My 1997 Ford Ranger's lock cylinder will not spring back after starting the engine. What is the remedy for this situation? What is the fix? Lock cylinder or ignition switch?

 

Could be a few things, but fairly easy to test
Remove ignition lock cylinder

Google: How to Replace Ignition Lock Cylinder 1993-1997 Ford Ranger

While its out use a screwdriver to start engine and see if it comes back on its own from START
If not then problem is in the actuator rod or ignition switch
If it does "spring back" then key cylinder is binding

The ignition switch is under the steering column above the brake pedal, that is where "the spring" is located, inside ignition switch

Google: How to Replace Ignition Switch 95-04 Ford Ranger

Once its out you can move the switch manually to see if it "springs back", if not replace it

Hopefully its one of these 2 things
If its the Actuator rod then steering column must be disassembled

 

Thank you for advising.

 

Was I suppose to follow this procedure of testing with the battery disconnected? I didn't disconnect my battery, now my anti theft alarm is sounding and I cannot start the truck.

 

Since I didn't disconnect the battery did I just "fry" the PATs module?

 

Yes, you can disconnect the battery, you are just testing if spring returns with cylinder out

1997 did have optional factory alarm, or may be a 3rd party alarm
Factory RAP module alarm did have an ignition tamper switch, that probably is what you triggered, should reset once the cylinder is back in place, or the new if thats the issue

 

The anti theft is NOT resetting. Any advice? I need to drive it in the morning to work.... the lock cylinder was the issue. Lock cylinder was binding.

 

Did I just "fry" my RAP module?

 

No, RAP module should be fine

Similar issue here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...-start-169696/
Scroll down post #17

 

I did manage to get my Ranger out of theft mode that morning that I needed it for work, you were correct, the RAP module is fine. How can I go about replacing the ignition lock cylinder? I assume I have the transponder key version? Is there any related threads or tutorials/write ups on replacing the lock cylinder ignition switch? Please advise? Will I need to utilize Forscan for this?

 

No, you can use regular keys, transponders keys were not used until 1999 Rangers and only in V6 models, thru 2001, then all models 2002 and up

You do have an anti-theft wire on the ignition cylinder slot, when cylinder was removed it triggered the anti-theft system
Putting a new cylinder back in should reset that

But did you find out why the old cylinder was sticking?
Did it have broken pins, or was it otherwise visibly damaged?

You can take a new cylinder to a locksmith and they can change the pins to match your current key so one key for door locks and ignition
Or you can use new cylinder as is and have two different keys

 

I watched a video about rekeying an ignition lock cylinder, am I able to tackle this myself? Like, it is not impractical for one to do such, correct?

 

No not impractical, and you should have all the parts(wafers/pins) to insert to match the key from taking apart the old cylinder

You need the correct wafers/pins to insert to match your old key
Locksmiths have "kits" with many different wafers/pins to match any key

 

I guess I did not find out why the lock cylinder sticks, I suspect that is the culprit. I did hear the starter slightly not disengage today, upon start up on my lunch break. Please advise?

 

With cylinder out unhook Negative battery cable
Turn the slotted hole inside the cylinder's hole, to see if its "springing back" every time

You can do with battery connected as well, up to you

 

Okay, so, with lock cylinder out and battery disconnected, I inserted a phillips screwdriver in the column and it does spring back every time. Could it be the starter itself not disengaging?

 

But you said the key wasn't springing back, not that the starter stayed running, two different things

Yes, starter motor can fail to disengage, or the starter relay can
Starter relay would be the cheaper of the two to replace

 

https://www.ranger-forums.com/interi...art-up-173876/

I mentioned it in the "duplicate post". I got panicked and confused.

I also thought the not springing back was causing the starter motor to stick or not disengage.

 

Yes, Key not springing back will cause starter motor to stay on
But starter motor staying on will not cause Key to not spring back

 

I will investigate furthermore, thank you for your time and efforts.

 

I replaced my starter motor with a remanufactured motorcraft unit from rockauto and now the slight failure to disengage or dragging has stopped.