Hey guys I have noticed in some of your signatures it says under your mods list "#1 Torsion keys" What are these?

 

never heard of #1 torsion keys, but #1 torsion bars are the stiffest of the bars and hold up well against sagging after doing a t-bar crank.

 

whats the cost on a pair?

 

if i remember correctly $80 a side from ford.

 

Maybe it was Torsion bars i read and not keys. My bad. So Ford sells these eh? Are they like F-150 torsion bars so they are stronger or are they just for rangers but are different than stock? And how does the stiffness of them make them better to use after a torsion bar crank?

 

basically explorer 5.0L bars. which will provide more lift.

the price has gone up there more then $80 a side now..

 

different trim levels also factor in which bar youll have..

my dealership quoted $137 for driver side and $138? for passenger.. canadian mind ya..

 

yeah mine had #1 bars from the factory

 

my 02' had number one bars...stiffer ride than my buddy's cobra and if I went over a speed bump too fast the front wheels would hop off the ground, I HATED them

 

How do I tell what kinda torsion bars i have? Does anyone have the part # for the #1 torsion bars? And how do you install them?

 

I like the #1 bars on my 02 FX4. They work well off-road and not too bad on speed bumps. There is a certain speed that will make the tires hop off the ground on speed bumps. I either go faster or slower than that speed and all is well. Depending on what kind of speed bump, I will go anywhere from 15 to 20 mph over them or I will go 30+. The higher speed works the suspension pretty good and I don't do that very often.

 

did you just seriously compare your truck to a mustang... really... really... i can tell your not a truck person..


look on door tag for spring.. should be like BK or 1F bla bla first letter/number is T-bar

 

Cool thanks Zach

 

Ford Part ##s for Reference...

F67Z-5B326-FA Pass side
F67Z-5B326-FB Drivers side

 

haha riiight... I compared the STIFFNESS, as far as im concerned a cobra thats built for road racing should be a lot stiffer than my truck... whats wrong with that

 

is it a direct bolt on replacement? do you have to buy anything or mickey mouse together anything?

 

i don't think so, you just undo some screws and pull them out. (coles notes)

*someone whose done it wanna chime in with step by step*

 

put truck on jack stands, remove T-bar cage, back out bolt, 2 jaw puller run in the key and remove key stop, run out puller, remove bar, put key on new bar, reinstall, run bolt back in preset 15 turns after bolt seated on key


takes about 30 min for both sides total..

 

I prefer the method of unbolting everything upfront so that it'll allow enough down travel of the lower control arm and in turn pivoting the key off the stop...

unbolt upper shock mount.
unbolt sway bar link.
unbolt CV shaft nut(may or may not have to do this)
unbolt upper balljoint bolt(jack under control arm.)
unbolt torsion bar cover/skid plate
unbolt adjustment bolt.
lower jack under control arm enough to pivot the arm down and release tension off of the key stop, then slide the stop out, pull down on the key, slide bar out of arm.


I used a big c-clamp which I found unsafe and I used a 2 jaw puller, and that was REALLY unsafe IMO and it took my 2 jaw out of commission. Found my way doesn't add much time at all to the swap.

 

i want #1 bars someone send me a pair

 

so the factory adjustment is 15 turns. incase when i do this for my keys, i forget how many turns it took to undo the bolts. thanks.

 

your doing WAY WAY WAY to much work support the FRAME with the jack leave the tire on still on the ground that way the weight which would be on the T-bar is now on the jack but the A-arm will not swing down because the tire is still there.

Honestly Shane we did 2 truck back to back. Tylers and mine, Mine was like 35 min. Tylers was like 26min...

 

really? cuz this is what it looked like when my tool failed on me...



I did it this way with all hand tools on the 2nd side, took a whopping 35 min for the second side from wheel off to wheel on. 1st side the 2jaw took a dump on me. Austin's truck, my truck, and Cory's truck was done via the c-clamp trick which was really sketchy to begin with.



so how'd you cure the issue of the 2 jaw wanting to twist towards the outside of the truck on that CURVED trans/torsion xmember???



I guess I'd rather do it the safe way that way I don't have a tool breaking loose on me and flying towards my head. But maybe that's just me.

You mentioned 15 turns on each side? Wrong. You know this.....driver side is turned more than the passenger side to make the truck level left to right.

BTW, so what if I skipped a step. The step of getting the frame up via jackstands, that way the trucks weight is off the bars.