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  #1  
Old 04-21-2010
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Rough Start (cold)

So I've been looking at the forums and noticed I'm not alone with this problem, was hoping to get a better answer, so here it goes:

So I try and start the ranger after letting it sit over night and it starts like ****. Sometimes it even stalls. It cranks fine, and once started it idles at about 1500 - 2000 rpms and shakes like crazy for a few seconds, then drops down to about 1000rpm and feels fine. Sometimes it feels like it's idling rough at a stop light, but not too bad.

I've gotten no error codes (at least the last time I checked). Seems like the colder it is out the harder it is to start. If I were to not start it until like 1 or 2pm it usually starts a little better. What could it be?
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Old 04-21-2010
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Maybe it just doesn't like mornings....hah.... just joking. Someone will probably hop in here and help ya out.
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Old 04-22-2010
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i have the same problem as the OP stats on my ranger is a 92 3.0 with 180.XXX
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Old 04-22-2010
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I think ima go out on a limb and try replacing the IAC
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Old 04-22-2010
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1 Fuel filter , Has it ever been changed ?
2 Plugs and wires . Ditto
3 Check for vacuum leaks . A small one might not throw a code.
4 High idle at start when cold like you describe is normal. IAC is working like it should.
5 Gas . Running 93 octane can cause hard starts. The engine was designed for 87.
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Old 04-22-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRtech View Post
1 Fuel filter , Has it ever been changed ?
2 Plugs and wires . Ditto
3 Check for vacuum leaks . A small one might not throw a code.
4 High idle at start when cold like you describe is normal. IAC is working like it should.
5 Gas . Running 93 octane can cause hard starts. The engine was designed for 87.
I doubt the fuel filter has been changed
Plugs and wires were changed last spring
No vacuum leaks
And I only use 87

Guess I'll try changing the fuel filter if the IAC is running like it should
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Old 04-22-2010
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Pull the plugs and re-gap them anyway.
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Old 04-22-2010
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I have every single symptom you described.

My problem stems from a warped head on the driver's side. I noticed it originally when I was losing coolant, an application of Blue Devil fixed the coolant loss into the cylinders, but it has still lost compression across all three of those cylinders.

First step would be to do a compression check, check each cylinder. Typically it should be between 140 to 150. My readings were this:

Driver's side - 90, 100, 90
Passenger's side - 150, 148, 152

Rule of thumb is no more than a 10% drop between any of the cylinders.

Nowadays I have to start it by holding the pedal at 1/4 throttle and keep the RPMs up between 1,000 to 2,000 RPM for 30 to 45 seconds. Let the throttle go, it will drop low, stumble, give the throttle a few more blips and usually it will idle without stalling.

Do you notice the problem becomes less pronounced when the engine is fully warmed up?
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Old 04-22-2010
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YES! as stated above! when warm truck starts and idles fine and i also notice a faint smell of coolant when i turn the truck off tooo could it possibly but head gaskets? and not a warped head? as my ect gauge doesnt work and ive put in 3 clusters,2 thermostats and replaced the water pump any hints on this one?
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  #10  
Old 04-22-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84FordMan View Post
I have every single symptom you described.

My problem stems from a warped head on the driver's side. I noticed it originally when I was losing coolant, an application of Blue Devil fixed the coolant loss into the cylinders, but it has still lost compression across all three of those cylinders.

First step would be to do a compression check, check each cylinder. Typically it should be between 140 to 150. My readings were this:

Driver's side - 90, 100, 90
Passenger's side - 150, 148, 152

Rule of thumb is no more than a 10% drop between any of the cylinders.

Nowadays I have to start it by holding the pedal at 1/4 throttle and keep the RPMs up between 1,000 to 2,000 RPM for 30 to 45 seconds. Let the throttle go, it will drop low, stumble, give the throttle a few more blips and usually it will idle without stalling.

Do you notice the problem becomes less pronounced when the engine is fully warmed up?
Nah...once the truck has been started once it's fine for the day, unless it's cold out.
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Old 04-22-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosFromAbove View Post
Nah...once the truck has been started once it's fine for the day, unless it's cold out.
Same here.
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Old 04-22-2010
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Mine struggles starting sometime but its cause of a bad anti drain back valve on my fuel pump... Once it starts it runs fine... I just have to flick the key a couple times
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  #13  
Old 04-25-2010
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Replaced the fuel filter the other day...it seemed to have helped a little bit...more so with driving, it starts a tad better..not much tho.

The sad part is I could tell it has never been changed b4 as it was the stock filter and when I poured the excess crap tht was inside, it came out pure black...nasty. The guy tht owned this thing before me did the bare minimum to keep this thing in descent condition...I changed the diff. fluid on it as well and you could tell that was never changed either...not to mention the magnet at the fill hole had like a half inch of shrapnel hanging on. It's a wonder this thing made it to 106K.
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Old 04-26-2010
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Check fuel pressure.
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  #15  
Old 05-13-2010
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Seems like this is getting a little worse, I'll check the compression and re-gap the plugs before the days end.
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  #16  
Old 05-14-2010
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Checked the compression and re-gapped the spark plugs last night. Compression is good, every cylinder hit at around 150. Spark plugs were a little worn, but in good condition...I'm starting to lean more and more towards the fuel pump...

Last edited by ChaosFromAbove; 05-14-2010 at 09:39 AM.
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  #17  
Old 05-16-2010
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Well Chris (t0x1k) helped me eliminate the fuel pump as the problem...seems like it's running fine. Anyone have any other ideas?
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Old 06-15-2010
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my problem was a stuck frozen IAC get a buddy and unbolt ur little IAC there should be 2 holes under flip over ur IAC so u can see if it moves when ur buddy starts truck the hole closet to the cab if fully uncovered should kill the truck i took a IAC off a 2.9 and it fixed my problem
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