Hi guys, I'm a noob but I can do minor repairs. I have a 2002 Ranger XLT 3.0L. I just recently repaired a transmission oil cooler line leak. after changing the trans fluid and as I held my foot on the brakes to run a gear check, I heard splish hit the driveway at the driver's side rear. I noticed that the intermediate hydraulic line that runs from under the driver's door frame to the rear axle, is rusted out and it's disconnected from the hose to the axle. I have the parts, but I can't pop the line free from the frame clips, It seems too rusted. If I can trace the line to the junction at the driver's door, can I disconnect the bubble nut, run a new steel line bypass to the axle hose, then bleed the brakes? The line to the rear looks like it's the cause. I previously asked a few guys at work who had the same issue with their cars and they did the same repair. They said it's an easy fix with 25 ft of 3/16 inch steel tubing replacement line, trimmed to size. From the pics, the slinky looking line after tracing to the driver's side door, is disconnected near the front. I don't think that was the issue. I attached pics to help sort this out.

slinky line rusted on the right, loose hose to axle on the left. brake line leak seems to be the line above the slinky, that runs to the bubble nut on the left.

driver side rear angle from mid rear axle to the line leak

tracing the line from the rear to under the driver side door frame

under driver door frame

slinky line, discontinued ford part, hydraulic brake intermediate line is not connected at the front, seems to have been bypassed at some time previously. the bubble nut looks to be for the line leak i'm trying to replace.

Thanks

 

quick update. the old rusted line, was bypassed previously. the line with the leak is the bypass. it's a stripped head 3/8 inch. My Dad came by yesterday and suggested to just cut the line near the stripped out nut, cut the old hose to the rear brakes feed lines then run the new bypass from the union under the driver side door. with the new rear feed brake hose connected to the new bypass and install the left and right rear brake lines to the new feeder then bleed. i was able to get the front of the bad line free earlier today, then i went to work on the rear after removing the spare rim from under the rear. i was able to get both the left and right rear lines free with vise grips because they are rusted together. the driver rear nut to the feed is stripped out also but i got it free just as it got dark. i should have the shot line out tomorrow, then i'll be able to run the new line and rear feed. once they're in i'll bleed the brakes and test it. if it goes ok, then i can run to my truck to inspection and have it ready for work on monday.

 

i got the lines free, and picked up a flaring kit. i'll see if i can make the new right rear line tomorrow. the easiest way might be to match the bends i need with the new 25 ft coil, then cut that new line from the coil and place the nuts on before i flare the ends. i measured the old right rear line. it's about 34 inches total before bending to shape. i don't want to cut a new line from the coil length and have it come up short. i'll get it figured out. it's just unfortunate that issues caused some delay to the project.

 

I had issues trying to double flare, the practice line bent while I was turning the flare handle. So, frustrated, I called aaa for a tow to a mechanic down the street last Friday. I picked it up yesterday. All good, they only charged 350 plus tax and a set of fittings. It was about 430 total.