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My truck stalls after a couple of blocks and I need to wait for it to cool to restart and move again. Any idea of what this can be? The strongest contender is a vaccuum leak but I can't find any reliable source of info regarding the hoses. I know there is a hose that is hanging here. If anyone can help me that would be great.
See the tubing broken but I have no clue where it goes as diagrams are not very clear.
The smaller grey hose is for heater core by-pass so not on the engine vacuum system, so won't be on vacuum diagram, it comes from the cab system, it won't cause any engine running issues
You should find the other end going thru the firewall on passenger side of Fan box, down low, there will be a black plastic vacuum line coming thru the same hole in firewall, it runs to Vacuum reservoir at the front passenger side down low, "black ball", just FYI
You can repair it with correct size rubber vacuum line, just splice the ends together, no clamps needed
This line is only use in MAX AC setting, it diverts hot coolant from passing thru heater core in the cab
Describe the stall a little better
So it only stalls when warmed up?
If its a 1989-1994 2.3l then usually its the spark module, ICM, they get heat sensitive, it is on the front side of lower intake
If it only stalls when cold and warming up then ETC sensor issue usually, it runs the Choke Mode as engine warns up
A vacuum leak will always cause higher than normal idle, that's just how gasoline engines work, they have a Throttle Plate that restricts air flow into the engine and that sets the RPM, as throttle plate opens, more air is allowed in so RPMs go up
If you have an air leak after the throttle plate then extra air can come in and RPMs go higher than they should
But yes, too much air without added fuel and engine will for sure stall, but that would come after the higher RPMs are noticed
It is an automatic.
So to describe the problem more precisely I see fluctuations in the RPM from the get go when I turn the ignition.
It will run until it fails and it seems to be when the engine gets warm. So basically I have a few minutes to drive it until that happens. Then I need to sit there until the engine cools down and I can restart it again and drive for a few minutes.
Year is 2001.
So you think the ECT sensor would be it? If the ECT sensor fails does it shut down the engine?
I'll look for one and they seem pretty cheap. Thanks for that tip.
2001 2.3l won't have an ECT sensor, it uses a CHT(cylinder head temp) sensor instead
(1986-1997 2.3l did,so years are important)
CHT could cause it but would, for sure, set a code and turn on the CEL(check engine light)
CHT sensors were a fairly common replacement on the 2001-2012 2.3l engines, but with no code then not the issue
How old is the fuel filter?
Its in the frame rail under drivers seat area, these should be changed every 5 to 8 years
If fuel filter gets clogged up engine will only run for a short time then you have to wait until more fuel can be pushed thru it to get a restart
These usually only cost $10-$15
Unplug Fuel pump relay in engine bay fuse box and start engine, engine will stall when fuel pressure is at 0psi and its then safe to change the filter without getting sprayed with gasoline
Watch some videos about changing the filter may need a tool to remove fuel lines
P0135 - O2 sensor heater circuit
P1132 - Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 1
P0171 - air-to-fuel ratio of your vehicle is too lean
2001 2.3l Ranger will have two O2 sensors
One will be closer to the engine and is called the Upstream O2 sensor, also S1
One will be after the Cat converters on exhaust pipe, it is called Downstream O2 sensor or S2
4cylinder engine only has one Bank, Bank 1, a V6 engine or V8 has two banks, Bank 1 and Bank 2, just FYI
From the codes P0135 and P1132 upstream O2 is unplugged or has bad wires(melted) or O2 itself has failed
Locate that O2 sensor on the exhaust pipe in the passenger side engine bay and use your hand(cold engine) and follow the O2 sensor's wiring from sensor to the Plug-in on the Rangers main wiring harness
Feel for any wire issues, you will know
If wires feel OK then replace that O2 sensor
