Parasite drain?
Hi, I was just doing regular maintenance on a Ranger and noticed that the battery voltage was a little low, around 11.87 volts, but the car still starts. I checked the current consumption and it measured 0.34 Amps or 340 milliamps. So, I checked on fuses and found that #11 and #33 on passenger compartment fuse box were the ones drawing that current (Logic Power and Instrument Cluster Battery Feed B+). I'm wondering if that is normal on this Ford or there could be a problem with the circuit of those fuses? I mean, the car still starts but I guess battery should have a higher voltage and on most cars, I always found consumptions below 0.15 Amps.
Note: Charging system is ok, and battery was installed 3 months ago.
Everything is off and doors closed. Thanks for your time.
2005 Ford Ranger
Note: Charging system is ok, and battery was installed 3 months ago.
Everything is off and doors closed. Thanks for your time.
2005 Ford Ranger
Welcome to the forum
There is a "battery saver" relay that opens after 30min, so you have to hook up the amp meter and then wait with doors closed for 30min to see the actual amp draw, until then SJB is on, it "goes to sleep" after about 30min and turns off the battery saver relay
The only things on after that are computer memory, and radio clock/preset memory which should be about 0.04amps, 40mA, combined
Also if you have keyless entry it has to stay active(to react to Fob buttons) which is another 0.04amps, 40mA
I would be more concerned about battery voltage
New battery is 12.8-13.0volts
3 year old battery 12.5volts
5/6 year old battery 12.3volts and time to shop for battery sales
So do this
After coming home from driving unhook negative battery cable
Test battery voltage, should be higher after driving say 12.9volts, all battery's have a false higher voltage after charging
Test it again after an hour or so, may have dropped a bit so 12.7volts, this is this battery's actual static battery voltage, write it down
Then test it the next morning, after 6+ hours, should be EXACTLY the same as after 1 hour test, if its lower then new battery is self draining, it happens, take it back
Also test your volt meter on another battery, could be chasing a unicorn if volt meter is off, lol
Even a 9v battery
There is a "battery saver" relay that opens after 30min, so you have to hook up the amp meter and then wait with doors closed for 30min to see the actual amp draw, until then SJB is on, it "goes to sleep" after about 30min and turns off the battery saver relay
The only things on after that are computer memory, and radio clock/preset memory which should be about 0.04amps, 40mA, combined
Also if you have keyless entry it has to stay active(to react to Fob buttons) which is another 0.04amps, 40mA
I would be more concerned about battery voltage
New battery is 12.8-13.0volts
3 year old battery 12.5volts
5/6 year old battery 12.3volts and time to shop for battery sales
So do this
After coming home from driving unhook negative battery cable
Test battery voltage, should be higher after driving say 12.9volts, all battery's have a false higher voltage after charging
Test it again after an hour or so, may have dropped a bit so 12.7volts, this is this battery's actual static battery voltage, write it down
Then test it the next morning, after 6+ hours, should be EXACTLY the same as after 1 hour test, if its lower then new battery is self draining, it happens, take it back
Also test your volt meter on another battery, could be chasing a unicorn if volt meter is off, lol
Even a 9v battery
Last edited by RonD; Jul 25, 2023 at 12:31 PM.
I checked for current and it dropped as you said, we always learn something new haha. Coming to battery voltage, I did every step as you mentioned and battery was a bit lower on the 6 hour reading than the 30 min. so I will take it back to the shop for warranty since charging system is doing its job
Thanks for your patience, really helped me out!
Thanks for your patience, really helped me out!
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