2000 2.5 5 speed no code misfire
2000 2.5 5 speed no code misfire
Have replaced the plugs wires and coil pack but still sounds like a bad misfire and really rough idle. While driving I can have it in gear with my foot off of the gas and it’ll maintain the same speed. But when I have my foot off the gas and press in the clutch to change gears or put it in neutral it will rev up real high
Welcome to the forum
Reads like you have a vacuum leak
Warm up the engine, and let it idle
Unplug the 2 wire connector on IAC Valve, it looks like a can on its side, its on the air intake for the engine, computer uses it to set idle RPMs
When its unplugged the idle should drop down to 500rpms or so maybe even stall, either is good, no vacuum leaks
If idle stays high then you do have a leak somewhere
I use soapy water in a spray bottle(sprays a stream), engine will stumble when it sucks it in, and worse case you have a cleaner engine when you are done, lol
Some use flammable sprays; ether, carb cleaner, propane, I worry about fires so I don't
Engine RPM is controlled by AIR not gasoline
Gas pedal lets in more air, should be called "air pedal" but that ship has sailed, lol
More air = higher RPM
A vacuum leak means engine is getting more air than it should when foot is off the pedal, throttle closed, as simple and as complicated as that
Yes, if engine is under a load, in gear clutch pedal up, RPMs will be lower than no load and clutch pedal down
There is also software that holds RPMs high when shifting a manual trans, but only for 5 to 7 seconds, if RPMs stay high longer then vacuum leak
Reads like you have a vacuum leak
Warm up the engine, and let it idle
Unplug the 2 wire connector on IAC Valve, it looks like a can on its side, its on the air intake for the engine, computer uses it to set idle RPMs
When its unplugged the idle should drop down to 500rpms or so maybe even stall, either is good, no vacuum leaks
If idle stays high then you do have a leak somewhere
I use soapy water in a spray bottle(sprays a stream), engine will stumble when it sucks it in, and worse case you have a cleaner engine when you are done, lol
Some use flammable sprays; ether, carb cleaner, propane, I worry about fires so I don't
Engine RPM is controlled by AIR not gasoline
Gas pedal lets in more air, should be called "air pedal" but that ship has sailed, lol
More air = higher RPM
A vacuum leak means engine is getting more air than it should when foot is off the pedal, throttle closed, as simple and as complicated as that
Yes, if engine is under a load, in gear clutch pedal up, RPMs will be lower than no load and clutch pedal down
There is also software that holds RPMs high when shifting a manual trans, but only for 5 to 7 seconds, if RPMs stay high longer then vacuum leak
Only original Motorcraft and Hitachi IAC valves will work, they're solenoid valves, the other aftermarket valves are stepper motors or hybrids. But sometimes Hitachi won't work either.
I replaced my Motorcraft IAC with a Hitachi ABV0016 which is supposed to be the proper replacement but I had several issues until I recently reinstalled the old Motorcraft. (I had cleaned the Motorcraft IAC last year but decided to try the new Hitachi).
There were high idle issues just like a vacuum leak even though I tested twice with a smoke machine and found no leaks. The CEL kept coming on with P1506 (IAC valve duty cycle higher than expected) right after I'd clear the codes.
After putting up with this for almost a year I put the old IAC back on and the truck's been running fine. I put app. 200 miles on it so far with no CEL or codes.
If you kept your Motorcraft IAC you might want to clean it and put it back on, if you haven't tried yet.I used Throttle Body Cleaner to clean mine.
Here's a link to a video explaining the cleaning procedure:
You might still want to check for vacuum leaks anyway like Ron instructed in his post, then you know if your lines and connections are good or not.
I replaced my Motorcraft IAC with a Hitachi ABV0016 which is supposed to be the proper replacement but I had several issues until I recently reinstalled the old Motorcraft. (I had cleaned the Motorcraft IAC last year but decided to try the new Hitachi).
There were high idle issues just like a vacuum leak even though I tested twice with a smoke machine and found no leaks. The CEL kept coming on with P1506 (IAC valve duty cycle higher than expected) right after I'd clear the codes.
After putting up with this for almost a year I put the old IAC back on and the truck's been running fine. I put app. 200 miles on it so far with no CEL or codes.
If you kept your Motorcraft IAC you might want to clean it and put it back on, if you haven't tried yet.I used Throttle Body Cleaner to clean mine.
Here's a link to a video explaining the cleaning procedure:
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