2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Short to ground I can't seem to find

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Old Dec 12, 2025
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Konnscious@gmail.com's Avatar
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From: Philo, California
Short to ground I can't seem to find

Working on the bosses 1989 Ranger with a 2.9. Evidently it has had a intermittent no crank no start issue that eventually became a problem. Brand new starter relay, charged battery, completely removed cleaned and tested continuity for the entire molded negative battery cable and both places it attaches to engine and frame. You turn the key and no power no nothing. No lights, brake lights, dash lights etc.. but I can get it to crank by jumping terminals on the starter relay but it won't stay running regardless of what position the ignition is in. Replace the ignition switch on top of the column. Nothing. I find it strange that it will crank without the clutch pedal being pressed in. Is that indicative of a problem at the clutch safety switch? Also the wires at the eec test connectors that attach to the side of the power distribution box are showing copper and corroded . Related? Please any insight advice or ideas would be more than welcome to at this point. Thanks again.
 

Last edited by Konnscious@gmail.com; Dec 12, 2025 at 02:03 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2025
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Why do you suspect a "Short to Ground"? Nothing you mentioned
indicates a "short"
 
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Old Dec 14, 2025
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I would check if the clutch petal switch is operating okay since we know it can prevent cranking. It’s probably not relevant that you can bypass everything and get it to crank with the clutch engaged.
My ‘89 manual has a switch on the M5OD that tells the computer whether or not the tranny is in neutral. It might be monitored when cranking. But I think you don’t have to be in neutral to start it. The tranny has two switches, one for the reverse lights and the one that tells the ECM if you’re in neutral.
When it won’t crank I would check if the ignition switch is powering the starter solenoid.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2025
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Konnscious@gmail.com's Avatar
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From: Philo, California
Originally Posted by 89longbed
I would check if the clutch petal switch is operating okay since we know it can prevent cranking. It’s probably not relevant that you can bypass everything and get it to crank with the clutch engaged.
My ‘89 manual has a switch on the M5OD that tells the computer whether or not the tranny is in neutral. It might be monitored when cranking. But I think you don’t have to be in neutral to start it. The tranny has two switches, one for the reverse lights and the one that tells the ECM if you’re in neutral.
When it won’t crank I would check if the ignition switch is powering the starter solenoid.
I'm not even getting power to the ignition..or the instrument cluster or any other lights..i can jump the starter relay posts under the hood and it cranks, regardless of whether i have the clutch in or what position the ignition lock cylinder is in...
 
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Old Dec 15, 2025
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From: Ingelside, TX
That is NOT an indication of a "Short", that is an indication of an "Open", just the opposite of a Short.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2025
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Starter circuit

See the attached wirining diagram from a Haynes manual. As JimIsbell states, you're probably looking for an open circuit. It might be the EEC wiring but I would start with figuring out why it won't crank over with the key. You should find +12v on the red wire from the battery to the starter solenoid and on to the power distribution box. Then check that those fuses are okay, especially the one for the yellow wire going to the ignition switch. From there it looks like a pink wire goes to the clutch petal switch, then it eventually makes its way to the starter solenoid as red with light blue. You could start at the end, but keep in mind you should need the clutch petal pressed down for the circuit to go that far.
 
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