Fogs
Fogs
Wired fogs (2 55w) off of fuse box using 10 amp fuse as lights draw a tad over 9 amps. Very quickly white from tap was red hot. Should I move wire back to battery, use a relay, ??? Used wiring included, followed instructions. Touched power & accessory wires to eliminate bad switch. I’m stumped.
16, what was supplied with kit. Update, when I found the wire hot, I traced it back and the whole add-fuse wire (16) and prongs were also hot. Moved supply back to battery with 20 amp fuse, so far so good. I have heard neg things abt those piggy back add-ons. Still use relay or not? Also, power window/lock switches quit, was the ground, easy fix. Now, suddenly (within 3 hrs) door ajar/key in ign/headlight on switch quit. Could that also be ground, switch not at all easy to get to and would like to avoid changing.
Can do the same thing with a relay for 1/10 of the cost, police in my neck of the woods aren’t that fond of super bright LED’s. I’m not either, I’ve been blinded by oncoming cars way too many times. Also going back to battery powered, add a fuse for some reason is what’s heating up in the fuse box.
Can do the same thing with a relay for 1/10 of the cost, police in my neck of the woods aren’t that fond of super bright LED’s. I’m not either, I’ve been blinded by oncoming cars way too many times. Also going back to battery powered, add a fuse for some reason is what’s heating up in the fuse box.
Don't lump the good LEDs and those who understand this in with all the bad LEDs and those who fall for low prices on over-rated ones.
As I mentioned, I can solve the current draw with a $5 relay vs. $50 LED’s, as the halogen lights serve my purpose just fine. My original question was why does the the add a circuit overheat but directly off of the battery doesn’t. I was using the fuse box because I wanted switched power to eliminate forgetting to turn lights off.
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