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Hi guys, i want to replicate the anti-slosh module, in my ranger 98 the module always get stuck on full in some cases when the tanks goes empty the gauge reads 1/4+.
Do anyone here have the circuit diagram or have some electronics knowledge?
Here some pictures of my 98 module, manufacture in 97.
I would like to clone this pcb and test the new one, how hard is to do it? whats is the Chip installed for?
In the Ranger 92 to 96 the module has 6 pins, in the 98 has 8 pins.
I want to fix not to bypass. In some cases are a resistor failure or other component in the pcb.
Gas gauge stuck on full - Ranger 1998 Anti-Slosh module PCB Circuit - Upview Anti-Slosh Rear View Anti-Slosh side view Anti-Slosh Side B view
Here some of the values i found with the digital multimetre (Basic one- Not automatic) Some values or component are categorized with the expression (??) cause i dont have a clue how it works.
Where is the Ground pin? Is that is the problem.
The Chip is a "digital clock", so a "timer", rarely has issues
Basically what the anti-slosh module does is to prevent the gas gauge from going up and down when you go around corners and the Float in the tank goes up and down as the gas "sloshes around"
The timer causes Sender OHMs to be "read" at different intervals so creates an average that is displayed on the gauge, you may have noticed(when it was working) than going uphill or downhill for a few miles would cause gauge to change position because gas in the tank was lower or higher based on Floats center position in the tank, so average is displayed at least every few seconds on the gauge
The By-pass just takes the timer/average out of the circuit so gauge displays OHMs as they come in from the Sender, so gauge needle would go up and down as Float did in the tank
There may be a common part that fails on these but I haven't read about what that may be, or it may be that random parts fail so it's a "pick one" scenario, lol
I am not an electronics circuit board level guy
There are several "electronics" forums, I am sure there are other methods to duplicate what the anti-slosh module does in a simpler circuit
The Chip is a "digital clock", so a "timer", rarely has issues
Basically what the anti-slosh module does is to prevent the gas gauge from going up and down when you go around corners and the Float in the tank goes up and down as the gas "sloshes around"
The timer causes Sender OHMs to be "read" at different intervals so creates an average that is displayed on the gauge, you may have noticed(when it was working) than going uphill or downhill for a few miles would cause gauge to change position because gas in the tank was lower or higher based on Floats center position in the tank, so average is displayed at least every few seconds on the gauge
The By-pass just takes the timer/average out of the circuit so gauge displays OHMs as they come in from the Sender, so gauge needle would go up and down as Float did in the tank
There may be a common part that fails on these but I haven't read about what that may be, or it may be that random parts fail so it's a "pick one" scenario, lol
I am not an electronics circuit board level guy
There are several "electronics" forums, I am sure there are other methods to duplicate what the anti-slosh module does in a simpler circuit
I found this diagram of the anti-slosh gauge, reads empty 22(Ω) and 145 (Ω) full, so through the PCB i guess the 16 pins chip is for storage the bits.
No, the 16 pin chip is a "clock" chip, that's all, Google: N7100250FSBACA
Nothing to "store" in this circuit
16ohm empty and 158ohms full is the sender, but 22 and 145 is fine to use as a reference if you build something
You can leave the anti-slosh module out, connect cluster, start engine and then see if any other gauges are effected, they shouldn't be, but the "Check Gauge" light wouldn't work, and of course gas gauge wouldn't work, lol
I think the change from 6 contacts to 8 contacts was when the "Check Gauge" light was added to Rangers, but not sure
No, the 16 pin chip is a "clock" chip, that's all, Google: N7100250FSBACA
Nothing to "store" in this circuit
16ohm empty and 158ohms full is the sender, but 22 and 145 is fine to use as a reference if you build something
You can leave the anti-slosh module out, connect cluster, start engine and then see if any other gauges are effected, they shouldn't be, but the "Check Gauge" light wouldn't work, and of course gas gauge wouldn't work, lol
I think the change from 6 contacts to 8 contacts was when the "Check Gauge" light was added to Rangers, but not sure
Double thanks, I´m learning all this stuff, right from the source i been found the generic Patent.
There's some schematic explaining the logic inside the component
I'd been talking with some electronic guys. This is a pic o a final diagram detection from the outside Pcb.
C means capacitor.
The second capacitor is the black and grey one, the others are in small size in brown colour.
I believe that's the problem is in the ground wire or at last in the tank.
I'd benn talking with some electronic guys. This is a pic o a final diagram detection from the outside Pcb.
C means capacitor.
The second capacitor is the black and grey one, the others are in small size in brown colour.
I believe that's the problem is in the ground wire or at last in the tank. Complete diagram front view