Timing chain?
Off but on topic, I had a boat with a hyper stroker motor, I had an inline switch in the ignition circuit that allowed me not let it start until the oil gauge shower pressure. Is there a place for me to wire in a switch which know will eliminate the start up rattle and extend its life?
Phil
Phil
Last edited by Oldphil; Apr 2, 2026 at 02:23 PM. Reason: Additional wording
I believe the clear flood mode (no fuel with key at Start if throttle wide open) is a std feature for all EEC4 and EEC5 systems. You may have a stretched throttle cable and petal on the floor isn’t WOT at the the TPS.
You could also install new timing chain tensioners. They are not that difficult to install.
BTW, it is not the chains that go bad, it is the guides (cassettes) that break. The 01 4.0 SOHC engines were the worst about failed cassettes. If you are getting rattle only at start up, they may still be good. If you get rattle at around 2500 rpm, they are probably failing. Once they fail you can get timing chain skip and serious problems.
BTW, it is not the chains that go bad, it is the guides (cassettes) that break. The 01 4.0 SOHC engines were the worst about failed cassettes. If you are getting rattle only at start up, they may still be good. If you get rattle at around 2500 rpm, they are probably failing. Once they fail you can get timing chain skip and serious problems.
Last edited by IN2 FX4; Apr 15, 2026 at 10:01 AM.
It only has 60,000 on it, supposedly they will go three or four times that with decent care I am a fanatic with my stuff. My stuff has to carry me there fore they only get the best.
When I sold my subi with 380,000 I had several takers an got top dollar,
Phil
When I sold my subi with 380,000 I had several takers an got top dollar,
Phil
It may still be a good idea to change the tensioner at 60K miles. Age is also a factor. The tensioners have a spring in them to provide tension on the chain until oil pressure builds up. That spring can get weak with age and if you are getting rattle at startup, the spring(s) are getting weak. If you don't mind using the flood mode at startup, that works too. Just make sure you do it every time because I understand that rattle at start up is what kills the cassettes.
When I did the cam timing chain system rebuild at 250K miles, the cassettes were still good but were very brittle. There is also a mechanical tensioner on the chain that goes from the crank to the jackshaft. Mine was completely broken off. Those early mechanical tensioners were weak and failure is fairly common. They upgraded them for later 4.0 SOHC engines. I installed the upgraded version.
I tend to be a fanatic about maintenance on my vehicle too. My Ranger has almost 312K miles on it now and still runs like new with no oil burning either. The engine has only been partially taken apart to do the cam timing system rebuild.
When I did the cam timing chain system rebuild at 250K miles, the cassettes were still good but were very brittle. There is also a mechanical tensioner on the chain that goes from the crank to the jackshaft. Mine was completely broken off. Those early mechanical tensioners were weak and failure is fairly common. They upgraded them for later 4.0 SOHC engines. I installed the upgraded version.
I tend to be a fanatic about maintenance on my vehicle too. My Ranger has almost 312K miles on it now and still runs like new with no oil burning either. The engine has only been partially taken apart to do the cam timing system rebuild.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



