94 ranger with 2.3L 4cyl, 2wd, 200000 miles? odo is rolled over. Truck sat for a year and I bought for cheap, don't know much about the history. When driving, trying to give it more than a nudge on the throttle and the engine looses power and starts to die. Really has nothing to give as far as acceleration.
It started easily the first couple times, but is a pretty rough cold start. It will crank and not start, second try will start for a second and die, third time run for a bit longer, fourth time will run and keep idling, though when I've walked away from it running it seems like it it dies within 10 minutes or so. No tachometer but it sounds like the idle isn't super steady, but not obvious from the cab. Sometimes seems like it'll start more easily.
When it's idling, right after start it bogs down and nearly dies if you try to give it gas like it does in gear. I can get it to rev up if I nudge the throttle reaallly slowly, just like when you're driving but a bit easier to get to rev. Once it's a bit warmer, you can usually get it to rev up quickly but with a little hesitation.

First tried cleaning the MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body, checked a couple plugs and looked good/pretty new. Looked at a few other things that seemed unrelated: cracked and taped air box, little gap in the weld where a new muffler was put on that I'm planning on getting welded by a friend. I hear the fuel pump cycle on when I turn the ignition on.
I have a ford OBDI scanner that I have not been able to get a code off of. I don't get a "talking to computer" icon with a key on engine off test, I do get that icon when the engine is started but no codes come through. Attaching a video of the codes from the CE light, seems like a lot of slow blinks, possibly a 121 code somewhere in there? Not totally sure what I was seeing.

Thinking it could be throttle position censor, bad coils, bad fuel pump, but really not sure. Any thoughts or what to try next?

Video of starting idling and revving Video of CE codes

Get a code reader (like $30), that will really help you to troubleshoot the problem.

I picked one up today but haven't been able to get a code off of it.. not sure why.

What kind did you get? I use INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital OBD1 Code Reader.

Change the ECT sensor just on speculation, thats the sensor that tells the computer when to CHOKE the engine so it can start and run cold

Its a 2 wire 5volt sensor should be top front of engine, not to be confused with the 12volt Dash Temp Gauge sender, drivers side rear

Also get a new fuel filter before a new Pump

And I had to swap out my 3 Capacitors in my 1994 Ranger computer last year, they leaked and were cause odd running issue with no codes and then I got odd codes, lol
Free to pull out computer and have a look at the circuit board, capacitors are obvious
And its good to unplug the 60 pin connector and plug it back in, some of the pins can get a build up and change sensor voltages a bit

TPS would be a long shot, but not a no shot, unplug it, and start the engine, should get a CEL(check engine light) right away
Do the same for MAF, unplug and start engine, should set a code
Do this as a "sanity" check to make sure computer is setting codes and you can retrieve them

The ONLY sensor an engine can NOT run without is the Crank sensor(or distributor)

Yep, that's the one I have. I'm surprised I haven't been able to get anywhere with it?

Will check the TPS and a few of the other things RonD mentioned.

Yes, do a "sanity" test on computer, unplug a sensor, to make sure it CAN/DOES set codes

Sanity test failed. :( Pull maf sensor, CE light on, still nothing from the code reader. No "talking to computer triangle" as if it weren't plugged into anything. Maybe that itself is a pointer in the right direction? I'm going to pull the computer out in a bit here to see if there's anything in there that looks obvious. I have soldering equipment around, you think it's worth trying to replace capacitors if they're blown? Or better to just swap in a new ford computer.

Checked the TPS with a volt-meter while I was in there, 5-5.1V on one wire, 0.9V in idle and goes all the way up to 4 or 4.5 when throttle is moved open. Seems like that's working right. Down below, seems like the fuel filter is pretty new. I think the previous owner may have replaced it recently.

Is there a way to test the ECT sensor before replacing it? Is there anything in here that sounds like a vacuum leak? Truck died within 20 seconds when I pulled the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator. I think I would try to test fuel pressure before getting down there and actually swapping the pump.
Thanks for the help.

ECT uses same 5volts as TPS, most sensors share that 5volts from computer, just FYI
When engine is cold say 70deg outside you should see about 2 to 3volts on "other wire"
When warmed up(180deg) just under 1volt, you can test with engine off after warming it up, just need key on for the 5volts

Temp vs voltage seen here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...jpg?1583516355


Yes, pull out the computer, something is wrong, may just be the connector had some moisture intrusion and over time has corroded
Move each capacitor with finger, 1 of mine looked fine but wire broke as soon as I moved it, lol, so if possible replace all 3 or 2 if that's all you have, there were different versions

My 1994 looked similar to this one with 3 blue caps, but 2 were in different locations: http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv
Each as a different value, which needs to be matched exactly
Also different Voltage, but you can use a higher voltage as long as the uF matches, i.e. its OK to use 47uF 100v to replace a 47uF 16v, but never use a lower voltage
And they are polarity sensitive, there is a + and - side that needs to be followed/matched
Take lots of picture, lol

Sorry for the much delayed response here and to revive this old thread. I neglected the truck for a year and a half until it needed to move. Final diagnosis I believe is just a failing fuel pump. Getting just 15-20psi on the fuel rail, not changing much between KOEO or while running. Thought I remembered the guy who sold it saying something about a new fuel tank and pump, but who knows at this point. Seems like not enough gas explains most of its symptoms.

Never did figure out what was up with the electronics and never getting a code off the reader, but I don't think that's related. It's pretty rusty and probably needs transmission work, radiator, etc. and some more, so this is the end of the road. But thanks for the advice.