Hi Everyone, I have a 2001 Ranger XLT and replaced the engine with a Ford factory refurbished long block. The engine sounds like a diesel. I have had it back to the dealership 3 times where they change 2 timing sensor cassette2, then the belt pulley, tensioner and belt, the last time they changed the crank pulley. It still sounds like a diesel. Definitely and internal noise, I can determine that with a stethoscope. My warranty will be up this year, so I really want to get this figured out.

 

Have you tried running a tank of 91 or 93 octane fuel?

You have a 4.0l SOHC engine, 2001-2011 Rangers
It runs with 9.7:1 compression ratio, this means it can NOT run 87 octane gasoline without the help of the Knock Sensor
Pinging/knocking "sounds like a diesel" because diesels ping and knock normally but are built to handle that, gasoline engines can't handle it

Trying the higher octane fuel and having the noise get less and less means a problem with your knock sensor, its wire of PCM(computer)

I assume no CEL(check engine light) and no codes?

The engine has to be pulled out to change the 2 Timing chains/cassettes
So its surprising they didn't just put in another long block and send the 1st one back to Ford

You do need to keep after them if you are not satisfied, that's YOUR JOB as the customer, their job is to avoid it, lol

 

Ron, thanks for your response, I would have gotten back to you quicker but I forgot my password to the forum.... story of my life. Any way, I will try the higher octane and see what happens, I will add to my explanation that the noise lessons with higher rpm, I would think with a low octane issue it would bang even harder with increased rpm. I will get back and let you know the results.
Once again, thanks.
Bart

 

Hey Ron, I filled it with 91 octane and ran it down to an 1/8 tank with no change in the noise. I don't even come close to calling myself a mechanic, but I wonder if it could be something like a sloppy wrist pin, a bearing or possibly just something not torqued correctly. But when I guy like myself tells that to the service guy it just seems to make things tense. Does it make any sense to have it running and pull a plug wire to see if the noise changes and work my way down the cylinders?

 

Sure if you want, won't hurt anything to do that
You can do that on the coil pack of its easier
But take each wire off and on first, engine off, at spark plugs or coil pack, so you know they are not stuck, then start engine and try it

 

Would you be able to publish a video of the sound?

I got a remanufactured motor put in mine just over a month ago (ATK DFDJ) and it has a sound similar to a diesel. The shop that installed the motor said they didn't hear anything abnormal. Just did first oil change and sound did not change. Have not tried 93 gas yet, but will check with OBD2 reader for knock sensor data (if possible)

Is the 4.0 sohc a noisy engine and I’m not remembering correctly? Definitely thought engine noise before was pretty limited to exhaust sound but could be wrong

 

How full was the tank before you filled it with 91? Get her empty and try 93 or 94 if available.
Was what they referred to as the "Ford factory refurbed long block" equipped with a new knock sensor or did they just transfer your old one....or buy and install a cheapie?
Are they honest?

+1 on a sound recording. Engines can make tapping + knocking sounds all of which are open to interpretation.
Exhaust gasket leaks are commonly misinterpreted.
Can you vary the load (go up a steep hill) when it's making its sound?

There are guys who'd ask what grade (5W-30 / 10W-30 etc.) oil was used. Depending on the answer, they might suggest a thicker oil; even if only for a brief trial period.

 

Not looking to hijack thread from OP but ultra curious to find out if noise is/will become problematic. Here is an audio clip of my diesel-ish sound, hoping to find out if OPs is similar or different? If not problematic, wonder if we can get 6.7PS badges and just roll with it.

Clip taken after test drive w/ fresh motorcraft 5w30, filled up 87 octane fuel from Top Tier brand recently so cannot test ping theory yet.

 

I know it'd be a bother but could you drain the sump and try a load of 15W-40 jug oil? You're in Florida so it shouldn't be dangerous to do.
The exercise might tell you something.

 

At the moment, I would prefer not to waste the ≈4.5qts of oil that a dinosaur fought and died for (also would be a waste of $25 I could have spent on Taco Bell!) I’ve got a 50 mile commute so I’ll hit the next change in no time.

Is an oil additive like Lucas a worthy enough investment in modifying the viscosity of the existing oil to mimic a higher viscosity in the meantime? Also, do any of the “octane booster” additives actually boost the octane enough to make it worth testing for detonation?

 

An oil thickener is not what you want as the resulting viscosity is vague.
Ditto for octane boosters. The same 50 mile commute will empty your tank soon enough. Use a good brand premium. It'll have
Reuse your 15W-40 experimental oil one qt. at a time through future oil changes. It wouldn't be wasted.

 

No change with ≈1/2 a tank of Shell premium 93, so same result as OP.

My current theory for cause is non-OEM timing tensioners allowing some slop at idle. This would explain the noise only at idle, with increase in RPM the sound completely vanishes. Perhaps hydraulic lash adjusters? thoughts?

Remembering there is a recent recall on the passenger airbag, so planning on contacting local dealership here and having them investigate sound while completing recall. If source is discovered, take info back to shop that did engine replacement and getting it fixed. Otherwise, I will try the 10-15w40 oil and hope it does not end up voiding the warranty for “sabotaging” the engine with improper oil.

 

Well I am unsure about OP, but I will not be testing thicker oil as a fix for the diesel / rattle sound. Just drained the oil and was gearing up to try 10w40 but noticed some SERIOUS grit in my drain pan. Felt like I had dipped the drain plug in sand before I reinstalled it.

Got the old oil bottled up and taking it along with the filter to the mechanics that did the reman swap. (Drain pan is cleaned before and after every oil change, so it definitely came out of the engine)



It is my suspicion the sound is aftermarket or incorrectly installed timing components, since as I’ve read and read and read, with a 4.0 SOHC, if there’s a rattle… it’s timing chains related.

Thanks for the input but this is going back to the shop. Opted for the 3 year warranty for this very reason.

 

Hello to all who have graciously responded to my post. I apologize for not responded to several as I have not received any notices since I last reponded.

So in light of that... I have tried the octane approach, the oil approach, replacing the timing cassette, replacing the tensioner, belt and pulley and lastly changing the crank pulley all by advice of the dealership of which I have no faith in. No I sit 2 1/2 years out with an additional $1000 in repair on top of the $5000 that I spent on the Ford long block. So I have insisted on a new engine from Ford and the paper work is filed whether or not that will happen is doubtful but they have agreed to pursue it.

I have attached a video to listen to for those who requested it.

Thanks so much for you input, I will update this post when I get an answer from Ford.

 

Not sure if OP was ever able to get a concrete answer as to what the sound ended up being, but mine was timing chains. Just like all the other forum posts relating to 4.0 SOHC engine noises, it’s always the timing chains :(

Did the 5k miles as the mechanics advised, took it back to them, they popped off a valve cover and said the chains were flopping around. New engine ordered under warranty.