1994 b2300 manual 2wd.

On a cold start, it will idle fine until it is put into gear. As soon as the clutch begins to engage, it starts sputtering. It will continue to do this until either
1. It stalls out and is restarted
2. I Push the clutch in and rev the motor

After either of these happen, it usually clears up until it sits for 8+ hours.

I have cleaned the maf sensor, and it looks properly seated, plugs and wires were just changed. I don't have a CEL on at this time.

Other then a fuel filter, are there any other items that could be causing this issue?

 

Welcome to the forum

Any gasoline engine needs to be Choked on cold start, fuel injected engines are no exception
But the Computer needs to do the Choking because there are no Jets, so a Choke plate won't work

So on cold start the RPMs of the engine should be 1,100 or so, the colder it is outside the higher it will be, as engine warms up idle will drop
Computer does this and also runs engine richer(choked) until it warms up
The computer uses/needs the ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor to do this, its not an expensive sensor and they do fail

If you are not getting the high idle at cold start then I would replace the ECT sensor on spec

The computer uses the IAC(idle air control) Valve to set idle RPMs, if it was failing idle wouldn't be high cold, but engine also wouldn't stall if you tried to drive it cold because Choke would be set, just idle RPMs would be low

 

Thank you for the input!

It sounds like it is idling correctly on startup. It is hard to be sure since it does not have a tachometer.

The issue comes to light when i try to drive, but it idles fine.

I will look into a new coolant temp sensor, mine always reads extremely low, even after a new thermostat.

 

The dash temp gauge uses a temp SENDER, 12volt, so a different part, the ECT sensor is 5volt and only used by the computer, just FYI
Yes the 2.3l runs cool, and the temp sender is in the rear drivers side of the head instead of top front like most temp senders

If it has a high idle on cold start the ECT sensor is most likely working fine, as is the IAC valve
ECT sensor could be off a bit causing the stalling, so not enough Choke to drive

There are some test you can do after engine is warmed up
Located the IAC Valve on throttle body and its 2 wire connector
While engine is idling unplug the 2 wire connector, idle should drop down and engine may even stall, this means no vacuum leaks
If idle does not drop then you have a small vacuum leak

Spark plug test
Shut off warm engine
Unplug the 3 wire connector on ONE coil pack, so no spark from that coil pack
Start engine
Should idle smoothly, if there is a misfire then one of the spark plugs(or wires) on that coil pack is not working

Shut engine off and test the other coil pack the same way

These 2.3l engines ran fine on 4 spark plugs from 1974 to 1988, the other set of spark plugs added more power, same for the Dodge Hemi
So the engine can run fine on 4 spark plugs just less power

4 valves per cylinder added even more power so the dual spark plugs were phased out, the 4 valves was a better use of head space, just FYI