Recently I had to change my rear wheel seals, pinion seal etc. This ment that I needed to replace my rear brakes since they were totally saturated with synthetic gear lube.

I replaced the shoes, selt adjusters, spings, and wheel cylinders. Before this seal leakage, I had replaced the drums. First rear brake job was done at 45k miles. Second brake job was done at 65k miles.

Now for the problem. It seems that my rear brakes are overheating... But it does not happed all the time, only some of the time. I get shaking in the truck but I am unsure if this is some of the front rotors possibly being warped.

The rear drum is hot enough that if I spit on it, the spit boils and goes away very quick. I am physically burnt if I touch it. This happens on the passanger side it seems only. But the drivers side seems to be just warm to touch. The dragging does not seem to happen on the drivers side.

Now for what I am looking for as in information:

1. What could be going wrong?
2. Am I missing a component in the brakes? I have 5 spings total, two at the top, one on the bottom going from shoe to shoe, one holding the self adjuster tab, and one pull on the back of the self adjuster tab on the cable portion.
3. Does anyone else have 10" drums with this problem?
4. Does anyone have a picture of theirs that is working properly???


Help!

 

is your ebrake sticking at all? is the adjuster working correctly? can you spin it by hand? i would tear it all apart and see whats going on in there.

 

How would I tell if the ebrake is sticking? isn't the ebrake just one of the shoes? I think the adjuster is working right. I can spin them by hand. I thought it was the cylinders. so I changed them 2 days ago. Problem still exists.

 

sounds to me like the cable for the ebrake is sticking on that side. either that or the new wheel cylinder is hanging up. is there a rubber line or a hard line going to the wheel cylinder?

 

hardlines, they are what was there. If the ebrake cable is sticking what could be done about this? The wheel cylinders seem to work good, when bleeding the brakes they were functioning well.

 

When you replaced the shoes did you put the long shoe toward the rear of the truck ?

 

okay. if its going to be the cables, you could try greasing them, but that usually doesnt work. your best bet is to just replace them, usually no more than 20 at your local auto store (i work at advance auto), and thats what ive found when workin on my truck too. greasing never really seems to work out in the long run, and ive always had the same problem come back within a week or two.

 

hmmm.. I never even thought of replacing these... haha its the last component left. Could a warped drum do this? I don't see why they would be warped... except the driving on the gear lube filled drums for 10k miles. But gear lube should have kept them cool enough (yes I cleaned it all checmically).

I replaced the shoes as I found them. They were factory original when i first changed them. I believe the long shoe is in the rear, they seemed to be about the same size. The long shoe has the stud in it for the auto adjuster piece correct?

 

they would be a good idea to replace probably, you could have the drum checked to see if its warped as well.

 

I can probably check if the drum is warped with a dial caliper to see if there is high/low spots or if it is cylindrical...

How would I know for sure if its the parking brake cable? and how hard are they to change. I'm getting sick of doing brake work. haha.

 

if its stuck? your gonna have a fun time with it. if its just sticking a little, it shouldnt be tooo bad. as far as how would you know, see if you can get it all unstuck in the rear and try just driving it around, using only brakes. if it doesnt stick, apply parking brake, if it doesnt let go, it probably it. do you ever use the parking brake?

 

I use the parking brake only when I jack up the front of the truck to do some work. I had the parking brake set hard when I had the front jacked up messing around with the torsen bars and spark plugs today.