light working is important
If THEFT light works and doesn't flash after key is ON then PATS is not the issue

There is no by-pass(work around) for PATS, its a very good anti-theft system


OK, to test if fuel pump is getting power you can look at the Inertia switch, its in the passenger side footwell, behind glove box mounted to firewall close to edge, or its mounted behind the passenger side kick panel
Looks like this: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...tch-jpg.77025/

Has a red button on top
This switch should show 12volt(on either terminal) just after key is turned on, just for 2 seconds, then it will show 5-8volts(this is monitor voltage, no amps)
So turn key off and on a few times to see if voltage is jumping up to 12volts
That means Computer is activating the fuel pump relay, which it WILL NOT DO if PATS has disable then system

 

Hi RonD,

Thanks again.

I see where the THEFT light is - its on the lower section of the Oil Pressure and Coolant Temperature cluster, along with SPEED CONT and O/D on/off. None of these lights including the THEFT light, illuminates with key on, off, or start, or with a "non-chip" key, or even with the key on and the entire cylinder removed (I broke or removed the latch - or ball - which holds the cylinder into the steering column intentionally since I was taking it in and out so much to try to get it lubed and to move).

Yes, it's highly likely I damaged some wiring in the steering column, but that was many, many successful starts and trips in the past.

If I hotwire the fuel pump in some way - either by bypassing the fuel pump relay or some other way - and thus have the fuel pump running constantly, I understand if for some reason PATS is disabling the truck then it will still be disbling the injectors even though the fuel rail has pressure?

Fuses 19 and 26 check good.

 

Yes, no fuel injectors if PATS has been activated

So hot wiring starter and fuel pump doesn't help at all

You can hot wire fuel pump from engine bay
Pull out the fuel pump relay

Ford used two different kinds of relays
This one: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/m...lay-wiring.jpg

And this one: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/m...iring-840x.jpg

In either you use a jumper wire between slots 87 and 30, that will send 12volts to fuel pump full time

You can get your owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/

Page 145 shows fuel pump relay location


Cab fuses 11, 15 and 33 power the cluster systems, i.e. warning bulbs

 

Hi RonD,

Got it started!! Amazing.

Fuses were all good. Still no THEFT or other lights.

Fuel pump relay was jumping 5 and 3 (30 and 87 was starter relay)

It started with the fuel pump relay jumped. Then it started again with the horn relay used in place of the fuel pump relay. Then it started again with the fuel pump relay. Most times with the key, but sometimes with the hotwired starter solenoid.

A common issue appeared to be the position of the shift lever.

Is bypassing the DTR sensor possible?

 

Not a PATS issue then, good stuff

1 to 5 are Ford wiring numbers, 85, 86, 87, 87A, and 30 are universal relay numbers

Yes, cut and connect the Pink and tan/red stripe wires together at the DTR
But it WILL start in gear so be careful

Diagram below

 

Hi RonD,
Careful, you bet!

So before you replied I located the DTR harness and plug and sensor. I detached the plug from the sensor and jumped plug terminals 10 and 12 together.

The ONLY consistent things about the truck now is that the engine cranks when I connect the starter solenoid to the battery positive terminal, and the engine doesn't start without either a jumper or a fuel pump relay in place.
Sometimes it starts with the solenoid jump, sometimes it starts with the key. Sometimes it starts with the fuel pump jumped, sometimes it starts with the fuel pump relay. Sometimes it cranks with the key.
Jumping 10 and 12 of the DTR did not seem to make any difference to the above.

I'm at a loss to find "the problem". So far getting it to start does not appear related to anything I've done. Most parts I look at seem in surprisingly good condition. The ignition switch, buried the the steering column was the original problem. I couldn't get it to turn even with a wrench until I lubed it and worked it free. I'm tempted to see if I can replace that, but alas no junk yards here. And I'm guessing that beyond the key cylinder/lock the ignition switch is wired in to a complex harness..

Yes, I'm glad its not a PATS issue.

Maybe the ignition switch is bad and the fuel pump is on it's last legs? But when it runs, it runs fine.

Thanks for awesome help and patience.

John

 

Maybe its the actuator rod between key and ignition switch

Pull the ignition switch out and use it manually, slide it into its 4 positions, ACC OFF RUN START

 

Hi Ron,

First, thank you so much for hanging in with me on this. As you know, you were the only one who replied to me. But once you're talking with the best, who else do you need? hahaha

So this morning I determined to see if I could remove the ignition switch. It looked simple enough on youTube and I ran a VW Scirocco for more than 10 years with the ignition switch just dangling from the harness - I burned out a couple of switches and got tired of disassembling things to replace the switch.

Well, it didn't look so simple on the Ranger. Seems like the Ranger ignition switch might be buried in the heavy metal surrounding the steering column. I did previously take out the key/lock switch and removed the ball which holds it in place, so its easy to take in and out. I took it out and the actuator rod works fine. I think I recall removing the steering lock mechanism previously, so that's good.

I took of the lower dash cover, and the covers around the steering column. I noticed that the small green plug which plugs into what looks like its the PATS transceiver was not firmly plugged in. It might have been like that or I might have disturbed it this time. But it wasn't broken. With 10 and 12 still jumped on the DTR I was able to start the truck pretty much consistently with the key!! With the jumper removed from 12, it would not start! So I cut the wires and joined them as suggested, and it still starts pretty consistently. And I plugged the DTR back in. It still starts.

It does seem to "think about it" when I insert the key, and sometimes I have to remove the key, wait a few seconds and then reinsert it, so maybe that is just the computers booting up.

I'm going to go with the DTR sensor being the problem, especially since the transmission is faulty anyway (see earlier for no first gear). It's actually unbelievable that this truck runs at all! Hawaii doesn't have a smog test, but they do have an annual "vehicle safety inspection". The rusted out back bumper with probably make it fail the next one.

I'm not 100% certain there are not additional problems - like the fuel pump going bad - but for now if it keeps starting I'm more than fine. And I'm not going to reattach any panels or covers around the steering column!

Thanks again, Ron. I owe ya. You were incredibly generous with your time and expertise. And patient!. I learned a LOT from you.

Best regards

John

 

Good work

You really stuck with it

 

Hi Ron,
The real test is - does it start the next day? The answer is....yes! Thank you again. I couldn't have done this without you my friend.

John

 

All I did was type, lol
You did all the hard work!
But thanks for the recognition